Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello, i have a r33 gtst with a few mods and are chasing around 250rwkw (or more) and have most of the supporting mods.

bigger turbo, frontmount, full exhaust, 040 pump, ebc, safc, (bigger injectors coming soon)

I realise that my safc will only be able to run a failry safe 200rwkw, and need to know wat i should get that is able to run this power.

Also say i dont get a stand alone computer will it be able to get rid of the fuel cut and boost cut?

another question is there any way of getting rid of these cuts using the standard computer?

power fc is not that cheap for a rb25 and im not that keen on getting it tuned ect. so any feedback on how e-manage systems work or other management which are good for wat im chasing is appreciated.

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/192660-engine-management-choices/
Share on other sites

I've got an Adaptronic running on mine, havent had a problem with it. Its and excellent ECU runs MAP and very tunable and great milage.

www.adaptronic.com.au

Great thing is there so cheap you can pick one up for $990 and $70 for the 2mtr loom. Also they do a plug in loom for the r33 rb25det

With any aftermarket ecu you will need to get it tuned to get the benifts of it.

Cheers

Cameron

Edited by murrayis

I like the autronics, but then again im anti airflow meter :), and they're not cheap, but the bennifs they have over other stand alone computers is worth the price, i like to have my car running as smooth as it would do with a standard comp tho, haltecs are pretty good as well from what ive heard but then again they're not the cheapest solution.

For what you want you're looking at spending a bit of money for a decent piggyback (i.e. $800 for e-manage) and several hundred for a good tune.

Go for one of the better computers, stand alone or piggyback, is my opinion.

Wolf also has a good reputation like the other guys have said.

O

Its all good and well all the posts in this thread so far.

But he said he cant even afford a PFC @ approx $1400 give or take. So that basically counts ALL the other options bar piggy-backs like

e-manage

S-AFC

etc etc

A remap *might* fit under but im not entirely sure on pricing these days.

So in relation to the above two options, for 250rwkw+ i really think your going to need more than a $600 interceptor style ECU.

You really cant get any ECU in/tuned for less than $1600 these days, so if you dont have that much to spend on decent management, then dont chase the power.

Point taken, guess i will sell my safc and start saving.

cheers

Good idea save for pfc or something simular and you wont regret it. Stuff like safc with mild mods are of for peak power but the real difference is in the midrange power and torque that you will get from a better stand alone unit like a pfc. I sold my safc and bought a pfc and car drives like a dream.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...