Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 96
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

lol!

yes they are pretty cool :) its a limited edition nismo dash with the option of sat-nav or epson ej-1 driving emotion system. they are extremely rare, they come up on yahoo-auction very rarely, and the dash normally sell upwards of 60,000yen and then you need to find the epson ej-1 system which can sell upwards of 40,000yen

the epson ej-1 system display information like, speed, rpm, g-force, power, torque, lap time, fuel eco etc etc

here some photo of mine

DSC00122.jpg

DSC00116.jpg

DSC00118.jpg

DSC00119.jpg

DSC00120.jpg

DSC00121.jpg

and some details on all the info it can display

EpsonEJ-1DashInformation.jpg

DAAYIM!! I want lol :(

awesime.... should start a group-buy for it.
Yeah, I have to agree with Police - it is mad, but looks kinda cheap - that's the only let-down but it is awesome.

It's still for sale, grab it if you really want it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Nismo-Speed...sspagenameZWD2V

f*kn make up ur mind u sheep.....just repeats wat everyone else says lol

  • 1 month later...

Hi there guys, my name is andee, I drive a series 2 4door silver 33. Naming the mods quick its low, njp coil overs, hybrid cooler and pipes, full trust exhaust system deep dish back rims running 265/40/17 and front running 225/40/17, tiny bit of boost, BUT WAIT FOR IT,,, this puppy HAS GOT THE NISMO dash cluster with epson ej1 driving ecu , i went through hell importing it by myself from japan to get this with the screen, cluster, and epson.

sadly though after the first year my screen flickered and worked intemitenly and eventually failed! i have replaced the cluster with a standerd 33 one and just fitted a 7 inch screen in the centre strip. NOW i need help if anyone knows the dp switch settings for the EJ1 Epson i would love to know them as i accidently flicked them all down and can remember the code switch settings to activate the diagnositcs, i only got the visuals on screen WITHOUT gauge, gforce, tacho movment.

heres some pics of the new Temporary screen while i desperatly try to find a cluster tv screen replacemnt

andee

ps i know the new screen might seem a little bodgie but its not done yet, theres obviously nice triming to cover the outer edges, will show the final product this week

post-48887-1205853871_thumb.jpg

post-48887-1205853887_thumb.jpg

post-48887-1205853900_thumb.jpg

post-48887-1205854320_thumb.jpg

Hi there guys, my name is andee, I drive a series 2 4door silver 33. Naming the mods quick its low, njp coil overs, hybrid cooler and pipes, full trust exhaust system deep dish back rims running 265/40/17 and front running 225/40/17, tiny bit of boost, BUT WAIT FOR IT,,, this puppy HAS GOT THE NISMO dash cluster with epson ej1 driving ecu , i went through hell importing it by myself from japan to get this with the screen, cluster, and epson.

sadly though after the first year my screen flickered and worked intemitenly and eventually failed! i have replaced the cluster with a standerd 33 one and just fitted a 7 inch screen in the centre strip. NOW i need help if anyone knows the dp switch settings for the EJ1 Epson i would love to know them as i accidently flicked them all down and can remember the code switch settings to activate the diagnositcs, i only got the visuals on screen WITHOUT gauge, gforce, tacho movment.

heres some pics of the new Temporary screen while i desperatly try to find a cluster tv screen replacemnt

andee

ps i know the new screen might seem a little bodgie but its not done yet, theres obviously nice triming to cover the outer edges, will show the final product this week

here you go, its number 28

switchzm0.jpg

The dash itself is very nice but the epson ej-1 system is a real put-off as it's rare as hell to even see one for sale. Plus wiring it up isn't an easy job too. And according to andee, his dash broke so he got a normal r33 dash. Imagine buying one for $900~1200 (doesn't come with the epson ej-1 system) and then one day kaput. lol

Edited by teng
The dash itself is very nice but the epson ej-1 system is a real put-off as it's rare as hell to even see one for sale. Plus wiring it up isn't an easy job too. And according to andee, his dash broke so he got a normal r33 dash. Imagine buying one for $900~1200 (doesn't come with the epson ej-1 system) and then one day kaput. lol

wiring up the epson ej1 is easy, took me less than 30mins, if i remember right its between 5 to 10 wires, not hard stuff :/

  • 4 weeks later...

My first post. Hello australian skyliners. Im from far counry Ukraine. My English is poor so be patient for my mistakes.

Today i've got EJ1 processor. Nismo monitor is installed in my car from a long time before. Im gonna make them together as described above but have my processor without any documentation. connection to display and DIP SW configuration is easy, remain conection to ECU. connection cabble is modified by previous owner. so there are 7 cables (orange, black, green, blue, white, gray and red).

first question is wich cable where to connect?

second is for what is EXT connection on processor?

third. there is no remote control unit in reccived paccage it might be missed. how you control the processor have any idea about using some not original rem.control?

Edited by parikmaher
My first post. Hello australian skyliners. Im from far counry Ukraine. My English is poor so be patient for my mistakes.

Today i've got EJ1 processor. Nismo monitor is installed in my car from a long time before. Im gonna make them together as described above but have my processor without any documentation. connection to display and DIP SW configuration is easy, remain conection to ECU. connection cabble is modified by previous owner. so there are 7 cables (orange, black, green, blue, white, gray and red).

first question is wich cable where to connect?

second is for what is EXT connection on processor?

third. there is no remote control unit in reccived paccage it might be missed. how you control the processor have any idea about using some not original rem.control?

Welcome Andy, Hope this helps:

EJ1_installManual.pdf

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...