Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i took my r33 to a mechanic yesterday, and he told me that my headlights arent rwc...its not because they r foggy, they r crystal clear. its because when i put on high beam, low beam goes out... wtf...

did any1 have the same problem?.. coz i asked a few of my friends, all their 33's does that and their cars are all registered....

and also my seat belts arent rwc either...because apparently, they dont have little tags on them... has anyone gotten away with that?

Edited by Charles89
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/193400-my-headlights-arent-rwc/
Share on other sites

thats how the headlights come from factory. you have to mod them yourself if you want the lows and highs to be on at the same time. the dude doesnt know what he's on about. every r33 out there should have the same thing unless the owner has modded them AFTER rwc. maybe try a mechanic that knows imports

as for your headlights being foggy, hit them up with a bit of polish/scratch x. should come up looking new and stay that way for acouple months

Sounds like the car wasnt complied correctly to me there dude.

Good on the mechanic i say, sounds like he is doing what VicRoads pay him to do/

The seatbelts MUST have tags, this proves they meet ADR Standards... which at the end of the day are going to save your life.

Lights - i believe this also is done as part of compliance and is a ADR requirement as the high beams dont light the immediate area around the front of the car that the low beams are required to do

thats how the headlights come from factory. you have to mod them yourself if you want the lows and highs to be on at the same time. the dude doesnt know what he's on about. every r33 out there should have the same thing unless the owner has modded them AFTER rwc. maybe try a mechanic that knows imports

as for your headlights being foggy, hit them up with a bit of polish/scratch x. should come up looking new and stay that way for acouple months

yea...so now im thinking of going to another mechanic to get my rwc...

Mate i had the same thing happen to me when i got the car engineered..

Its an easy fix... i'lll find u a link and send it to u tonight...

how much does it cost?...and does it really matter that much?

so if i do get a rwc with the car i got now, do u think vicroads will check the lights or seatbelts themselves?..

Ok i originally had my skyline set up with the flicking of the lights from low to high as your currently have.

The issues regarding the lights is actually a compliance issue, i think hes being strict but also legit.

To fix the lights is fairly easy if you follow the bellow instructions:

Instructions

That is the link and instructions that i used to solve this issue with my car..

Should only take u about an hour or 2 and its a fairly cheap fix.. tell u one thing ur lights will be bright as once you complete this as well..

but is it really THAT important tho?....

Drive at night in the hills/poorly lit area and you'll see why.

Again, its a compliance thing that was not done.

I would be taking the car back to the place of purchase (if you just got it) or reporting whoever complied the car as they have clearly done a dodgy job.

Also word of advise with VicRoads going over some 8000 cars in a recall for compliance checks of very recent times, your best to fix it. :D

Drive at night in the hills/poorly lit area and you'll see why.

Again, its a compliance thing that was not done.

I would be taking the car back to the place of purchase (if you just got it) or reporting whoever complied the car as they have clearly done a dodgy job.

Also word of advise with VicRoads going over some 8000 cars in a recall for compliance checks of very recent times, your best to fix it. :D

Ash is right about this..

When they re engineered my car the things that he had to change which should have been done at compliance was astounding...

Its amazing how much stuff got passed a few years back...

Hope you get it sorted.

okay this is weird my mate has an r33 my mates missus has an r33 I have an r33 and I kno of a few other people with them and none of our low beams stay on when high beams go on...weird huh?? Is this actually a roadworthy issue or a compliancing issue?? as in if I've been through compliance already im not gonna get pulled over by mr. plod and get a canary am I??

my car has all the other shit done set belt tags dimmer swith and what not but never heard of this as an issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...