Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 71
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

And the HKS dump.

Thanks to the bloke here on SAU that shared these pics with us. :D

:D Thats not a problem and my car used to suffer with boost creep, but not anymore! ;) good ole HKS

yes still R32 ecu, no probs with that at all. still got knock control, perfect idle and cruise, cant complain!

Awesome man!

You dont happen to have a copy of your .BIN file do you mate that we could use as a atarting point for my tune?

Awesome man!

You dont happen to have a copy of your .BIN file do you mate that we could use as a atarting point for my tune?

No sorry, Jeff (The Speed Lab) does all my tuning, so you'd have to call him up and ask for a copy of the map, either way he'd be able to help you out. Number is in my sig

No sorry, Jeff (The Speed Lab) does all my tuning, so you'd have to call him up and ask for a copy of the map, either way he'd be able to help you out. Number is in my sig

No worries man, I am in NZ! ha ha

Hopefully i can achieve a similar sort of result to what you got. Well done bro.

By the way how did you do about your VCT control? I have made my own controller which allows me to set on and off points. Seems to work well.

  • 1 month later...

Hey, I found a 3071 on the net for sale that is direct bolt up to RB25's.

Compressor Housing A/R -: 0.70a/r

Turbine Housing A/R -: 1.06a/r

Does this sound capable of 280rwkw?

Hey, I found a 3071 on the net for sale that is direct bolt up to RB25's.

Compressor Housing A/R -: 0.70a/r

Turbine Housing A/R -: 1.06a/r

Does this sound capable of 280rwkw?

With supporting mods, a 3071 should be capable of reaching that power figure with that type of housing. Interestingly though, its usually sold with a 0.5 comp a/r.

Anyway, that turbo should be capable (given its garret IW - with that turb housing it should be), but always remember that the peak power figure your dyno says at the end of the day isnt everything. A 1.06 housing is pretty big. I dont know of that many dyno sheets around here to look at for the 3071, but my guess is that u might experience a bit of lag & a highish boost threshold.

If thats ok with you though, go for it, and let us know the results =)

Hey, I found a 3071 on the net for sale that is direct bolt up to RB25's.

Compressor Housing A/R -: 0.70a/r

Turbine Housing A/R -: 1.06a/r

Does this sound capable of 280rwkw?

what you should be asking is "does this sound like a 3071" because is doesn't.

I'd be interested to see a link.

i will most likely be purchasing a gt3071r 0.64 IW tomorrow for my r33 gtst for about $2600 (through my mechanic ordering direct from gcg, inclusive of fitting kit, spacer etc). was going to get a hks gt-rs but they're fairly expensive and take ages for delivery. will post up results once it's tuned, hopefully it meets my responsive 260rwkw goal :)

check the size of the turbine housing mate.

.64 is gt28 size IW housing. .63 is gt30. I know it sounds like i'm being pedantic, but for 2600 you want the right one and not the t2 flanged nugget. It shouldn't need a spacer with the .5a/r compressor housing if it has the right turbine housing

Incidentally. Direct quote from GCG for the proper one last week was 2,450 inc the fitting kit but i do the rotating of the housing and install turbine and actuator and shit like that. Pick up. Doesnt include gaskets

yeah, straight turbo price was 2150. You're paying an extra 200 for the actuator and bracket straight up and there's a premium on the proper garrett IW housing too.

It's not significantly higher than an online seller though and the fact that they are 20 minutes from home is an advantage when the shit hits the fan (if it ever does). consider an ex gate 3076 goes for an average of 1800 these days and it's not far off the mark.

I guess if they're close to home that might be a bonus for you...

ive been looking around myself to buy within the next couple of weeks... ATP quotes (in US dollars) around $1450 plus $95 shipping to your door. Converting that to Australian dollars gives around $1730 Aus delivered to your door. And thats with the proper garret IW housing (0.63 im going for with a 2.75" inlet diameter in case anyone is interested in similar).

Get a fitting kit local from somewhere and you're looking at about $2000.

I haven't bought anything just yet, still looking. Anyone else's hunting experience is welcome.

GCG definitely aren't the cheapest but from a few warranty claims I've heard of they are definitely offer a no fuss warranty.

They can be picked up for around $1800ish with actuator but you do have to shop around. On occasions MTQ have specials on the gt30 and gt35's which sees them down around that price.

What do CRD do the GT30 IW for? Last I checked they were fairly well priced.

sorry typo, meant to say .63. i agree, i thought the price was a bit steep when i spoke to my mechanic, gonna go in tomorrow and have a chat to him. i was thinking the total figure for it to be a bolt on job would be around $2300. but if it really is $2600 for the whole kit, i might decline and just buy an hks gt-rs for $2900 from slide.

oh and there's no way i'll be dealing with CRD, had a couple of really bad experiences with them

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...