Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 100
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

bought this game on ps2.... was so shit. i couldnt believe how crap it was. took it back bought it on pc.

much better but still shit. the drifting involves no skill. its horrible. and racing is boring.

Get Forza 2 on 360. s15 or skyline (modified), turn off traction... and drift.

Anyone else HATE nervada? Worst tracks EVER. The AI is no contest it's keeping the bastard on the road that's the problem.

I keep winning damn stage 4 parts for my R34 instead of R35 track and for my 350Z instead of Z06 drag (hard to keep straight when the front never touches the ground hmm).

I agree pro street is garbage,the best games for drift are gran Turismo 3 and forza 1.

Im still trying to get the hang of Forza 2,but the cars seem to spin to easy,either you spin or you drift with hardly any angle.

In GT3 i can get basically 90 degrees worth of angle in a drift,and drift entire coarses without spining,makes for great replays lol.

If only they brought out a drifting game with the graphics and game speeed of say GT5 and the car control and handling of GT3. Still waiting.

I hate games where you cant free rev a car while engaging the handbrake,kind of a clutch kicking affect.

If only they brought out a drifting game with the graphics and game speeed of say GT5 and the car control and handling of GT3. Still waiting.

I hate games where you cant free rev a car while engaging the handbrake,kind of a clutch kicking affect.

d1gp 2005 on PS2?

i beat the drift king, and the drag king, couldnt win a high speed for the life of me, even in a god damn 800- horespower lamborghini, i was being beaten by a friggin 400 hp civic. it also handled like ass lol.

so i beat ryo, and won 300 thou, sold all my cars but one, and bought the zonda. it is insane. its like a slot car going around corners. level four everything, 900 odd hp, over 1000 Nm of tourque... beats everything in site....

now i gotta get wnough money up to buy a grip and drift car lol

This game sucked balls. I didn't realise that it was pretty much track racing. "Taking street racing of the streets"...the blurb says once you install it.

I was hoping for something like Underground/Carbon. Even the first need for speed (love the DOS era games) was street racing.

i beat the drift king, and the drag king, couldnt win a high speed for the life of me, even in a god damn 800- horespower lamborghini, i was being beaten by a friggin 400 hp civic. it also handled like ass lol.

so i beat ryo, and won 300 thou, sold all my cars but one, and bought the zonda. it is insane. its like a slot car going around corners. level four everything, 900 odd hp, over 1000 Nm of tourque... beats everything in site....

now i gotta get wnough money up to buy a grip and drift car lol

Zonda F should be 1018hp, check your tuning, unless you haven't upgraded it.

The big problem with nfs is its way too arcade needs much more GT style gameplay

No the problem is they couldn't decide what they want from an NFS game so now it's somewhere in the middle. I don't get all those riding GT's nuts though, if you can drive a car with a thumbstick it's not all that realistic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...