Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i have used mark for a long time now and they are the only ones that touch my car he is also a very good friend of mine there is always good cars there but even if there isnt that doesnt mean that the work isnt good yes he does all the work on christians car but mostly thats after hours and sometime he is closed for races but not often he's in america right now but the shop is open martin is tuning and a guy named ben does all the other work

Yeh i heard over the last few days that they have been tuning on an uncalibrated dyno, i alos heard about unsatisfied staff. Just wanted to know if its hearsay or fact.

I suppose its all irrelevant if boostworx are cheaper and do better work.

Yeh i heard over the last few days that they have been tuning on an uncalibrated dyno, i alos heard about unsatisfied staff. Just wanted to know if its hearsay or fact.

I suppose its all irrelevant if boostworx are cheaper and do better work.

Well thier decent engine builder left there to go to JMS, and now he's on the move again i think to Wheelworx!!

All i know is it seems you need to know them or know someone that knows them!!

BOOSTWORX FTW!!

word around says that tillbrooks has a bad rep for blowing cars up on the dyno. i was going to take mine there last time for a tune and i had at least half a dozen people tell me not to.

whats peoples thoughts on morpowa?

ive heard good things about tilbrooks and morpowa, but havnt heard any bad about morpowa yet i dont think, but yeh heard a few things about tillbrooks but u can never be sure whats just bs. depends where u live really, if u live north of the city morpowa is probably easier for u, if u live south of the city boostworx is probably the go.

My car is tuned by Morpowa. Simon seems good, I've got a problem with a knock sensor at the moment and he didn't hesitate to run it up on the dyno and then on the street to check it out FREE OF CHARGE. He said that i had paid for a tune and it's gotta be right. Turns out the tune was right but the knock sensor was/is faulty.

I'm happy :P

Morpowa are good & they have more workers so will generally get things done quicker (although not always for the better) but, comes at a higher $$rate. Since swapping over 16mths ago & converting several mates to BoostWorx we've found Shaun a lot more proficient with the tuning side of things (ECU's, EBC & other electronics) than Simon/ Andrew. Only prob with BW is they should be up more North way considering Troy & Shaun live up this way :).

I can recommend morpowa also. Boostworx are my first choice for tuning especially and I'll hopefully be booking my car in there soon for a 100,000km service.

However, being out north I have been to morpowa several times, mainly just for regular servicing - since they have an auto trans specialist right next door and you can book into morpowa for a service and get the auto trans serviced at the same time and morpowa handle the whole lot so its just one transaction and your car is off the road for just one day. Their prices are quite good and I've been happy with their work.

i have just my car done by tilbrooks and they did an awesome job on the car....its gone a lot smoother then before....so my experience with tilbrooks has been a good one and mark the owner does look after you well....

as for morpowa my mate used to get his car serviced there and his car was just a pain to drive.....and they never figured the problem out so he took it to tilbrooks and they sorted it all out for him and now that thing boots.....

boostworx never been there as it is way down south and bit too fair for me.....but i have heard of a lot of good things about them and will get my ecu tuned down there as they are apparently the best in tunning...

AAA+++ for Boostworx Great Blokes & Awesome Tunning,

First time i ever got my car tunned i booked in it at TillBrooks, when i turned up the guy i wont mention any names wasnt even there and they didnt know anything about the tune, plus they said it was going to cost me $600 for a tune & i would have to wait till the afternoon and it was 8am???

So i went straight off to Boostworx and was really impressed with there service :(, great price 1/4 of that and car went great!

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...