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this is driving me nuts... i cant get anything onto the flare nut for the oil feed for my turbo as theres NO room at all... i cut and modded a spanner to try and get it in there but with no luck, i thought about cutting a ring end spanner to try and slip that on but there doesnt look like enough room for the spanner to move...

Heres a pic... what do you reckon??

I thought about using a banjo bolt but its an inverted flare fitting in the garret core.

pb170131nz5.th.jpg

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ahh fun!! I have no idea as i have never encountered this before but as bigger pain in the arse it would be, would removing the compressor side of the turbo be possible with the exhaust side still fitted up? If so could pull it off then do the bolt up the reinstall the compressor cover....

u wont be able to remove the backin of the comp cover.. the comp wheels is infront of it. and dont u even think about removing the wheels.. those things r perfectly balanced.. u take the wheel off and move it .1mm outta place and ull f**k ur turbo up in no time...

there is also a spanner you can use like the ring spanner but with a bit cut out

Its called a flare nut spanner, but if he cant get an open-ender in there, there's bugger all chance a flare nut spanner will be any better. They tend to be a bit chunkier than a ring spanner to compensate for the cut.

Call the Snap-On man and get one of these to suit :ermm: ( sorry aout the crappy pic ).

post-2420-1195360128_thumb.jpg

Edit. The technical term for the 2 on the right ( what you need ) is a 1/4" drive, 7/16" ( or 3/8" etc ) 12 point, thin walled crows foot.

I bought a short ring spanner from supercheap; chopped it down a little, cut a slot in to the end so I could get past the bundy tube and then ground down the sides of the spanner so it fit in to the position. Cost me $1.

go and buy a deep socket. and cut out the walls of the socket like in my crappy pic :P then cut out the botton of the socket (the nut/bolt end) like you said you where going to do with the ring spanner. hope you understand my drawing??? i've had to do this before at work on a hyrdolic manifold block with limited space.

post-34711-1195450139_thumb.jpg

go and buy a deep socket. and cut out the walls of the socket like in my crappy pic :P then cut out the botton of the socket (the nut/bolt end) like you said you where going to do with the ring spanner. hope you understand my drawing??? i've had to do this before at work on a hyrdolic manifold block with limited space.

post-34711-1195450139_thumb.jpg

thats a pretty brilliant idea, cheers will do that.

Beer Baron: i have some in my tool box but they dont fit as theres limited room between the nut and the housing

Personally I'd just get the right sized open ended spaniard and heat it up to cherry red and bend it 90 degrees . Try to keep the bend as close as possible to the head so that the shank is not too far off the flare nuts centre in tight spaces .

By any chance is that a Hitachi or non std housing on a Garrett BB cartridge ?

Cheers A .

Personally I'd just get the right sized open ended spaniard and heat it up to cherry red and bend it 90 degrees . Try to keep the bend as close as possible to the head so that the shank is not too far off the flare nuts centre in tight spaces .

By any chance is that a Hitachi or non std housing on a Garrett BB cartridge ?

Cheers A .

Disco.. The biggest problem I found is with the core's oil feed/return positioned directly up and down the turbine housing bolt is smack next to the oil inlet.

So You try to get a spanner on it but the sides of the spanner foul the bolt. Only way is to grind the side of a ring spanner down to next to nothing. It has to be a ring spanner with fine teeth as an open ended doesn't allow fine enough grabs.

Damn Garrett and their small width GT Cores. :no:

Its not that hard once you get a tool made up.

I'll grab some pics of my doobylacker ring spanner. later.. I had a quick look I can't find it :wub:

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