Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Just had my highflow r34 turbo blow up and dont want another one so im in the market for a new turbo setup. I've looked at peoples results with the 2530 but want something with more punch and top end.

My car is primarily used for drifting and I already have all the supporting mods.

Who has TD06 kits on their rb20s and which types?

is the 20g kit too laggy? Worth the price tag? Any other turbo suggestions?

Thanks Guys,

Stuart

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/194267-td06-kits-on-rb20/
Share on other sites

L2-20G is the go on rb20 for drift and time attack, be aware we have sold around 6 kits over the last 3months so expect to see a fair few on the circuit next year :D

i will post up some dyno graphs for you.

L2-20G is the go on rb20 for drift, be aware we have sold around 6 kits over the last 3months so expect to see a fair ew on the circuit next year :O

As Trent said look at the L2-20G Stu, you wont regret it, only have to look through the Top RB20 thread and see peeps like Troy and Adam and the results.

My car will be running soon so your welcome to drive that to gauge the amount of lag with a similar set up that you would be looking at :D

WIll a TD06-25g be good for an RB25?

Looking at around 300rwkw or would it be best to go the TD07?

td07 is a old T78.... to big, you will see high 400's with a T78. Td06-25g will make 300 depending on housing size. Have a look in the exhaust housing inlet for a number there will be a number between 8-16... this is the exh size in cm2. personally i would use a T67 10cm as i get 280rwkw out of the 8cm T67 on a Rb25 and it makes .7bar as early as 3000rpm!!!! fkn responsive with strong top end.

L2-20G is the go on rb20 for drift and time attack, be aware we have sold around 6 kits over the last 3months so expect to see a fair few on the circuit next year :O

i will post up some dyno graphs for you.

Thanks for that Trent, some graphs would be good! what is rrp on the L2?

I'm not running aftermarket cams or cam gears at this stage...and was told the TD06S-20 might be more suited? thoughts?

As Trent said look at the L2-20G Stu, you wont regret it, only have to look through the Top RB20 thread and see peeps like Troy and Adam and the results.

My car will be running soon so your welcome to drive that to gauge the amount of lag with a similar set up that you would be looking at :D

Thanks Ben, give me a shout when you've got it on the road!

I may look for something else then.

Im after 260 - 280rwkw with this round of mods but end goal is 340 - 360rwkw

I dont want to upgrade turbo again with the next round of mods

Do a search for Bu5ter. He used to run a TD06SH-25G for 330rwkws odd. Made very strong power and car ran 11s.

As for the 20G and RB20. Can someone explain to me the difference with the L2S? My thoughts are the 20G is just about right for the RB20, just bolt it all up and go.

If its true that there are going to be a few more at the tracks next year then i may again get motivated. Its no fun when there isnt anyone out there to play with, and i cant get within cooee of the GTR guys :D

^^ yeah the TD06SH-25g is differrent than the TD06-25g but, the SH will go 10's on slicks (MSA/CREATD 5spd) and 11's on radials as youve posted here is a kit CREATD used on thier workshop car.. just shy of 300rwkw at 1.0bar from memory

http://www.creatdmotorsports.com.au/galler...hp?g2_itemId=34

I may look for something else then.

Im after 260 - 280rwkw with this round of mods but end goal is 340 - 360rwkw

I dont want to upgrade turbo again with the next round of mods

this is two totally different behaving turbos a 360rwkw rb20 is going to be useless to drift as its going to be laggy as all shite and run big boost, 260-280rwkw is easy with a L2 but 300rwkw is a pipe dream. T67 will get 340rwkw but need boost and rpm to do it, all enemys of dorri.

you need to decide drift or dyno queen as the two NEVER work together. regardless of turbo brand or people promise.

ok back to my poor little rb20 snotter now :D I want to see peoples results

LOL...if you do a search there are a few around. I only say that as ppl are probably sick to death of me posting my dyno sheet :O

gallery_462_50_59282.jpg

Completely Std RB20, cam gears, Power Fc and GTR injectors with Z32 AFM annd complete Greddy TD06-20G setup using an 8cm rear housing. I previously made 234rwkws with this setup. Having another look at the tune netted me the extra 26rwkws, just by removing what i guess was soem of the fat from the tune. Thats not to say the tune is now a grenade, as i have done soem track days and a 3 day motorskhana/track event in it where the car had to endure me anda co-driver....so the tune is still very reliable

LOL...if you do a search there are a few around. I only say that as ppl are probably sick to death of me posting my dyno sheet :O

gallery_462_50_59282.jpg

Completely Std RB20, cam gears, Power Fc and GTR injectors with Z32 AFM annd complete Greddy TD06-20G setup using an 8cm rear housing

That curve is really quite good! I thought it would be way more laggy! I would have the exact same mods minus cam gears as well. If I start a 2 minute noodle diet right now I could probably afford one for christmas. :D

URAS :D

doh :P rb20 thread with a rb25 infiltrator... f**ked with my head.

T67 10cm or 12cm td06-25g still wont cut it 300rwkw ish maxed, if it is actually a sh-25g 330rwkw is ok.

Below is a R32 RB20 dyno graph. 1.2bar on std rb20 231 corrected rwkw (engine kw is the scale on the graph with more boost) pay no attention to the shape as their scales make it look laggy when actually its really not (the L2 and 06S are very much the same only the L2 is more effecient at higher boost up top.... less roll off). i have also attached a dyno graph of the TD06s-20g on a RB20 you can see it mirrors roys setup only as it runs less boost it only makes 248.8kw

another option is a HKS 2835 56t with 0.61 housing, this works extremely well and i have used these in SR and RB config. (james vahoumis bought my SR HKS 2835 kit and used it in his championship winning s14.5) both Bai and the other D1 drivers prefferred the L2 (like myself) over it though. i also spent alot of time in james cefiro with the HKS 2535 and it was killer street/hills drift but is just too small for serious track drift, 2530's just too damn small.

post-34927-1195449903_thumb.jpg

post-34927-1195450691_thumb.jpg

Tazz - there is a massive thread on it all.

Results, turbos and all the bells and whistles from various users.

If you dont read this thread:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/To...60r-t58229.html

Your doing yourself great harm :P

Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated....

I've been fed a few more options from people...so who has used the 3071R on a 20? It looks like a cheaper option...but would it be too laggy even with the smaller exhaust housing? or worth spending the extra money for the L2 kit and be done with it?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks everyone for the replies and suggestions. Got the seats out (hoping I could find some existing grommets but no such luck). By tapping and measuring etc. I could figure out where I could drill through if needed. But first I borrowed an inspection camera and managed to go through factory holes in the chassis rail and could see that the captive nut was holding steady which is why it could retighten. So it was indeed a stripped section of thread, so I applied downforce by levering the bolt head with a screwdriver and went slowly back and forth until it came out. Camera helped a lot cos I could monitor that the captive nut was holding tight. Now I just have one very seized main subframe nut to tackle 😅
    • BOVs do have a purpose, if you ever log pressure before and after the throttle body, you will see a spike pre throttle on lift off from a WOT condition. Enough to bend throttle blades / damage e-throttle motors or simple assist in blowing off cooler pipes. FWIW, the above on really applies to those running at least 2 bar of boost. OP shouldn't have an issue, on the other hand, here are some videos of my shit box over a decade ago with some succulent dose with the airbox on and off. That shit box is unrecognisable these days 🫠    
    • I've tried all different combinations of BOVs/ no BOV and stock bypass valves over the years, on gear changes the stock bypass valve seems to get the car back on boost quicker because in part the turbos wheel speed isn't being slowed down by reversion, although they have issues holding boost much over the stock setting. Most aftermarket BOVs you can adjust the spring, tighter will make it open later and close sooner, but in my experience it'll cause a bit of flutter at low load/rpm anyway. I've also got some input into this whole no bov causing turbo wear, never had an issue on any on my turbos HOWEVER, I got my R33 GTST with 200k kms on it, with from what I can see still has the original turbo, no lateral shaft play but has about 4-5mm of play in and out which to me seems like a worn thrust bearing from years (100-150k kms?) of turbo flutter running no bov, so maybe there is some truth to it in the long run. But that'll never stop me loving the Stutututu while I have the car.   OP just wants to know if he can run a atmo vented BOV with no major issues and the answer is YES, plenty of people do it, there's no harm in installing it and seeing how it runs before spending $$$ on an aftermarket ecu, last time I bought a Nistune it was $2400 for install and a tune , unsure of todays prices but you get me. Crazy money to spend just to fix the minor inconvenience of stalling that can be overcome by letting the revs come down to near idle before putting the clutch in or a little bit of throttle to avoid it. You're better off leaving the ecu and tune for after a bigger turbo/injectors have been installed to take full advantage of the tune and get your moneys worth.   Let OP have his Whoosh sound without trying to break his bank haha
    • I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...
    • But they do so for the other reasons to have a compressor bypass. It's in the name.
×
×
  • Create New...