Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, the turbo on my 33 died today, warmed it up got 20m down the road barely changed to second gear and bam knock knock knock :) . Didnt even hit boost (i dont hit boost until its at full operating tremperature) Guess i'll be without a car for a few weeks as i can't afford another turbo right now. It was only on 10psi too, so really, there is no safe limit, it's touch and go 82000 kms on the odo. Does anyone have ANY spare turbo for sale that would bolt on? :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19523-turbo-died-today/
Share on other sites

I've now clocked 130,000km's. I've been running 15-16psi for over a year now and have done around 30,000km's last year.

Just luck of the draw I guess.

When I had the turbo off the ceramic blades did look like they had hairline fractures but 20,000km's later and its still running.

Couldn't you manually disconnet the wastegate and jam it fully open so the exhaust well most of the exhaust gasses bypass the turbine in turn allowing you to drive it around until you get the new terd?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19523-turbo-died-today/#findComment-410756
Share on other sites

If your ceramic turbo has blown, there should be nothing left of the turbine wheel and then there would be no need to do the waste gate thing u mentioned JOEL.

The easyest way i rekon to tell is to unbolt your turbo down pipe and look inside your turbo where the turbine wheel should be, if theres nothing there then it's deffenitly crapped out.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19523-turbo-died-today/#findComment-412668
Share on other sites

have you had a look at the turbo area?

are you sure that you are not missing bolts of the exhaust or other flanges causing the turbo to knock against the other metals?

as mentioned.

a blown turbo wouldn't make a knocking sound..

and why would your turbo blow when you are driving off boost and at like 20 km/h

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19523-turbo-died-today/#findComment-413204
Share on other sites

I rang a mechanic up and asked him about it, he said it sounds like the exhaust wheel has come off and is rattling around. He said it was possible that something happened while it was cooling down in my garage the night before and stuffed up when it got running that day. I don't know too muh about internals of a turbo so i'll just take his word for it as i can't get the car anywhere to get checked out. I want a bigger turbo anyway so now's as good a time as any to get one.

Hmm anyone know all the HP limits for my stock engine?

the injectors (with good fuel pump), gearbox, how much boost before its dangerous to internals etc.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19523-turbo-died-today/#findComment-413452
Share on other sites

Well i must have the strongest factory RB20 turbo in OZ.

On Monday i did a little over 35 minutes (approx 28 laps) in the one session running 0.85bar of boost at Wakefield.

The car did not sit idle by the side of the track for more then 45-60 minutes without at least a 20min blast around the track. Every 7-8 laps would have to slow for a lap to get tyre temps back so the car handled reasonable.

Other then that the car was driven all day whilst shifting at about 5,500-6,000rpm, trying to get quick some consistant laps. (im only kidding myslef, my pace was far from quick, and laps far from consistant...but i was trying);)

I was oh so proud to have clocked the magical 150,000 km mark whilst on the track. The only downer on the day is that i now have an exhaust leak, from a gasket, too many sheared manifold studs???? Will have to wait and see.

But my point, the turbo is still in one piece.:P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19523-turbo-died-today/#findComment-414336
Share on other sites

hhmm...I wouldn't only call one mechanic and trust what he says, especially if what he says lines him up for a job of $200 - $300 at least. I guess the easiest way to check would be to jump back in your car, warm it up and then go for a fang - if it gets on boost, then it's working, if it says well under 0 manifold pressure then it's obviously not making boost and wheel very well may have fallen off.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19523-turbo-died-today/#findComment-415193
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That R31 was so cool. Only did Orange Park once. Scared the hell out of me.
    • Selling my TE37SLs since I've switched to smaller wheels.  They're for sale in Japan but it's pretty simple to send them overseas; USA excluded, since JPPost isn't sending there at the moment. Specs Front: 18x9.5j +22 5x114 Rear: 18x10j +20 5x114 Price: 320,000 JPY/ 3,285 AUD (current FX rate) Condition: a few scratches here and there, no bends, distortions or cracks.  Tires will not be included for international buyers, I'll get them dismounted before shipping. They're currently listed on yahoo auction and will be shipped in Japan with the tires if they sell here. Shipping costs to Aus: EMS (1-2 weeks): AUD 1,175 (current FX rate) Sea (2 months): AUD 460  (current FX rate)
    • The alloy coolant reservoir has a sight glass, so as long as I can see coolant in the sight glass it's GTG, as for PS, it isn't anything catastrophic if it gets low, and as it hasn't lost a drop since I have owned the car I cannot see it being an issue, even after putting the "big block" 2.5 in....LOL The only time it gets slightly messy is at oil changes, as the oil filter sits above the frame, and I need to use a plastic bottle with its bottom cut off to catch the flow when loosening the filter
    • Good on you for taking on the job, but it is a big one. Even if you have bolt on manifold and turbo, you will need: Post throttle pressure source to boost controller to wastegate (and FPR, and ECU/MAP sensor) Pre throttle pressure source to top of BOV(s) Oil feed - you can take that from the standard port in the middle of the block Oil return to block under the turbo - this is much trickier than it seems to route a decent/wide pipe past the manifold. You really can't use rubber hose because it is way too hot there, and also the oil out of the turbo core is a bit frothy so it needs to have a decent diameter Water feed - you can take that from the standard port in the rear of the block. Water return - mine runs to a T into the heater box return, just make sure you don't create a high point making bleeding hard. All of those lines should use 200 series style teflon braided hose with heat shielding because everything needs to be routed past the manifold. Also a turbo beanie is a really good idea to minimise the chance of the car catching fire (under bonnet lining in particular) You also need to decide a cam cover breathing solution as well, will you vent externally via a catch can (probably illegal) or return to the intake (plumbing required and can oil up everything over time) Keep in mind the intake and exhaust piping in the engine bay will be custom so you either need to be able to fab ally and steel or have someone you can get a car that isn't running to. Get the wideband fitting welded into the dump pipe at the same time. Also, just my opinion, a screamer pipe attracts attention and doesn't add power, I'd plumb it back if you want to be allowed to keep the car on the road. BTW do you know anything about how healthy the motor is, and what power you are targeting? Doubling or tripling the factory power on an unknown motor is a little risky. Also fuel system will need some attention (pumps, high current hanger, direct power and earth feed, injectors etc)
    • Wrinkle black will be a thing for both
×
×
  • Create New...