Jump to content
SAU Community

Brake Rotor Life

Willo
 Share

Recommended Posts

Willo Proficient

Willo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
absolutely nothing like that mate.

were they new?

what brand rotors?

what brand pads?

do you know what temps they got to?

Yeah, details might help.

Not new but near new.

Grex rotors (which means probably Alcon)

Grex pads, not exactly sure of the compound but they make a lot of dust.

Can't tell you temps. I do know a few other people (mainly Evos) use Alcon brakes as well and don't have these issues.

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted

Are you sure they are alcons? There is grex stuff that isn't alcon.

I'm using DBA5000 with stock Brembo rotors on my GTR... I've done about 6 track days and a year of daily driving on them, and still only showing minimal wear. Run DS3000 pads for the track. Have also done about a year of daily driving on them with DS2500 pads. My setup gets very hot on the track, estimating up around 700-800 deg C.

Marlin Grand Master

Marlin

Posted
Posted

Geeeez! That's some hard-core wear. Without knowing exact brand and product numbers, it's a little hard to say, but it's fairly obvious there's a serious mis-match of pad and rotor hardness. ie, either the pad's too hard, or the rotor's an inferior softy.

As for your ongoing "soft" pedal issue, sure this amazing wear rate could have something to do with it, but have you also considered your rubber brake lines?

Willo Proficient

Willo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Geeeez! That's some hard-core wear. Without knowing exact brand and product numbers, it's a little hard to say, but it's fairly obvious there's a serious mis-match of pad and rotor hardness. ie, either the pad's too hard, or the rotor's an inferior softy.

As for your ongoing "soft" pedal issue, sure this amazing wear rate could have something to do with it, but have you also considered your rubber brake lines?

Brake lines are braided and have AP Racing fluid.

When I searched for the brake pad model number before putting them on the closest I came up with was the Grex street/circuit compound but this doesn't list any further details about temperature range, friction or hardness.

So it is possible to have a soft rotor? Either way, I wouldn't think a pad could chew through a rotor in 5 laps? Is there anything that can cause a rotor to go "off" (heat cycles, insufficient warm up, bedding etc.)?

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

there is something seriously wrong if you went from new rotors to worn out in 5 laps. did you measure rotor thickness before you fitted them (you should have)? what was it? what is it at now?

even with seized calipers you would be hard pressed to go through a set of rotors in 5 laps.

Willo Proficient

Willo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
there is something seriously wrong if you went from new rotors to worn out in 5 laps. did you measure rotor thickness before you fitted them (you should have)? what was it? what is it at now?

even with seized calipers you would be hard pressed to go through a set of rotors in 5 laps.

Before they had little to no wear. I haven't measured after but obviously they are down the depth of the slots.

ferni Grand Master

ferni

Posted
Posted
do you mean stock brembo calipers, ferni? :nyaanyaa:

Opps, yes Stock brembo calipers, not rotors sorry.

If i were you willo, i'd be trying a different set of rotors and pads... not that you have much choice... try to stay away from whatever it is you have now :nyaanyaa:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...