Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

I pulled into the petrol station today to fill up (after a 80k freeway drive, mostly doing 110kph), and was about to shut the engine off.

It suddenly started making a real loud knocking/banging noise, and idling rough. It sounds like the noise is coming from the top of the engine, but i can feel it through the clutch pedal.

The things ive checked so far are the oil and coolant, which are in perfect condition.

The spark plugs are in mint condition.

I had a look at the pistons with torch and they look excelent too

I pulled the cam cover off the intake side(which is where the noise sounds like its coming from) and everything looked to be in order.

the only mods i have are a pair of pods, and a cam gear. car is driven daily, but not thrashed daily (although it copped a fair bit saturday). Oil changed every 6000ish k's, and its always run on ultimate 98. Its never caused any problems in the 2 years ive had it.

When you crank the engine it doesnt make the noise, only when it fires up.

im thinking the timing belt has slipped a tooth, the cam gear has loosend, or there is some serious bottom end bearing damage.

I know its hard diagnose problems over the web, but any ideas would be great.

thanks heaps,

steve

Edited by PHATR32

Big guess to say it's slipped a tooth. How olds the belt in it?

I wouldnt think a big end knock (bearing issue) would cause it do idle funny...

Could be the other way around. If the cars missing (usual AFM, AAC etc) the piston can do funny things when it goes over TDC and doesn't fire. It can knock about... thats possibly what your hearing.

Sorry I'm no real help, just some thought :)

try and issolate a cylinder if possible. depends how harsh the noice is, wouldnt wana cause any more damge. however by issolating the cylinder your in the general direction. could be a collapsed lifter?

they actually have solid lifters and naturally have fairly loud heads.

My mates GTR had simular noise, sounded like it was in the top of the head etc etc etc, turned out to be a bottom end bearing spun. worst case scenario and for your sake i hope its not.

well i took off the cam cover from the other side (exhaust) and it looks fine, also the timing belt is fine and the markings are exact. the adjustable cam gear also hasnt moved from 0.

i turned the engine over a few times by hand and found it gets stuck when cylinders 3 and 4 are at TDC (or there abouts).

it will turn over bout 2 or 3 times and id feel slight hesiation (cyl 3 and 4 TDC) then on the next turn it would get stuck to the point where id have to give it a bit of force to keep it turning.

Ive checked the belt incase theres a rock or something in one of the teeth but i found nothing.

the tapping noise is REALLY loud btw, but i havnt reved it over 1k, only idled it for a few seconds.

steve

Im very new to skylines and this is probably wrong but thought i'd throw it out there for the hell of it

My brothers r32 (rb20) started making a really loud tapping/knocking noise a couple of days ago, would rise with revs and sounded like it was from one of the front cylinders. It actually turned out to be the clutch on the fan had given up and was making the racket. Its easy enough to test cause you can just slip the belt off and see if the noise goes.

My 2c worth

*Edit* After reading your latest post, probably not what im suggesting...

Edited by Scottydoo

lol, i got shit in my wallet......

when i push the clutch in it still makes the noise, that said, i could definetly feel the banging through the clutch.

although, the clutch wouldnt screw up exactly when pistons 3 and 4 are TDC.

i do all the work my self, of course if the engine requires rebuilding ill have to get a pro to do it as i dont want to risk screwing it up etc.

ill do a compression test tonight to see if itll show anything?

steve

Edited by PHATR32

hey guys,

i just ran a cold compression test and all cylinders were between 135psi - 140psi except for cylinder 3 which is at 45psi!

as mensioned above when i turned the crank by hand it would get stuck when cyls 3 and 4 would hit TDC.

so i pulled the cams off and took off the lifters on cylinder 3. it all looks ok, and the valves move in when i apply force. How can i tell if a valve guide has dropped?

im gonna have to pull the engine out either ways but would anyone have any idea on what could be causing the banging and low compression?

thanks guys,

steve

Edited by PHATR32
  • 2 weeks later...

well, ive been pull the engine bay apart these past few afternoons, and found the pipe that controlls the wastegate actuators had come undone!!

weird thing is i hadnt noticed any increase in boost?? that said, i do have a stock exhaust.....

engine will be out and apart this weekend hopefully.......

i would put money on a spun big end bearing!

i know that sound well, sorry to hear that.

most the time when a big end bearing starts to go , it sounds like it's coming from the top.

russ

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...