Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys and gals.......

i just bought my new r34 4 door its running a r33 series 2 engine and drivetrain and mechanical lsd

I have got a t04z with a .7 housing on it and reall just upgrade every thing from ignition microtect lt10 computer fuel pumps injectors and a list of other stuff the only internal is a better head gasket........

wat would be the next thing to do im pushing 310kw at the rears on 17.1psi on a cold night at the dyno on 98 octane fuel. boost comes on around about 4 grand some people hate the lag but i just love how angry it is to drive:)

i was thinking maybe cams any help would be great

thanks

Edited by Camo34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/
Share on other sites

t04z and only running 17psi??? they dont come into there efficacy rating to about 24psi and over you could make more power with better response with a smaller turbo.... lol.

Yes go some cams, front facing plenum, and FORGIES. You should be able to make a lot more just by winding the boost up more.

Is it school holidays yet???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/#findComment-3512901
Share on other sites

lol settle guys, this guy is legit and is in my town.

Thats a bit strange though, only 310rwkw at 17psi on a TO4Z, which is capable of much more.

I run 314rwkw at 19psi, on a GT3076 - which makes almost the same curve as a 300rwkw NA V8 here, and plenty of torque (700nm at 3200rpm all the way to the limiter)

And why is there a R33 RB25 and drivetrain in there? There is nothing wrong with the Neo engine - The neo engines are actually better because they come equipped with GTR Rods, which are much bigger than the standard RB25 rods. So they are much stonger.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/#findComment-3513055
Share on other sites

curently i have

RB25DET 5 speed manual R33 motor and drivetrain motor has done 90 000kms

FMIC with custom stainless steel piping

GARRETT T04Z turbo with .7ar rear

custom stainless steel high mount manifold

TURBOSMART 38mm ultragate external gate

SPLITFIRE coil packs

MICROTECH LT10 engine management with 3 bar map sensor

EXEDY 5 puk sprung centre ceramic clutch

full custom stainless steel 3" exhaust + stainless steel screamer

custom stainless steel intake pipe

SARD 550cc injectors with collars

GREDDY type RS bov

MALPASSI rising rate adjsutable fuel pressure regulator

WALBRO hi flow fuel pump

GATES racing timing belt and water pump

BOOST FX short shifter GREDDY PROFEC E01 electronic bosot controller with LCD display

big brake upgrade with braided lines

GAB coilovers

rear camber arms

B&M oil filter relocation kit and 19row oil cooler

So your saying i should just go cams cam gear and wind the boost up ?

any idea wat stanard internal can take at all ?

Edited by Camo34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/#findComment-3513287
Share on other sites

yeh you realise that by simply bolting all your stuff up to a rb26 that your still in the same boat you are now, if anything the older 26 will have a higher chance of failure.

or was 8500 for a built 26? doubt it.

just rebuild the 25 with quality parts and get a decent intake plennum on it.

Edited by James_03
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/#findComment-3513875
Share on other sites

sweet best place in brissy to get work done for a rebuilt rb25 is?

Most the placest in good old mackay just wanna screew more boost in to the stock engine and are telling me that it will be fine for years to come o.0

No offence to any tuners that read this that are from mackay.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/196236-wat-next/#findComment-3514457
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...