Jump to content
SAU Community

Carsales.com.au's Review On The R35 Gtr In Japan.


Recommended Posts

the problem here is weight

as Ferni said, you can't go too far either side of optimal for the damping and have a system that works well

(ie- 'jacking' down or po-go'ing). the engineers have obviously chosen springs that have a huge rate to control the fat body, so that basicaly determines the ride characteristics. the shockies only job is to 'damp' the motion of the springs

also - I hope to god Nissan Australia does ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to suspension settings on account of MOTOR/Wheels magazine and the UK guys whining about comfort

:/

When the 350Z was released, the exact same complaints were made about its ride. So they revised the suspension for the European models, with help from Nissan UK. Guess what happened? Those suspension revisions ended up in later model 350Zs internationally, and everyone concluded the car drove better on the road since it was absorbing bumps. On road loops the Euro-spec setup was quicker and more confidence inspiring, and made the car more enjoyable to drive.

As always, the Japanese can't seem to tune suspension. They always assume "stiffer = better" when its not the case, especially not for a street car driven by ordinary people. A car with progressive handling is always quicker than something super sensitive unless you're a good driver (which most people are not).

Considering the car in question is not the V-Spec or N1, I hope they do something about the suspension if its as bad as they say. If someone complains about a track-focused car being too harsh on the road but great on the track, I'd agree that they're nuts, but if you intend on living the GT-R as a "daily drivable supercar" then I'd rather it absorb bumps and maintain constant tyre contact with the road.

As always, the Japanese can't seem to tune suspension. They always assume "stiffer = better" when its not the case, especially not for a street car driven by ordinary people. A car with progressive handling is always quicker than something super sensitive unless you're a good driver (which most people are not).

I thought the GTR used Bilstein suspension and was tuned by the guys at Bilstein?

Anyway, there is no way the GTR with its weight can lap the Nurg in 7:38 with softer suspension. Nissan engineers knew that and they had to compromise the softer suspension in order to get the lap time they were after.

I think you'll find that the differences between japanese-tuned suspension and australian-tuned suspension has more to do with the roads in each place than the engineers.

I love the term "built for australian roads" - in other words, have the suspension as soft as you can possibly make it so as not to spill your drink every 5m when you hit a pothole or some piece of badly cracked bitumen. Our roads (at least here in SA) are bumpy and extremely crap. On a good quality flat road, my stagea is more comfortable than just about every other car i've been in. It kind of just glides along, no seasickness etc.

But give it your average adelaide road and the suspension is less than perfect :P

As far as the article is concerned. Most of the aussie car reviewers are so brainwashed into aussie cars its no wonder it only scored 3.5/5.0. They were probably just confused because they couldn't work out what model of holden it was...

Correct me if im wrong, but the Aussie guy that test drove the GTR was from MOTOR magazine?

As i can recall, guys at MOTOR magazine have always been biased towards the GTR's - they don't like GTR's. There was one time, they tested the R34 with other cars and complained that it's handling around the track was more annoying than revolutional. Thats because they didn't know that a GTR is meant to be driven hard to bring out the best in it. They were driving it around the track like pussies.

However, WHEELS magazine have always loved GTR's. They were the ones that gave it the nickname 'Godzilla'. Anyway, i remembered an article where they tested an R34 N1 against a Monaro GTS or somethin and they said that the GTR was "the best car they've ever driven - no kidding".

Man these guys dont know how to drive pfft 4.0 wait till people own this car and get familiar with it easy mid 3s and mid to low 11s...

umm, with launch control and DSG what does the driver actually have to do to but hold the right pedal down???

umm, with launch control and DSG what does the driver actually have to do to but hold the right pedal down???

They were testing in slightly damp conditions. Hence there could be a couple of tenths that can be cut from the 0-100kmh time and the 0-400m (also mentioning they hit the 180kmh limiter before they reached the end of the 400m and they still managed a 12.1).

a) GT-R has launch control and b) it works! Using it to good effect on the complex's deserted dragstrip, in the failing light at the end of the Sendai session, MOTOR's David Morley punched out an even 4.0sec for the 0-100km/h sprint and 12.1sec for the standing 400m.

While in 'normal' conditions the 4.0sec will be hard to trim...

nothing about it being damp when they did it. If it was damp I doubt they'd say it would be hard to beat in normal conditions. so my point about knowing how to drive, or getting familiar with the car helping accelleration times significantly still stands.

nothing about it being damp when they did it. If it was damp I doubt they'd say it would be hard to beat in normal conditions. so my point about knowing how to drive, or getting familiar with the car helping accelleration times significantly still stands.

It seems you're right. did they mention what revs the launch control takes off? is it a clutch frying redline launch?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...