Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

It has been a while :P Life is busy...

Anyway, I need to replace the turbo on my Stag - the original is whining like a jet about to take off. Unfortunately, the cash is just not there for a serious upgrade, so I am looking to replace the turbo with something pretty stock, that will involve nothing more than bolting in and fitting up. I don't want to have to worry about wrong intake/outlet diameters etc, so can anyone tell me what the specs are that MUST be right to make this as simple as possible? And any idea what I should get? I just enjoy driving my Stag, I ain't a mechanic or a fanatic, so I really have very little idea.

TIA, and, it's good to be back, even if it is for the wrong reason...

Sk0pe

Hey Sk0pe,

if you can't get a healthy standard used turbo (the s1 Stagea uses the s2 R33-spec turbo), then I believe the best replacement is a Garrett GT28RS, which AFAIK is a direct replacement.

Your best bet is to give a workshop a call and check with them, or speak to GCG who sell and rebuild turbos for Garrett.

Here's a few places in Sydney:

GCG Turbochargers: 1300-TURBOS (or 1300-887-267)

Unique Autosports: 9620-9000

Hills Motorsports: 9899-9962

Good luck!

T3 flange, with rb20/25 exhaust housing

Either R33 or R34 "Neo" turbo are bolt on standard turbo's

an R32 turbo would be a backwards step - small exhaust housing

scour the for sale ads for a high flow turbo

or take your shagged turbo in for a rebuild, where they bore out the intake and exhaust and use new core and new bigger steel wheels

(and compare the highflow quoted prices against the GT28RS)

search ebay, sometimes a R33/34 turbo comes up for sale

how would a gt28rs compare to a highflow? a mate is selling one cheap, brand new, as he decided not to fit it.

Not sure, but this is something I'd like to know as well.

Almost forgot about Just Jap - they have a good selection of turbos too. http://www.justjap.com

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm seeing torque specs all over the place for the OUTER tie rod, but none for the INNER tie rod, where it connects to the steering rack. Even in videos, people are just tightening em up as much as they can with a wrench and that's it. Anything tightened down without torque makes me nervous. Anyone know what the spec is for it?
    • Hope you had a great time here in our tiny country.   The JDM scene we have here is quite small, it's mostly BMW, Volkswagen with burble tunes haha. But the few JDM cars we do have in the scene are pretty nice. Some of my friends drive cool s14's too. Both built engines, red one makes abt 500, blue one abt 400 i think?
    • Ye good idea , would have never thought of something like that. Might aswell do it to every pulley and the balancer while I’m there 
    • Use an LS1 or similar, via kit like Frenchy's. But.... It's probably not the alternator. It sounds like belt squeal, which would be because the pulleys are glazed. Rub every groove on the pulleys with 120 grit paper. Report back. Oh, and new belts afterwards too. The old new ones will be shitted up already.
    • Hello all I have 2 r34 sedans , one turbo one na, only recently aquired the na 34.  Man what is with these things.... My turbo 34 started sounding like a super charger, it was screaming at anything above 4000rpm , I took the alternator apart and replaced the front bearing which is the only one I think you can access and it did not fix the issue so presumably the bearing in the rear of the alternator is gone. ( diagnosed it was the alternator by taking off the aux belts one by one to figure out which pulley or bearing it was )  My friend gave me one he had lying around, Installed it , it did not squeal for maybe 500kms and now its started to squeal again briefly on startup  Recently got an na r34 and I replaced the timing belt, water pump + all the auxillirary belts. Runs amazing but it suddenly developed the same squeaking problem but significantly worse, Ive had my neighbour come down screaming at me because it was waking her up everytime I moved the car. It takes a good 2 minutes before it quietens down.  Im yet to diagnose where its coming from but im fairly sure its coming from the alternator aswell. My question isnt about how to fix it but rather where can you get a new alternator for an rb25 neo??? Ive searched everywhere but I havent been able to find a direct fit oem type replacement thats not genuine. All the automotive stores sell an oex one - BXA035 - which I picked up for cheap through a friend with staff discount , got it home only to find the connector is completelty different.... As far as im aware bxa035 is for rb20/30's and after a bit of figuring out the bxa035 has an ev14 type connector, which is tiny compared to the rb25 connector. I actually had an ev14 connector lying around which I was considering just replacing the bigger plug with to get the alternator working but the bxa035 is rated for 70amp vs the rb25 alternators are 90amp ( or so ive been told ? ) That paired along with the fact im about to install an amp + sub in the back and I have the stock sized small battery Im not sure itll do the job unless anyone has another opinion?  I know and have seen all the websites selling the ls1 alternator conversion kit but I am not going down that route, nor do I have the money to. Hopefully I can figure out how to get 2 brand new alternators for both cars. I would buy second hand which there seems to be many of but considering how common this seems to be im sure If I installed a second hand one it would start squealing in no time  Or even better if anyone knows how to fix the issue directly with the alternator itself... Any input appreciated Thank you     Link for bxa035 connector picture
×
×
  • Create New...