Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well it is all happening!

We only have 6 odd weeks to have the car reliable, guaranteed we are coming back with a blown this or that... but also the thirst for a somewhat competitive car in 2009 - you gotta start somewhere!

Duncan - our only legal option is to run the ceramic turbos is it not - or have them rebuilt with a steel wheel CHRA? Someone mentioned earlier that to swap to N1 we would need to be entering the car as N1 spec and actually have an.. N1.

Can't wait to get over there!

  • Replies 60
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

You DON'T actually have to have a genuine N1, just enter it as such. But, you need to have all genuine N1 bits on there, such as factory oil cooler, N1 spec turbos etc. I reckon it'd be worth the exercise just to have that little bit of extra reliability up your sleeve.

Keep in mind that technically you cannot run a GTR with so much as an oil cooler if it wasn't on their from factory. Hence nearly everyone runs as N1 spec. :O

Btw, great to have another Skyline there :D

Edited by Marlin
You actually have to have a genuine N1, just enter it as such. But, you need to have all genuine N1 bits on there, such as factory oil cooler, N1 spec turbos etc. I reckon it'd be worth the exercise just to have that little bit of extra reliability up your sleeve.

Keep in mind that technically you cannot run a GTR with so much as an oil cooler if it wasn't on their from factory. Hence nearly everyone runs as N1 spec. :D

Btw, great to have another Skyline there :D

lol you forgot a very important word 2nd in that sentance "dont"

but you are right about the trade off. the n1 turbos are too big, but 16" wheels are too small. lots of compromises.

Is an N1 oil pump required?

I am thinking the higher flow is more likely to cause oil issues without any internal engine mods to oiling for the head. We are trying to avoid cracking open the motor at this stage.

Also just trying to get our hands on some N1 "lagmasters" - one guy looks to have the R34 N1 dumps as well which could be a good bonus - you guys know of any issues fitting these in the 32 with the standard front pipe positions?

Oh and if anyone has an N1 oil cooler, power steering cooler or water pump we are in the market BIG TIME!

Edited by paulR32gtr

well strictly yes, if you run in n1 spec you can't pick which bits you want. but the n1 pump flows less not more than a standard pump. also targa seemed to be easier on the motor than circuit racing you are not doing as much sustained high rev stuff (yes on the big straights, but there is a lot of mid rev tight stuff too)

re the 34 n1 dumps, they of course are also not legal on a 32. I am pretty confident they would bolt straight on though, only difference would be the rear dump has an exhaust gas temp sensor fitting.

i had to get my 32 n1 turbs from nissan on order from japan. no-one else was mad enough to want a set of them I guess :( the 34 n1s are a much better unit (ball bearing v 270o thrust bearing) but not legal

having said all that, I didn't notice any eligibility scruitineering last year at all. Another GTR we went through with clearly had aftermarket injectors for example.

Sweet re: oil pump - Steve already bought one! I do now remember hearing that they flowed less - thanks.

How much were the R32 N1's and how long did they take to get here? Edit: spose i should just get on the phone to nissan eh!!

Edited by paulR32gtr

We are looking at the G4 Racing AP copies - just hoping they will fit under 17x8 / 17x9 wheels

Ben you mentioned being able to run 18x9 under the option rule - what does this entail? Couldn't find it mentioned in the regs.

Stu Benson (tech reg guy for Targa) has told me that cars are alowed to run wheels that were option parts. The R32 GT-R had 17x9, and 18x9 wheels as an option from the factory. R33's had 18x10 optional wheels from the factory. The old CAMS regs had the option rule in there somewhere. Best bet is to email Stu.

Just found the regs. 301.9 http://www.targa.com.au/Competitors/Regula...icalGeneral.pdf dosn't say anything about wheels though?

Hi

Re the options on wheels, I read the new regs and it does not say you can have option wheels so I am not sure you can.

The other thing to remember is that if you run an option you need to be able to produce proof as per the regs.

That proof must be in one of the formats defined in the regs.

Just my thoughts, happy to see the rules that say otherwise.

BT

wheel options were removed in error from the regs, but will be re-included via bulletin shortly. sorry for the confusion.

paul - further to your email, lee also took the turbos off my old GTR and replaced them with something else. i doubt he'd be after big dollars for them. they made 260kw on 16psi and 95ron with a 3.5" exhaust with a very very mild tune.

Hey whats the deal with exhaust regs?

Had a chat with Ben @ Racepace and he mentioned we may be limited to a 3" exhaust maximum on the GTR? Ouch...

Stuart - those turbos were genuine N1's?

Edited by paulR32gtr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...