Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was driving my GTR yesterday and noticed it was idling at about 1400rpm. Not positive as to why it was doing this but I believe it has some thing to do with the cold start, aac valve, or another idle system. It had done this before and all I did was turned it off for about a second and then started it again and it was fine, but in the latter 'fix' I was stationary. When I restarted the car when it was moving I noticed that the 4wd & ABS light were on. Now you all know what that means. RWD! So I went around a corner at a fairly quick pace and sure enough, no torque to the front wheels. With a grin on my face I went to the nearest dirt road I could find and spent the next 5 mins fishtailing down this dirt road with the front wheels totally dissengaged. I knew that this was a flaw/trick with the R32's so I figured, if I stop, everything should kick back in. And I was right, I stopped the car and the lights went off. I drive one way down the dirt road in RWD & drove back the otherway in AWD. So I have a few questions of course.

-What do I do about the idle problem?

-Does anyone else's R33 GTR do this?

-Will this damage the centre diff? (Even though I cant see myself making this an everyday event)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/
Share on other sites

-What do I do about the idle problem?

-Does anyone else's R33 GTR do this?

-Will this damage the centre diff? (Even though I cant see myself making this an everyday event)

Go see a mechanic about your idle :-)

Yes my ABS light came on once when I stalled her (shock horror, happens with a race clutch)

No idea on the diff damage.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/#findComment-3530817
Share on other sites

With a grin on my face I went to the nearest dirt road I could find and spent the next 5 mins fishtailing down this dirt road with the front wheels totally dissengaged.

lol. GTR and dirt road, makes baby jesus cry

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/#findComment-3530927
Share on other sites

Yeah I figured the centre diff might suffer from doing that, and dont worry guys I had left that dirt road even before the dust had settled, wont be back either I just wanted to let everyone know what happens when you 're-fire' a 33 gtr.

About the idle, no-one has any ideas as to why or which component isnt working.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/#findComment-3531842
Share on other sites

aslong as you dont bottom out your awd will be perfectly fine on dirt as long as its not rwd permanently. Can the manual torque switch from a 34 work in a 33 or is there no solution for the 33 ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/#findComment-3532510
Share on other sites

aslong as you dont bottom out your awd will be perfectly fine on dirt as long as its not rwd permanently. Can the manual torque switch from a 34 work in a 33 or is there no solution for the 33 ?

i think you mean does the manual torque switch work from a 32 works in a 33

the answer is no unfortunately. The 33/34 can still use the torque splitter, but only to increase front torque, not decrease it or disable it to go RWD.

The reason for this is the 32 gtr is essentially a rwd car untill attessa kicks in and powers the front (thats also why the attessa seems lazier in a 32 than a 33/34), the 33/34 on the other hand always has power going to the front, around 5-10% from memory. By running a 33/34 in rwd, ie turning off attessa, it can damage the front diff as it relies on the attessa pump for lube, and with no attessa pump = no lube = damage.

Edited by R34GTFOUR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/197437-r33-gtr-in-rwd/#findComment-3534537
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dear folks My family members have 4 different cars : Triton 2015 and Corolla 2011 and Mazda3 2012 and Hyundai Elantra 2014 Looking to buy engine oil funnel spill free What I found are are below  https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0BBTTJNKX?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&th=1 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/145553221359?srsltid=AfmBOoqYBU6Ptw0LU_bAp_k67U3qkF97HHvePkA7iHZw8vUmiwoIRaRr https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09X23TCS5?th=1 Is there a funnel with attachment that fits most cars ? Don't mind to spend for a decent quality  Thx  
    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
×
×
  • Create New...