Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

as the topic says, whilst removing my stock dump pipe the passenger side top bolt snapped, with the thread stuck in the turbo side. the other 5 bolts were all ok, and sprayed in wd40 beforehand but this top bolt was very brittle and snapped.

my new single piece dump/front pipe is bolted up, but i now have a big exhaust leak between the turbo and the dump, at the top because there is no bolt to hold it together. i can feel a fair amount of air leaking at idle if i put my hand there.

i've been told my turbo will have to be removed to get this broken bolt out. can anyone recommend a place where i should take it in perth, to fix this properly for good? anyone got an idea what i should be paying for this labour, so i don't get ripped? any help is appreciated.

cheers,

Chris.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/19780-help-dump-turbo-bolt-snapped/
Share on other sites

Man - not good. Boo to rusted brittle studs!

Pulling the turbo out isn't an impossible job - Zanda and I managed it on his car ok. Once you have it out you could try what is called an "easy out". Basically you drill a pilot hole into the offending stud and bash this "easy out" thing in with a hammer and then use it to turn out the remaining thread.

If you're not confident doing that then a workshop is definitely the go but it's gonna cost a fair amount of coin because of the labour time involved.

Good luck either way man...

  • 5 years later...

i too got a broken bolt on the turbo-to-front pipe.. :(

and it wasnt evan me who broke it..

anyways i blew my turbo yesterday..

well not blew..no smoke and i can still drive...

just really really loud bearing noise...lol

i didnt get the car home, till lik 6ish..

and i started removing intake pipe, heat shield etc.. straight away...

i got the 2 top nuts off the turbo that hold it to the manifold..

and 3 that are on the side that hold the exhaust/front pipe..

but my mate decide to have ago..and he broke one..

anyways..i was thinking about drilling it out while the turbo is still in place..

would this b a good idea??

i believe i can get a drill in there..

but any ideas or tips would b great

im getting another turbo put back on so...aslong as i dont destroy the front pipe..i should b ok..

oh yeah..is there any real good removal help guide for turbos for rb25det or fitting guides that anybody knows off?

bit of a tight fit to drill

unless you have a right angle drill?

also since the turbos bust, why not just remove it?

is it possible to weld a nut onto it then remove it?

mate did with snapped studs in the head

well i got if off...

i got another topic on this,..a separate topic on..coz the main problem was the turbo was whining...

and it still is..

anyways..

i got new gaskets today..so im trying that,,,

but this turbo i fitted..a series 1 r33 turbo...

had a snap stud in the corner..lol

and ther person has tried to drill it out twice..but couldn't get it out..

its fitted to the car already..

a mate from work recons i should have drill it out completely and put a bolt and nut on it instead of just leaving it..

plus put the new gasket on with exhuast(copper colour type) sealant..thats sensor safe..

i also got told to do this by a turbo place MQT in perth..just on the bell-mouth/dump side only...

is there a easier way to get those 2 bottom nuts on the dump/turbo wen the turbo is on the car???

i had to remove the 3 dump/front pipe bolts and coz i couldn't get to the 2 nuts wen i took my turbo the first time...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
    • Is it alright to top up with just another green coolant?
×
×
  • Create New...