Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i was just wondering if it sounds correct that coil packs would play up at only 14psi?

My cars getting tuned with A GT3082R turbo and the tuner said that 14-15 pound boost and the car is breaking up.

Just wondering if this sounds normal, cause i know ppl have run 14 psi with the standard turbo without upgrading the coilpacks. And if it is normal how much am i lookin to spend to get a set?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198192-coil-packs/
Share on other sites

Normal for ageing coils.

New ones are around $550

cheers.

No worries, thanks mate... I just sorta feel as though im getting milked since there have been a few things labour wise he had to do aswell. Probably legit... just dont like giving money away lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198192-coil-packs/#findComment-3539862
Share on other sites

wat did he get ya for?

Welding a few runs inside the intake pipe to stop turbulance... said it would help steady the car when on idle. that wasn't much though.

Also said he had to re-drill and tap the holes that hold the throttle position sensor on. said the tps was coming loose after a few runs. Since the cars an hour and a half away i cant see it so i just have to say yeah.. do it. But its done now and im pickin it up just tuned to 13psi, no more coin

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198192-coil-packs/#findComment-3539889
Share on other sites

Before you go spending money and changing coil packs, check that your plugs are gapped at 0.8mm that might help the breaking down with the higher boost.

Edited by subzeroR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198192-coil-packs/#findComment-3540084
Share on other sites

Before you go spending money and changing coil packs, check that your plugs are gapped at 0.8mm that might help the breaking down with the higher boost.

Yeah he ran cold plugs and gap gapped to 0.8, said it might help but no luck, still crap... its definately the coil packs Thanks guys :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198192-coil-packs/#findComment-3545407
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...