Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mercury Motorsport bought the rights to the Dr-Drift ecu remapping and software here in QLD...

The Dr_Drift one was probablly the best, im sure there are others tho like chip torque and so forth...

But cost for benifit you would be some what better off looking at an alternate aftermarket ecu solution...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198265-r32-remap/#findComment-3541180
Share on other sites

Mercury Motorsport bought the rights to the Dr-Drift ecu remapping and software here in QLD...

The Dr_Drift one was probablly the best, im sure there are others tho like chip torque and so forth...

But cost for benifit you would be some what better off looking at an alternate aftermarket ecu solution...

+1

Yeah...

Might hunt around for the Emanage ultimate.

Just reading up on it now, and finding out where to get them and who tunes them.

Any info to shorten my search would be appreciated (i am lazy...) :D

I would stay away from piggy back system if you can get it chipped and tuned and with rb20's you can.

I had a Dr Drift style remap done by him personally and it was the best $$ i spent on that car, and i have spent alot, Dangerous_Davo will also support the remap as will many others. so much mor drivable.

as for piggy backs systems, they are a must if you keep a standard ecu on an rb25 as i have been told the ecu's reset themselves everytime you turn the car off. i could be wrong anyone who can back it up please do. but emanage is what i will be looking into for the 25 for mine. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198265-r32-remap/#findComment-3541602
Share on other sites

+1

I would stay away from piggy back system if you can get it chipped and tuned and with rb20's you can.

I had a Dr Drift style remap done by him personally and it was the best $$ i spent on that car, and i have spent alot, Dangerous_Davo will also support the remap as will many others. so much mor drivable.

as for piggy backs systems, they are a must if you keep a standard ecu on an rb25 as i have been told the ecu's reset themselves everytime you turn the car off. i could be wrong anyone who can back it up please do. but emanage is what i will be looking into for the 25 for mine. :D

this may sound ignorant, but for the dr drift remap, should i just pm him for it, or does he have a shop that deals with this now..?

Col, thanks for that. I will shoot him a message and see how he found the whole experience.

Edited by foamer_69
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198265-r32-remap/#findComment-3541706
Share on other sites

this may sound ignorant, but for the dr drift remap, should i just pm him for it, or does he have a shop that deals with this now..?

OK so a bit of background for you in this matter;

Dr-Drift = Sam

Ok so sam used to cue up a stack of rb20's every few months in Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and he would fly to the location. Hire some dyno time at a local workshop and bomb out 5-6 cars per trip and then return home. However sometime back in early 05 (i think) Mercury Motorsport saw the benifit in learning/using Sams system and so they struck an offer and Mercury bought Sams knowledge and his tools. As a part of the deal Sam does not come to Brisbane anymore to tune cars.

Now Mercury have the chip and the tuning ability and they have purchased this ability im sure the price is quite a bit higher than Sam used to charge, hence my comments about checking out other aftermarket options. But hey I guess its only a phone call away, give them a buzz and check up how much a dr-drift tune is worth these days and then compair that cost to an aftermarket system...

As if the prices are compairable or even close id be going aftermarket as then you have dozens of workshops that can tune your car (more competition means lower prices at the end of the day) and of course the aftermarket ones generally have more features. But im thinking mostlly of the fact that you could get it tuned anywhere you want.

hey hey i am also looking for a remap or somthing lulz :) for an rb20 with some breathing mods eg, fmic,pod,25turb,3in zorst turboback ect..who can hook me up on the coast here Rohan?

REGARDS SIR JEZLEY :)))))

Mate the chips are only through Mercury so you would have to drive down to Newarket but thats not far from the coast... :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198265-r32-remap/#findComment-3542770
Share on other sites

hey fouund this on the net, rofl i think it could be to good to be true.. :) anyways whats your thoughts???!

32 Skyline RB20DET Drift Computer ECU Chip Stage 3???

link 1.

link 2.

lub JEZ!

Edited by 32JEZ
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198265-r32-remap/#findComment-3543508
Share on other sites

lol bud if i knew, i wouldnt ask, just trying to learn shit ay :P(((

LOL fair enough

In short it does not matter which ecu you have or if you go for a chip which chip you get.

The most important thing it that it is custom tuned to your car.

Dont just buy a "power up" type of chip from ebay, get a custom tuned chip specificlly for your car and your needs.

Or go for an aftermarket ecu and have it tuned by your local workshop.

Food for thoguht tho (just the way i see it);

If you get for instance a Apexi PFC (Ap r32 version) you could go to almost any workshop in Brisbane and have it tuned. Some shops are better than others but none the less 90% of workshops will be able to help you with this system. Not to metion with competition and the amount of these units on the market im sure they know how to use one also.

As where if you buy a chip there are not that many people who can tune them, so as such your reducing your choices of workshops that can service your needes.

They could also have a monoply on the market and hence it could cost you more in the long run.

Just food for thought tho... Cheers Col

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198265-r32-remap/#findComment-3544797
Share on other sites

the remap is probably your best bet. it will be cheaper then an aftermarket ecu plus full tune, on rb20's its very effective

the standard ecu has a few benifits over aftermarket jobs, like retaining your knock and detonation control and the rb computer will run smoother

i ran a wolf 3d on my old motor, the wolf is packed with features but it didnt run very well for just normal driving, some tuners will tune your idle and then tune it at WOT with a couple of touch ups in the middle it tends to run like shit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198265-r32-remap/#findComment-3547105
Share on other sites

Please Note: Mercury do not provide "Dr Drift" remaps, they simply have the software I use.

ALSO: My Contract has now expired with Mercury, and I am again able, and willing, to travel to Sunny QLD for tuning visits.

If anyone is interested please send me an e-mail through drdrift.com.au (opt in for the mailing list to stay informed too)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198265-r32-remap/#findComment-3547209
Share on other sites

To Jez and Foamer..

I suggest getting hold of Sam like he said cause there will be heaps who want it done.

In case anybody was wondering, mercury quoted me around $330 for the remap, plus one hours worth of dyno time for the turbo, and another hour for afm, bringing the total to $930, drive in, drive out by lunch time.

wow thats alot....struth.

does this apply for series 1 rb25's or is it only rb20 ecu's that can be chipped?

i hope so cause i wil need one, but i heard from some people that stock rb25 ecu's rest to their old setting each turn of the key so i am going to PM Sam to see if he can do it yet.

Please Note: Mercury do not provide "Dr Drift" remaps, they simply have the software I use.

ALSO: My Contract has now expired with Mercury, and I am again able, and willing, to travel to Sunny QLD for tuning visits.

If anyone is interested please send me an e-mail through drdrift.com.au (opt in for the mailing list to stay informed too)

Appologies about the wrong info.

PM sent.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/198265-r32-remap/#findComment-3547809
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
×
×
  • Create New...