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gday

I have just picked up an Apexi saf-c and i will be installing it in my r33 gts-t.The unit used to be on a 200sx .I am giving it a try to try and eradicate the rich fuel intake i am getting when at 11psi hoping to squeeze a few more kilowatts out of her.

Has anyone installed this themselves??

In the manual it says

red wire: pwr

green wire:rpm signal

brown:ground

black:ground

yellow: air flow output

white:airflow input

ok in the wiring diagram for nissan all wires are shown except they have changed the name instead of airflow input and airflow out put there is AIRFLOW SIGNAL AND THROTTLE SIGNAL

WHICH IS WHICH????

also once i have the unit installed is it just a matter of driving and making adjustmaent or is there things that need doing before i start it or drive it??

Another thing the unit was in a 200 sx does the saf-c hold a memory of settings and how could this affect this install

Any info would be a great help thanks =Marty!

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ok dude, unless u know ur shit i wouldnt tune it urself, if u lean the car out too much u can cause some serious damage. Im going to be hooking one up this week end, ur two wires on the s-afc go inbetween the one wire on ur ecu, AIRFLOW SIGNAL as thats how the unit works, interupting and modifing that signal, cut ur AIRFLOW signal wire going to ur ecu and ur yellow AIRFLOW OUTPUT goes to the ecu side of the wire and the white AIRFLOW INPUT put goes to the airflow meter side of the wire. Set it rich when u first drive it, then take it to a dyno shop and they will do the rest.

-5% across the board generally works for a base tune as that will rich it out a lot..

Its actually less easy to seriously damage your engine than you'd think..you can bump it up and down a few settings incrementally - you'll hear strange noises and/or it will stutter and be pretty obvious if you've gone a bit extreme on the settings. You'd have to be flooring it while making obvious noises to do serious damage if ask me. If you have a decent A/F meter I'd say you could even tune it yourself as long as you know what to listen for. Depends on your knowledge I guess.

I think though proper tuning should be done on the dyno though to get the best results.

To reset it ..you got to go into "SETTINGS", i think "ETC" and there is an "INITIALISE" setting which will reset the whole thing..

Yes, 0 is no correction at all. As you may know basically it just modifies the standard airflow signal going in to the ECU...so if you tell it 0% adjustment it just feeds in what its reading from the AFM and the car just behaves as if its not there I am pretty sure.

The ECU runs fairly rich as standard, so you are generally fine as long as you don't wind up the boost too much. I am not sure the exact point where the (unmodified) ECU signal is going to dangerously lean out though.

The other day i basically zero'ed everything to 0% adjustment - and went to my stock boost solenoid and everything was fine.. basically behaved as a stock car. Passed emissions like that anyway..

Alot of people are scared of tuning their own cars, and i think this is because alot of tuners scare them. Its really not that hard, and they know that. Unless you really get it wrong, or drive it for an extended period of time with poor tuning, its really hard to damage your engine. Ive learned how to tune a motec ecu with minimal help and by trial and error on a very high n/a performance engine (Ok its a bike, but 14.3:1 compression on pump fuel, and 168hp@rear wheel from .9L). As long as its not so lean that it pings or splutters then the only thing that will happen is you will loose power. Richness is an easy one, it just runs like sh!t, no damage can be done there. So i say go buy a mixture guage, and refine it yourself, but only make small changes and keep an eye out for dreaded pinging

PS - I know some people dont know what pining sounds like. Its just that rattling sound that old people make when they try to drive their laser in a car park in 3rd gear :D.

ok i have hooked the saf-c up and it works good.At first i couldnt get it to initialize(erase any data),i knew this cos when i reved the car it stuttered as if it was running really rich and as i found out it was.I went to high throttle and to low throttle and set all settings to +5%.I took it for a drive and it was very sluggish and was running rich so i pulled up and set all the values to -5% and .....she turned into a rocket well almost.I used to be able to get some wheel spin if i dumped clutch in second at 50 kph now it left me sideways frying 2nd for about 80 metres .I am still left with 3 spare wires ,but the manual does not tell me where to connect these.All my connections were soldered into place then electrical taped to ensure good insulation.

although i have set high throttle and low throttle all to -5% i still dont know what these terms refer to??

I also dont know what Ne point is .

The car will be going to APC next week for a dyno and then test n tune at willowbank hoping to break 13.7.

any questions or comments appreaciated

And thanks predator666 its amazing what useful information can do!!!

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