Jump to content
SAU Community

The Skyline and HP...... debate and comment (PLEASE NO MUD SLINGING)


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 126
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

have to disagree Joe - theres a lot of people out there with too much money and not enough brains ..... although money helps theres no point having a shitload of dough a car and no idea how to go about it!

Originally posted by puckish

That doesn't sound right.. It helps if you know how to drive your car faster.

I don't think a 60ft of 2.3 entitles me to a 'great driver award'.

Granted it was on crappy 205's.

13.3 and a 2.3 60ft with only 4500rpm of useable power. Put 255's on the back of my car and in it's present state it will run 12's with the average yobbo driving.

IMACUL8,

The plan of attack in my case was:

decided I wanted a 'WORK' car with--

1)reasonable fuel ecconomy

2) ride comfort

3)nice accelleration

4)without alot of noise.

Quantified it :

1) Close to 9 to 10L/100km

2) Keep my ass from feeling like it's been kicked by a horse on long journeys

3) A mid 13 second 1/4 would be nice along with strong in gear overtaking power, calculated this would mean around 270hp @ motor.

4) I can carry on a conversation at normal levels when driving (car kit for phone/work)

As an example.

after quantifing the next step is to go out and find the solution.

My approach basically enhances the engine reponse and efficiency.The power level is conservative due to the restraint of noise and fuel ecconomy.

There is a guy in adelaide whose run a 12 second pass on a stockish turbo, I think it was slightly hiflo in japan. He's got just over 210kw@rear wheels, about 280hp. I've got 245hp, yet I still havent been able to crack a 13 yet. Comes back to how you drive the car, those who know what they are doing or have no mechanical sympathy will probably get the best results. I know where my problem lies, its in my launch. When the drags open up again I'm hoping to go down and work on it. That said with the turbo and ecu I'm putting it, it will bring my mod bill to about $10k, I'll only know if I have chosen the right turbo till after its bolted on, from what people (like steve and grant) have said it will produce the goods and I should make 350hp easily. I've also noticed that 245hp in my car does seem quite boring it doesnt have the "seat of the pants" quickness some other cars have with simular mods... *shrug* could be I'm used to the delivery of power from my car.

Originally posted by rev210

Jay95R33,

I agree about diversity. Unfortunately the 'diverse' can be replaced by 'ignorant' , 'uneducated' and 'missinformed'.

I too agree, although my reply was based on the comment "I dont understand your infatuation with dyno hp figures... ", and not so much on the misinformation and lack of direction.

I suppose I was just trying to say that everyone is different and we have to respect that, no matter what they decide what their goals are.

J

Well at last, a decent thread of conversation.

Good point, as rev210 is the ambassador for "throwing lotsa cash into a skyline DOESN'T mean it'll be fast" (in all cases)

I'm a prime example of spent too much already, and still haven't got a decent(quick) time.

That said, the only performance mods I have on my car is, 3" Exhaust, POD, CAI, EBC, SAFC-II, and clutch. The rest is aesthetic.

I'm not happy about pulling a 14.5, but what can ya do?

My next mods are Dump Pipe, Wrap exhaust and Cam Gear... here's hoping for a mid-low 13....

Back on topic: If that fails, I'll be seriously looking at Diff Cradle kits for traction, rear suspension setups and more-so tyre combinations.

Anyone seen that HPI video where they used different tyres and decreased 1/4mi times by nearly a second ?

Originally posted by Nizmo

have to disagree Joe - theres a lot of people out there with too much money and not enough brains  ..... although money helps theres no point having a shitload of dough a car and no idea how to go about it!

ok let me rephrase that

so "Person with good brain and most amount of money will have fastest car"

cheeers

Joe:rolleyes:

suspension is very underated on a skyline

a mate of mine with a 4 door skline and the same mods as u kim, runs a suspension shop set his car up really well and ran a 13.2 with 248 rwhp on formaz's dyno

other things that people neglect to look at is management. you can bolt all you want onto an engine but if its not tuned properly it aint gunnah run well. peak power doesnt reflect how fast a car is as we all know

adam took the words outta my mouth, management is one area i dun think anyone pointed out apart from adam, suspension is a definate area that is often missed out when it comes to modfying another is engine management, i've heard plenty say that wanna bolt this and that go fast parts on, and when they do their car runs like a bitch coz it hasn't got somethin even the slightest bit decent to manage the engine :( that allows them to tune the car to maximum potential :)

little things like removing the front headlight for optimum air flow to filter does work as bully has proven :) money ain't always the answer! i don't think bully paid a cent to remove his headlight and he managed to bring his 1/4 mile time down :)

adrian :D

I think this thread and the low down HP/torque thread go hand in hand. Most of us drive daily driven cars and want good low down low rpm response. For this I would do the following (if I was keeping the stock turbo and management):

full 3" turbo back exhaust

light weight flywheel

bleed valve set to around 10psi

safc2

some 9" wide rims on rear 17x9 or 18x9 to fit 265 rubber on

autoclutch 2000pound pressure plate clutch from ross

diff craddle set

I'd expect this car to run low 13's back to back and seeing as it isnt used on the track the stock intercooler should do fine. At most you'd probably spend $5k all up on that and it'd kick ass.

The cheapest form of management would be the wolf or the powerfc, both will set you back aruond $2k installed and tuned. I wouldnt bother unless you plan to change the turbo/injectors or are chasing huge HP a SAFC2 will do the job to lean the fuel out at high RPM. MRGTST's r33 has a re-written jap rom in his ecu and that makes over 280hp with his other mods, yet he still hasnt run a 13 :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...