Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My info is from the 11/2004 version of the document - there may be a more current version but I can't find one.

The info you got agrees with the info in the document for R34 GTRs, and the info he gave you on R32s and R33s seems to be for non turbo models.

I've attached a copy here for all to see.

Yeah thanks for that. I'm thinking that the 1 inch lower height for the R34 GTR's is probably more to do with the guard shape rather than the overall height.

Wonder why then that the turbo's have a different ride height in the same body style.

wats it running on high boost....as in how many psi's and wat power is it making...just keen as i got a S1 as well....

Its running 15psi on high boost, as for the power i have no idea mate i just got the car couple of days ago.

Can anyone guess from the experience what it could be making at the rear wheels with my mods and boost ?

iLEC - cheers for the heads up mate, I'm getting the premium plates anyway.

cheers

vlad

I'm guessing about 180-190ish rwkw? give or take... whack it on the dyno at the upcoming SAU Dyno Day :D

What turbo you got? aftermarket, hi flowed or standard? 15psi be a bit much for standard...

Ok just got home and it actually runs on 14psi, sorry for the 1psi mistake :(

Yes i am thinking of coming down to a dyno day just not sure if i will be working that day.

Its a standard turbo from what i know.

14 PSI sounds a bit too high with your mods atm.

Without an aftermarket fuel pump i doubt you would be up at 190 though. If it has ben PROPERLY dyno'd at 15psi then you may have a highflowed turbo?

Oh and to change the front bar you will need new head lights, bonnet and guards. S1 guards and S2 headlights dont exactly match up off the top of my head.

Maybe invest in a type-m or GTR rear spoiler i say.

Nice 33! Running 14psi eyy... get ready to pick up some turbo blades when they fly out your exhaust.

Ive got the same front bar as that too, I don't really like it but when you weigh up the cost of putting a "type-m" bar on it, I don't think its worth it unless you find one in your colour. Don't go after market fibreshit bodykit either, they look ghey IMO.

Oh and dnbutts that is a type-m spoiler, its just a series 1 version :)

Thanks, 99.99% of the time it runs on low boost, all i do is driving around the city at the moment so i dont even go over 3k rpm's :P

How do you tell if the turbo is high flowed ?

cheers

vlad

Nice 33! Running 14psi eyy... get ready to pick up some turbo blades when they fly out your exhaust.

Ive got the same front bar as that too, I don't really like it but when you weigh up the cost of putting a "type-m" bar on it, I don't think its worth it unless you find one in your colour. Don't go after market fibreshit bodykit either, they look ghey IMO.

Oh and dnbutts that is a type-m spoiler, its just a series 1 version :thumbsup:

Edited by dovla
  • 1 month later...

hey vlad nice ride man reading through sum comments and all i can add is i had my car dynoed before i boosted it up standard turbs same mods as u and i got [170@wheels"] hopefully that helps done more mods since then so i dont know what it has anymore also if u do get rid of the front bar let me know i need one for when i go to get mine fixed.the wing looks heaps better :):/

Edited by sweet r33

nice 33 man, i got the same bar aswel, but im keepin it atm but going to go probs a 400r bar, should look into them they looks nuts!

im also loosing the spoiler aswel as you can see in my dp, and i got a drift lip spoiler going on very soon! looks tough.

Edited by fredman
hey vlad nice ride man reading through sum comments and all i can add is i had my car dynoed before i boosted it up standard turbs same mods as u and i got [170@wheels"] hopefully that helps done more mods since then so i dont know what it has anymore also if u do get rid of the front bar let me know i need one for when i go to get mine fixed.the wing looks heaps better :cool::)

Cheers man, yeah id be happy with 170 mark as im not chasing any big numbers now. Its my daily drivers so most of the time its babied.

I'll let you know when i get my new front bar.

nice 33 man, i got the same bar aswel, but im keepin it atm but going to go probs a 400r bar, should look into them they looks nuts!

im also loosing the spoiler aswel as you can see in my dp, and i got a drift lip spoiler going on very soon! looks tough.

Thanks man, yeah i like the 400r bar but id really like a genium bar, not a big fan of fiberglass stuff. Perhaps mspec bar would suit the car.

I looked into drift spoilers but got this one instead as it squares up the rear

  • 1 month later...
Guest TR34GT
Hey chops......I got my R34 GTR through inspection last week and spoke to Paul from Vehicle Standards at Regency 1300 882 248 first to find out the minimum heights.

He said that the R34 Turbos were 340 Front & 345 Rear.......Non turbos might be different.

Rang him again 10 minutes ago and asked him about R32 & R33.......he said 345 Front & 355 Rear.......again, Non turbos might be different because he couldn't find a listing for GTR's but wanted to know if it was Turbo or not.

So now it begs the question, are ride heights for single turbos different to twin turbos?.....who knows how these guys operate.......probably varies with each inspector and how he translates the rules.

Sled,

Apologies for cutting across the topic, but my R34 GTT seems to have been lowered a touch too much in the front, by the previous Japanese owner.

Do you know where Paul may have got his data on the ride height for the front and rear?

Mines is a s--tload lower, and I'd like to re-instate closer to the original height.

Many thanks.

Jim (TR34GT)

yeah don't really know Jim....I'm sure if you did a search for ADR stuff and were prepared to sift thru all the propeganda you might come across the info.......just easier to ring Paul I reckon.

I would definitely raise your car to at least 340 front & 345 rear before going for inspection though.....thats one thing they are fussy about.

Make sure you are measuring correctly though........perpendicular to the ground from centre of wheel to bottom edge of the guard.

Sorry I can't help further, cheers.

Standard is round 400 believe it or not - the gap between wheel and guard is like a 4wd patrol. Looks shocking.

340 is very low anyhow - you would scrape your front bar on everything (like I do).

Standard is round 400 believe it or not - the gap between wheel and guard is like a 4wd patrol. Looks shocking.

340 is very low anyhow - you would scrape your front bar on everything (like I do).

CORRECT. Mine is on 360 which looks fine and still scrapes the front bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
    • Mine is all -12, I’m running a dry sump in a billet block though 
×
×
  • Create New...