Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i dunno if this is the right place to post this at but i was wondering..ive heard rb30's only go to around 7.5k revs and also that the crankshaft is very flexibly... so getting new high performance/custom built crank allow the engine to go over 7.5k revs.. this engine is going to have huge power so conrods pistols ect will be forged so now just wondering about the crank.. so if anyone knows anything about this or can help.. please tell me all ..also if anyone knows where to buy high performance cranks for rb30 blocks .. or maybe where to get one custom built

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/201957-crank-for-rb30dett/
Share on other sites

its not so much the crank failing as it is the block 'letting go' above 7-7.5k rpm

the rb30 block doesnt have internal bracing ribs like the rb26 does - so it has the ability to flex more and there is the potential for it to throw a piston or rod at or above those rpms

hmm im starting to think that 25/30 26/30 isnt the best thing.... at the end of the day all i care about is what can put out the most power i know theres some rb26s that put out huge power.. i was thinking that a 25/30 26/30 with lots of time and money spent on it would be better than a 26 and the 25/30 26/30 looks like its becoming much more popular now ive just never seen one heavily modded witch id like to do but then i suppose the block cant handle it coz everything else is guna be changed with performance parts and that and something has to give so i suppose its the block... so yeah in everyones opnion/statistics what will give higher power when heavily modded

EDIT: grout fill.. hmmm interestin anyone care to go into more detail ive had a quick look on google not the greatest but if any1 has any info about this that would be great

Edited by rb30de

well i want to push out atleast 800hp guna have 2 2000hp turbos or maybe 2 smaller ones from garrett but still 1400,its guna be a drag car/street racer im still going to drive it around so i need to keep it street legal some people may think im dumb for wanting to do this or whatever thats there opnion i know of a few ppl who have done it/do and im being serious about the hp i want huge power

in answer to

*Why would you have 4000hp worth of turbo to make 800 hp?

i said atleast 800 and just coz u have 2 2000hp turbos isnt going to make it a 4000hp car

*my rb26/30 has a standard rb30 crankshaft with built up oil pump drive to suit jun pump then nitrided has seen low 9sec ets and over 1000rwhp on dyno

dam thats pretty nice, i was also wondering about heads 25 or 26 i wana go with the 26 even tho the 25 is much cheaper but what would be better..including the fact that i will change cams ect ..but would it be better to go with the 26 with the hydralic lifters **1000rwhp on dyno** << is that still on the std 26 hydralic lifters

26's dont have hydraulic lifters. Im pretty sure you wont fit one 2000hp turbo in an r32 gtr engine bay, let alone 2. I know this may sound silly, but have you considered the fact that an rb30 with 2 turbos that size more than likely wont make 800hp, more like 300hp

Edited by Adriano

oh i always thought they had hydraulic lifters anyway yeah well 2000 is a bit over the top but i still want to get either the 1000 or 1400, ive seen 2 1400's on a 26 they look huge when there bolted on 2 the engine but one goes on top and the other sorta goes down the bottom and sucks air from there, thats also sorta how the hks skyline has it there not really big in size the turbo it has but it has huge power

Edited by rb30de

can i ask how old you are, your posts are beginning to sound like a kid on shool holidays is posting the questions, especially all the sms/slang text in your posts?

have you done any research at all on the subject?

do you understand the costs involved, you talk about the head being cheaper if you go 25, nothing about this will be cheap at all?

my advise is if you have the money and are legit, go and approach a well known workshop and get them to build you a package, might be the safest bet, that way you don't need to waste money on R&D and get backup support.

Edited by RB30-POWER
can i ask how old you are, your posts are beginning to sound like a kid on shool holidays is posting the questions, especially all the sms/slang text in your posts?

have you done any research at all on the subject?

do you understand the costs involved, you talk about the head being cheaper if you go 25, nothing about this will be cheap at all?

my advise is if you have the money and are legit, go and approach a well known workshop and get them to build you a package, might be the safest bet, that way you don't need to waste money on R&D and get backup support.

I'm 17 years old and no I'm not on school holidays I've been out of school for two years now and about the sms/slang text I find it much faster and easier to do.. also I have done a lot of research.. I don't know if you noticed but, thats why I'm asking these questions. Yeah well by the way 25 is cheaper if something is cheaper its cheaper, I never said once anything about this being cheap.. now did I? It's now that I have gathered a descent amount of cash so I can afford to start a project like this. I am legit and I have no intentions of getting any workshop to do this for me, it is intended to be a project and from what I've seen on some sites to get this built is expensive and they have pre-made kits which doesnt suit me because its not the parts that I want at the end of the day.

Edited by rb30de
well i want to push out atleast 800hp guna have 2 2000hp turbos or maybe 2 smaller ones from garrett but still 1400,its guna be a drag car/street racer im still going to drive it around so i need to keep it street legal some people may think im dumb for wanting to do this or whatever thats there opnion i know of a few ppl who have done it/do and im being serious about the hp i want huge power

lol

Why would you have 4000hp worth of turbo to make 800 hp?

Exactly.... The comment of 'im still going to drive it around so i need to keep it street legal'

Thats just crazy talk :P

You will NEVER, EVER get a 800hp+ car road legal.

If you go trying to build a 800hp+ RB30DETT in your backyard, i wish you the best of luck rb30de, because you'll need as much as you can find.

A figure not far short of 30-40k to begin with also... so its not cheap, its not expensive... its more than a moderate house deposit.

To start, 1000hp turbos x2 is just plain crazy talk for anything less than a 1500hp motor. You dont, wont, ever need them and you'll be slower because of it because they are simply useless.

You need something far more appropriate like a 800-900hp turbo - one of them.

I suggest you spend some more time reading, understanding and learning before you go aiming for Jupiter.

The faults, issues your talking about aren't accurate, nor are your aims, parts or much else for that matter.

Read the RB30 sticky thread, it has SOOO much information, and at 17, im sure you've got plenty of time

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
×
×
  • Create New...