Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Here's a few pics of my '99 R34 GTT after a detail

She's stock but in very good 'nick :)

DSCN1915.jpg

DSCN1920.jpg

DSCN1926.jpg

DSCN1921.jpg

DSCN1927.jpg

DSCN1929.jpg

DSCN1930.jpg

I didn't really detail the engine bay yet but here it is anyway.

The only mod it has is an unshielded pod (don't start, I know :D ). Will be fabricating an airbox for it later.

DSCN1931.jpg

Edited by R34mac
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202172-my-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

Also I've noticed that most R34's dash clusters just have blank plastic around the gauges? mine has chrome rings around the gauges and an imitation carbon fiber-ish look about it :D - maybe it was some option that was available? It doesn't seem to look after market to me

DSCN1934.jpg

DSCN1937.jpg

Edited by R34mac
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202172-my-r34-gtt/#findComment-3590865
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 years later...

Some time has passed - but I still own this car and it has never missed a beat :)

Since the last update, I've had a 3" turbo back full stainless exhaust with varex muffler installed, along with a 5sp manual conversion & new HD clutch, return flow front mount intercooler, boost tee'd it up to 12psi and added a walbro fuel pump. I managed to score a set of xenon lights from a jap import compliance company and installed them - best mod ever. I've also recently had NISTUNE installed on the ECU and will get it tuned soon - runs quite rich at the moment. The wheels are just a cheap stock set I picked up - I planned on having my original alloys resprayed gunmetal grey but never got around to it. But it's on the list to do ASAP.

I want to keep the car looking stock but clean - and up the power output a bit. Will be happy if I end up with 200rwkw or above. Not everyone will appreciate a stock looking Skyline, but here you go anyway.

7.jpg

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

4.jpg

5.jpg

6.jpg

Edited by R34mac
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202172-my-r34-gtt/#findComment-6209488
Share on other sites

I want to keep the car looking stock but clean - and up the power output a bit. Will be happy if I end up with 200rwkw or above. Not everyone will appreciate a stock looking Skyline, but here you go anyway.

I do - looks great!! But then again I'm biased :)

2348467950102364341S500x500Q85.jpg

Looks like our mod lists are very similar, too. Mine's still auto though but has a tune (199rwkw...sooo close) and some suspension work.

Btw mine was 150rwkw bog stock, around 175 with front mount and turbo back, and the last ~25 is from the boost controller & tune so well worth it.

Keep up the good work!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202172-my-r34-gtt/#findComment-6210680
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Definitely needs a tune!!! For interests sake I took my R34 out to a quiet bit of 100kph road and filmed a 0-100 timed run. I've never really gone all the way from 0-100 before at WOT and I was very surprised just how severe the stock ECU was cutting the fuel. Second gear at 4500rpm it started misfiring and straight away I reduced the throttle to around 3/4 for the rest of the run. You can't really hear it in the video, but it felt pretty horrid.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STS4IsyTbiQ

Was a disappointing 8.5 seconds to 100kph, from a standing start without dropping the clutch. Very much looking forward to getting this car tuned..

Edited by R34mac
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202172-my-r34-gtt/#findComment-6243524
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
    • Continental have consistently beaten the absolute shit out of every other performance tyre in Wet/Damp/Cold conditions and give up a little bit of time (half a second at most) in the dry. Almost like it's engineered for German conditions or something. I'd def give those a try.
×
×
  • Create New...