Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

afaik most places aren't too keen on retrimming s/wheels as they are so fiddly and difficult to get right, this means they end up costing as much as a new s/wheel. If there is someone that will do it though I might be interested.

all r32 wheels look like they've been chewed by a dog haha.

These threads might help

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...hl=retrim+wheel

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Up...hl=retrim+wheel

expect to pay around $400~

I was thinking about a retrim, but then i see so many other nice looking wheels that i could buy instead.

whats the legal limit of a steering wheel? i have a series 1 r33, i don't like the size of the wheel, wouldn't mind something a bit smaller

I would also say Gary Blackman. He did a few bits and pieces on the Lambo Spider. He has some of the best cars in the sometimes too.

Oh and legal limit of steering wheels is listed on vicroads website somewhere. Spend five or ten minutes looking there.

Yep i'd definitely go to Gary Blackman; Ant's was done there too.

I'm guessing "Cremorne" is in Richmond or close enough to be called Richmond.

Hulk: I think the legal limit is about 330mm or 350mm in diameter, not 100% sure though :). Also to be legal the s/wheel MUST have a padded center.

FYI

If it's a r32 steering wheel you want retrimmed and you want it to look as close to stock as possible then Gary will tell u to try and find a good 2nd hander. That's what he told me and that's what i did.

If u don't mind it looking like it's been retrimmed then he does a top job (have seen his work)

Yeah i want to fit a momo but i like the original wheel though plus i need the centre to be padded (I dont want more reasons to get a defect lol) I saw a steering wheel go yesturday on eBay it ended @ around the $300 mark which still wasnt perfect so i'd rather pay the $250 instead of getting a new wheel so i can get it re-trimmed ill have a look at asking Gary for an actual quote.

Good idea cosmo,

I thought about getting my steering wheel re-done also coz it looks a bit shite now after getting the gear shift boot, hand brake boot and handle redone at Gary's.

Then recalled that my steering wheel is illegal any way without a padded centre, so Im on the hunt for a replacement.

Anyone know who sells momo or similar quality in Melbourne? they should have some nice stylish padded wheels to choose from.

Yeah its really hard to find good padded wheels ive noticed. I bought one a fake MOMO from the guy i got my leather seat covers from, but couldnt fit it on because the boss kit i bought from gktech for $35 that was supposed to be a universal fit for my car doest fit unless i snap off the tabs for the horn! I want to change my steering wheel but not if it means i have to lose my horn thats stupid.. looks like if i wanna do it ill have to buy a $80 one from autobarn

Just noticed i got a response from Gary Black Trimming.

Hi

Its 242inc GST to recover steering wheels. If there are any repairs or if the wheel needs padding its a extra $22. All our wheels are hand stitched.

Hmmm that doesnt sound too bad imagine how mint it would look when done!

Yeah thats what he quoted me too.

He does a great job you wont be disappointed.

I was also considering after market Recaro's because my drivers seat is buggared, but after seeing the price of two new seats with rails and compliance blah blah Its all too hard.

Gary suggested I look for some GTR seats, and said as another option he could redo my front and back seats for around 2.5k incl.. which sounds tempting, and you don't have the hassle of getting a defect for non standard seats.

Anyway I will deal with the steering wheel first, maybe some one will come back to me with a momo dealer?

See attached pic of Garys work on my R33.

PS the boots were done a good 8 months ago, hand brake handle was done on Monday. (Excuse filthy car)

Cheers

Roj

Sorry pic didn't load Ill try it again.

Yeah retrim in leather and fit new rubber if needed to back and front seats along with lose material areas on the doors.

Its alot of work I'm guessing.

Would look Sh@% hot.

post-41942-1201150231.jpg

Edited by RottenRoj
Sorry pic didn't load Ill try it again.

Yeah retrim in leather and fit new rubber if needed to back and front seats along with lose material areas on the doors.

Its alot of work I'm guessing.

Would look Sh@% hot.

how much to retrim the handle on the handbrake? looks real nice

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...