Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey just bought a GTR 33 and its either got a twin or triple plate clutch in it.....

I hate it with a passion!!

Its noisy, makes terriable *Ting* sounds etc etc

Its hard to get used to... You let the clutch out slowly.. nothing nothing nothing nothing then ALL the clutch is fully out... theres no play in it or riding the clutch....

Does anyone else have one? Whats your thoughts?

Are they put in for big horse power aplications? is that the reason... cos i hate it!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/202896-triple-or-twin-plate-clutches/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well I have a twin plate. It is perfectly driveable (lightened flywheel effects aside) but when cold rattles like a bitch.

And yes they are used because they have more torque capacity than most single plates.

only when cold it rattles??? mine as soon as u touch your foot on the clutch it rattles like s**t...?

If its "that" bad it's probably a triple

Best bet is to wait until you're at a skyline meet, an ask if anyone has a triple and wouldnt mind you driving it around the block. Then see if its the same (within reason as all clutches will be different).

Or just pull it out and put a single plate in there

I have an excedy twin plate in my GTST which is my daily driver, and I now I really like it. But at first I was exactly like you and hated it, the rattle really pissed me off (now I dont mind it) and it took me a good month to become 100% efficient with the on/off nature of the beast(hill starts in the wet were a killer).

But honestly now I love it, drive yours for a while, get use to it, enjoy it.

If its "that" bad it's probably a triple

Best bet is to wait until you're at a skyline meet, an ask if anyone has a triple and wouldnt mind you driving it around the block. Then see if its the same (within reason as all clutches will be different).

Or just pull it out and put a single plate in there

Was thinking about it but to be honest i guess i want to spend money on making it go better and then i guess the clutch is already upgraded so no need to worry about it... was just wondering what other people thought of them thats all... and ive never come across one before and was wondering if it was adjusted right etc and had to make the noise etc...

I have an excedy twin plate in my GTST which is my daily driver, and I now I really like it. But at first I was exactly like you and hated it, the rattle really pissed me off (now I dont mind it) and it took me a good month to become 100% efficient with the on/off nature of the beast(hill starts in the wet were a killer).

But honestly now I love it, drive yours for a while, get use to it, enjoy it.

PHEW thats what i was hoping to hear....

Yer drove it today to work... at a set of lights on a hill.... thank god i was the only one at it lol... roooooolling!

only when cold it rattles??? mine as soon as u touch your foot on the clutch it rattles like s**t...?

Well yes it only rattles when you put your foot on the clutch. If the gear stick is in neutral & your foot is ff the clutch the plates are engaed & there is nothing to rattle.

What I was saying was that once the clutch itself has some heat in it when you depress the pedal it doesn't make anywhere near the same amount of noise.

You can, I'm sure find a more driveable example. It is only ever about the friction materials & whether or not it has a sprung or unsprung centre.

There are good twin plates and bad ones. Good ones still drive just as nice/easy as a single... or at least very close to. Then there are really crap ones that have no give in them.. pain in the ass to drive, you can get used to them however.

There are good twin plates and bad ones. Good ones still drive just as nice/easy as a single... or at least very close to. Then there are really crap ones that have no give in them.. pain in the ass to drive, you can get used to them however.

HAHA GUESSING MINES SHIT THEN! LOL

I *believe* I have an OS Giken twin plate clutch, it has a very small slipping point and groans and rattles IF you take off with low revs or attempt to slip it.

Give it a little power when your just near the friction point (ie. something like 1200-1500RPM) and then let it out fairly quickly and its nearly silent. Ie. don't try to slip it too much.

Last time I tried to drive a normal car I couldn't feel the clutch too well, so I think I might be used to it now.

Although, as others said you may have a triple plate which are said to be much harder.

More importantly than your clutch concerns, congratulations on your purchase!!! mine is purple too :)

not sure if your aware that multiplate clutches of the non-damper type are horribly on/off in operation, and for street your best off with a sprung centre, or damper type, that makes the on/off transition as good as a nice single plate amongst the better ones.

I just purchased an OS giken STR2CD twin plate for my gts, cost about 1700 delivered through greenline, apparently has very light pedal pressure and very easy to use. My GTR has a pretty heavy rebuilt OS twin plate, must be the TS2CD. Its still a damper type, but is quite on off, and makes your leg tired in stop/go traffic situations!

End of the day, if you use your car regularly, from my experience its eventually worth spending the $ on making it more driveable or friendly. if its a bit of a pig you may not look forward to driving it as much! My old clunky mechanical diff would put me off driving in the city!

cheers

Just installed a extreme 1650kg clamp load single plate with alloy flywheel.

Pedal feels like its just a fraction harder than the standard unit, although it judders a little on take off due to the button clutch plate but very happy with the performance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...