Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

both of those ( I sell them) dont have the diagrams in public use and in the case of quiktrak no one knows what the unit looks like or where it is fitted in the car.

for brant try getting a wiring diagram for them. you can't.

I sell viper also

good stuff as well. built more for the US markets tho.

revhead (r33gtst -do a search on here) has a hf1500-python that he is very happy with. been fitted to the car for 3 years now and zero probelms.

all of the ones I mentioned use rolling code technology.

basically the alarm will slow a professional thief down not stop them. the best alarm can also be the worst and easiest to to disable if not fitted properly- food for thought.

I would still use a clublock.

i agree with Chris Rogers.

brant have one of the top alarm systems (the nemesis i believe). 6 point immobiliser, black wiring, key pad pin protection etc... recommended by majority of the insurance companies.

as for quicktrak i thought that it's a satellite tracking system - insurance companies have this as a step up from the alarm system. i'd get both.

get a prolock. make sure you put it on the same way as on the instructions (key hole facing windscreen not the seat) - it makes it that much harder to remove. plus the visual deterrent factor is handy.

quiktrak is radio based. you are thinking of navtrak.

navtrak can be defeated by pulling into a undercover car park.

quiktrak you can do this and still find the car.

there is a reason most insurance companies reccomend brant..

installation depends on the shop and the car.(the quality depends on the shop!!)most of the alarms I sell (mongoose,viper,python,cyclops and quiktrak) start form $390 and go up from there. in the case of quiktrak that one is 2k fitted with one year monitoring.

howhow,

what model was yours? (curious- I did a customer call to a local autobarn here and was told $500 for a hornet system.)

re the brant alarm. I would ring brant direct in your area. (form memory its $1000ish-I haven't got my books in front of me.)

for timers all alarms can be wired around them - dont let any shop tell you they cant be. 3 minutes is plenty of time after a HARD run. 1 min is normal for most of the cars I have seen/worked on.

Brant Nemesis cost me $1098 installed in melbourne - got some other features put on whilst i was having the alarm installed so it cost me a few hundred $$$ more. The extra features aren't really necessacity items (eg. window-up) but they sure look cool :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...