Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm in the process of building my RB30DET, but am unsure what pistons to use. I'm using an RB25DE Neo Head. Has any got any info on RB30E, RB30ET, RB25DET, RB25DE, RB26DETT pistons, specifically deck heights and dome / dish cc volumes.

The Neo head has a smaller combustion chamber volume, which with the standard RB30E pistons it'll give me 10.45:1 compression ratio.. well that's what i've worked out :banana:

I'd love to know from someone that's built an RB30DET with a Neo Head what pistons they used and what CR they have.

Thanks.

im doing the same thing but with a NEO RB25DET. I would assume the cc on a turbo/na head would measure the same? The work shop is using CP pistons designed for the rb25/30 33 head. I wonder how they are going to get the desired comp ratio, being that its a smaller cc? And can anyone confirm if the neo exhaust valves are larger then the rb26?

I'm pretty sure the heads are the same bar the cams.

Pistons are what determines the compression ratio on the RB25's isn't it?

Yup, both RB25 neo heads cc around 50-51cc, both RB25 R33 Head are around 63cc.

The only difference in turbo and no turbo neo heads is the cams. Even the valve springs are the same (I thought they'd be different).

Good luck to me trying to find RB30ET pistons in NZ :glare:

im doing the same thing but with a NEO RB25DET. I would assume the cc on a turbo/na head would measure the same? The work shop is using CP pistons designed for the rb25/30 33 head. I wonder how they are going to get the desired comp ratio, being that its a smaller cc? And can anyone confirm if the neo exhaust valves are larger then the rb26?

I would be asking the workshop what they plan to do about this, as it will end up with around 10.5:1 compression

the pistons have been delivered and sent off to enginering along with rods crank etc. I mentoined that the head had smaller cc but i am no mechanic and want to interfer with their jobs. But there are other ways to bring down the comp ratio? Eg: head gasket size and decking of head and block?

Also any particular reason why nissan designed the head to be smaller cc? disadvantages/advantages?

Edited by drgnball34
the pistons have been delivered and sent off to enginering along with rods crank etc. I mentoined that the head had smaller cc but i am no mechanic and want to interfer with their jobs. But there are other ways to bring down the comp ratio? Eg: head gasket size and decking of head and block?

Also any particular reason why nissan designed the head to be smaller cc? disadvantages/advantages?

decking of head and block will increases comp ratio. Removing quench / squish areas in the head will decrease comp ratio (but has associated advantages and disavantages depending on application and in some instances induce knock at lower timing values than the higher comp high quench setup). see below pic of 26 head with quench area removed;

post-34927-1201529808_thumb.jpg

IMO if this workshop is worth their salt they will get a burette and cc the chambers first up . I think it would be highly irresponsible to build a customers engine with aftermarket pistons and not be certain what the static compression ratio was going to be .

Just for the record I'm sure many here would like to KNOW for certain if R33 and R34 chambers are same or different volume . It sounds like some are guessing without knowing for sure .

Cheers A .

So if im running a Neo head (series two stageas run Neos) i should run the RB30ET pistons from ACL, but use say a 1.5mm head gasket to drop the compression?

I will be running a max of 15-17 PSI, through a largish turbo. Aiming for 350kw with supporting mods.

I would do that with maybe a 1.2mm H/G, dont drop the comp much as youll mess with the piston/head clearnace. BUT you need to cc everything, dont go on what ive said, as rb30et pistons vary, and the head may have been decked(mine or yours) at some time which will effect the result.

I am using ACL RB30ET pistons - comp ratio is 8.5:1 with Std Nissan Headgasket.

I am about to build a new bottom end as I want more compression, so will be using Cp pistons.

CP make 2 pistons for the RB30/25/26 ( With R33 head ). So there 8.2:1 piston will come in very close to 9.0:1 with the NEO head - Ill cc everything to confirm but current calculations are around 9.0:1.

I am using ACL RB30ET pistons - comp ratio is 8.5:1 with Std Nissan Headgasket.

I am about to build a new bottom end as I want more compression, so will be using Cp pistons.

Any reason why you want more compression?

Is the car a bit of a dog off boost even though its a 3l?

I want to built one, but I'm not sure what compression I would run.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...