Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I am unable to upload pics up.. If your interested PM me your email and I will send you the pics :P

I have for sale:

2 Pairs of stock GTR exhaust manifolds $70 per pair

Pair of stock GTR dump pipes with heat shields $30 for the pair

Pair of stock GTR cam gears $10 for the pair

Pair of old school HKS BOV for a GTR with a mounting bracket $80

Pair of stock R32 GTR turbos with stock actuators$280

Pair of stock R32 GTR Camshafts $140

Stock RB26 oil and water lines $120

Stock RB26 set of lifters/buckets $120

Stock R32 GTR air box components $20

Stock RB26 twin turbo pipes (yellow minus badge) $120

Stock R32 GTR front pipes with stock cat $30

Stock R33 GTST stock air box with snorkle including Apexi panel filter $160

Stock R33 GTST steering wheel non air bag in moderate to good condtion $20

Stock R33 GTST turbo back exhaust $130

Stock R33 GTST heat shield $5

Stock R33 GTST front and rear swaybars make an offer

R33 GTST Hawk brake pads front (HB179F 630) and rear (HB178F 564) make an offer..

R33 GTST HICAS unit make an offer

R33 GTST O2 sensor bracket $5

R32/33 GTR valley cover badge in good contition $50

Motul RBF 600 brake fluid $20

Blitz Racing black faced mechanical boost guage 60mm 1.5bar $120

Nardi horn button $40

Nardi boss kit for Datsun $20

4 Pioneer speaker covers for 6.5' speaker $20

R33 GTST/GTR air vents (silver) $10

R33 GTST/GTR rear parcel tray vent $10

Arial antenna for R33 SOLD

Stock R33 GTST rims in good condition with tyres SOLD

Delivery will be at buyers cost..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/203577-various-gtr-gtst-parts/
Share on other sites

Further and most likely final price drop.. all PM's will be replied to tomorrow :P

First in with the money here on in gets the goods.. too many people have asked for items to be held then pulled out leaving genuine buyers and myself in limbo ;)

As stated before, make an offer if you think the price isnt fair.. I need these gone soon otherwise most of these parts are going to the tip for the monthly clean up :)

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...