Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Full exhaust with tuned length front pipes, and an ECU with the speed limited and I assume a few other things altered, and that is it power wise.

But your right one tap of the throttle and shes right on boost, I guess it's because I'm still in the early part of the ownership cycle where you notice every little thing about the way your car drives, what the gauges are doing and when etc.

At the moment I have done a mix of highway and stop start driving and I have done ~260K's on half a tank so thats about 12.5L/100K's with normal driving.

I find that not fanging it when cold does wonders for the fuel consumption. Generally I try to avoid giving it to the car when the oil temp gauge is below 70c, that way things are up to operating temp.

You will get poor fuel ecconomy if you use 5th gear at speeds slower than 90km/h, I know some people who use it at 50/60kmh!

Not necessarily - I use 5th gear at 60km/h if I'm holding speed and/or the road is going downhill. The motor isn't labouring at all, in fact it cruises along quite nicely. It's actually pretty surprising how little throttle is needed to hold it at 60 in top gear, unless of course the road rises, in which case you use 4th (or 3rd if it's a hill rather than a rise). Personally, I've found as a general rule of thumb, if I can go another gear higher and not use any more throttle (or even less sometimes, as it doesn't need as many revs) then it'll use less fuel. You can sort of just tell when the engine is happy at a particular rev - do what the car feels like it likes. That's just the way I drive though, it won't work for everyone.

Mine gets given the herbs fairly regularly, and it's very unusual for it not to get at least 450-500km out of a tank, with the majority of that being ligth city driving (driving in the city but not much traffic). Most I've ever got from 65L is around 950km... all highway driving, and it was on the Xmas/NY holiday, on the way to the North Coast, up one of the most ridiculously over-policed highways in the state (Bruce H'way).

hehe that was me who used 5th at 50-60km/h. I stopped doin that now, but still didn't really improve economy. A new 02 sensor and i got about 30km more and still to do a new crank angle sensor. Currently gettin 330-350km from a tank with cat back, bov and filter.....stock boost.

  • 3 weeks later...

I've been keeping a log recently and have got the following figures:

DATE | PRICE PER LITRE | NO. LITRES | TOTAL $ | DISTANCE | L/100km

22/10/02 | 96.7c/L | 26.75L | $25.87 | 218.3km | 12.254

26/10/02 | 97.7c/L | 47.41L | $46.32 | 384km | 12.346

29/10/02 | 93.7c/L | 47.29L | $44.31 | 395.0km | 11.972

All distances include heavy trafic, while the last entry included the cruise down the wollongong on the 27th.

What sort of figures are people getting with tuned Power FCs under similar conditions? I'm aiming at getting one in december after my final exam ever at uni (if I pass).

I have a air filter, exhaust, razo sticker, and standard boost.

Mark

sir ricelot you forgot to tell everyone you get those economy figures on *REGULAR UNLEADED*

*gasp*

i got 400 easily per tank, sometimes 500..........even got 700 once and i drive like a frigging maniac, go the s15s :D (this is on 12psi too)

you perth boys must remember that city driving in perth (or canberra etc) is about the same as highway driving in sydney, the same level of traffic stop start etc.

there is no comparison for peak hour traffic in sydney, unless you're comparing speeds with the push bike weaving thru traffic, in which he eaaaaaaaaaaasily wins........damn onarun and his bike.

  • 2 months later...

can i just add here, yes after 3 months...a powerfc has made no difference to fuel efficiency, however, i do have 500nm of torque over the whole rev range!? :P

for the sake of the original question asked....reset your ecu, try and use the same petrol brand, bp ultimate or whatever and manage your right foot....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...