Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

and what for? thieves usually bring their own steering wheels anyhow

That is a ridiculous generalised statement... Unless you're a thief and you can tell me that YES you do in fact take your own steering wheel - in which case I'd call you a low-life piece of shit :P

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

they're stupid, you can't use your airbag with those shitty illegal hubs attached..

and what for? thieves usually bring their own steering wheels anyhow

Airbag? What airbag? ohhh I forgot, my airbag sits in the passenger seat, he's name is Mark :P

but removing an airbag steering wheel off a GT-T and installing a hub release + an aftermarket steering is stupid.

And yes, theives do come equiped, why else do you see cars go missing all the time? Quick release steering wheels do nothing if the car is on a tilt tray.

but removing an airbag steering wheel off a GT-T and installing a hub release + an aftermarket steering is stupid.

And yes, theives do come equiped, why else do you see cars go missing all the time? Quick release steering wheels do nothing if the car is on a tilt tray.

Why do cars go missing all the time? Because people dont have immobilisers and decent security. Seriously, 9 out of 10 threads posted up here of stolen cars are simply due to the fact that people that didnt have a decent alarm on their car, which could mean that a majority of thieves are joyriders and amateurs - otherwise there would be a lot more high-end cars equipped with decent security stolen!!

I've never heard of a car which has been stolen when there was no steering wheel on the car. Sure, it could possibly happen if a car was parked in a location where a tow truck could access it and it was towed away - in that case only GPS/GSM tracking will help!! Not having a steering wheel on the car means that you instantly rule out 9 out of 10 possible thieves: the amateurs and joyriders - that's pretty damn good for under $100 in my opinion! Sure, thats an estimated statistic but I'm certain that the large majority of thieves arent pro's!

As for taking the air bag wheel off - thats a personal preference. Safety vs security!

My airbag steering wheel is f**ked, it sets the horn off at random times... So either I live without a horn, run the risk of a small in-cabin fire and live with that rattleing noise and due to a near crash the other day in the wet, f**k THAT, or I change the steering wheel...

I've had that car for over 3 years, and the steering wheel was the last thing I wanted to change...

Even though the only experience I have ever had with and air bag was being in a crash, my head stopping before it hit anything, then the airbag exploding onto my face...

heaps o' fun...

Sadly I know this... But mine is physically broken, and I can't exactly afford another one right now, not to mention I don't think you can buy them new from anywhere... only 2nd hand...

Don't spose you would know where I can get an aftermarket airbag one, or even a new factory replacement for only 1 leg?

you can buy them new from nissan, not cheap though.

not sure of any aftermarket options. anyway, I'm not necissarily saying don't do it. just be aware it has potential for some fairly decent legal (and possibly physical) grief down the track.

:(

At least Blitz is on my side. I see so many morons fit these stupid quick release hubs, and delete their life saving airbag steering wheel.

What you also don't see is that, once that airbag is remove, the entire airbag system will go into diagnostics/limp mode and neither the pyrotechnic seatbelt pretensioners nor the passenger airbag (if equiped) will explode/activate, i.e. you and your mates out the window on the ground in an event of an accident.

If you think I'm a complete moron, so be it.

OR you could be like me and have a car that never had an airbag. thats y series one's have the fatass reo bar

ive often thought about getting a new wheel but the offsets of the boss and wheel confuse me, when this one snaps in half i will start looking.

as for rattles, in sI the plastic clips helping hold the horn on snap, and while not effecting the horn-hold-in-ness they do rattle around when you turn the wheel etc. check for something similar dr doof its easy enough. maybe its not as shagged as you think

Good thing these thieves brought their own steering wheel... Yet another car stolen which had no alarm/immobiliser :stupid:

my belief is, if a crook or some asswipe wants your car they will get it. That is steal it, jack it, or whatever. Remember that incident that happened not long ago where those 2 pathetic low lives jacked a man's XR6 at knife point?

Exactly...

So by your rationality no-one should take any preventative measures to protect their car whatsoever, because the thieves are just going to jack you at knife point anyway!? Puhlease! :laughing-smiley-014:

So by your rationality no-one should take any preventative measures to protect their car whatsoever, because the thieves are just going to jack you at knife point anyway!? Puhlease! :laughing-smiley-014:

Its true Jon, they come fully prepared - They even bring their own engine just in case you removed yours as a 'theft prevention measure'

LOL @ Blitz :stupid:

OR you could be like me and have a car that never had an airbag. thats y series one's have the fatass reo bar

ive often thought about getting a new wheel but the offsets of the boss and wheel confuse me, when this one snaps in half i will start looking.

as for rattles, in sI the plastic clips helping hold the horn on snap, and while not effecting the horn-hold-in-ness they do rattle around when you turn the wheel etc. check for something similar dr doof its easy enough. maybe its not as shagged as you think

Yeah I'm going to take it apart tonight if I can... It may just be a matter of screwing stuff back in... but not having a horn is starting to shit me, I never realised how often I use it... I have gone to wave at other skylines and stupidly punched my window cause it's up...

Plus, the stock steering wheel isn't centre balanced any way, it's unevenly weighted... which does annoy me...

Plus, the stock steering wheel isn't centre balanced any way, it's unevenly weighted... which does annoy me...

say what? how could you figure that out? steering wheel is out of balance? that's a new one!

i been using a QR kit for about 1yr now and it has never come off on its own, nor has it affected my steering alignment, works perfect, and the wheel sitting closer is nice, more control and i dont look like a fully sik hoon sitting in the backseat not able to view the front of the car loll

its good, cus the usual thief will look at the car, oh no steering wheel phuc it too much hassle to steal this one move onto the next import car...

if they want to take the car it'l take em at least 20min to get a tow truck and jack it up, too much effort and hassle..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I was using the wiring diagram I have So 12.74V is coming into the rear Fuel Pump relay as I measured.  When I turn the key to ON im getting 0.6V to the Fuel Pump plug; which i assume is backfeed voltage and doesnt include the 12V from ignition power.  The rear relay is working and being triggered.  From the diagram I clearly see the rear relay 80 = Rear Relay going into the Body/H loom (R-27) 27 = Fuel Pump plug going into the Body/H loom (T-20) 40 = Short Connector (R-27) I'm reading 12.74V on the blue/black wire which is the power for the Fuel Pump   From this diagram I can see the Ignition relay goes into the front and up to the ignition  2 = Fuel Pump Relay <1M> (R-27) 37 = ING Relay <1M> I started from the pump using this reference Which the way I read it (referencing Nissan wiring color codes) is: Pin Wire Color Function 1 B/P (Black/Pink) Ground 2 L/W (Blue/White)        ECU Trigger 3 SB (Sky Blue) Fuel Pump 5 L/B (Blue/Black) 12V Constant Tested SB to SB on Fuel Pump for continuity - confirmed Tested negative on Fuel Pump to 12V battery and L/B - confirmed 12V Pulled the relay putting 12V between Pin 1 & 2 and testing continuity on Pin 3 & 4 - confirmed relay   So that has me looking at this part of the circuit to understand whats happening here...and im still confused. From best I can tell; the disconnect is back to my previous diagram; between Ignition Relay and Fuel Pump Relay...which yet again; afaik is where the immobiliser should.    Thats what I was trying to explain to GTSboy; im not trying to fix it myself; yet I seem to have to get a Masters in Electrical Engineering (while im busy doing my actual job of DevOps & Cloud Engineering) somehow.  I just wanted more expert opinions; or more so that what I tested is correct and proves it to something around that area; to go back to the alarm tech (for a 3rd time) that he needs to fix it. He keeps telling me its not the alarm. He lives on the complete other side of the city so i understand not wanting to make a trip but as I said before if its the alarm it should be up to him to fix it. But he's adament its not; even though I pointed out the FP was immobilised through the original alarm. To my mind; it seems that the ECU is sending the signal; but the ignition is not getting 12V down the line.       
    • Maybe also really stiffly sprung track cars. Get the inside wheel up in a corner and all the fun stops. Also me sometimes (rarely) when I have to stand on the brake to convince the diff to drive the wheel that is still on the ground when I'm trying to diagonally get over severe driveway entrance, etc.
    • I feel like I'm missing something. You had an authorised installer come out and install a new alarm. Post install the car doesn't start, and you aren't getting the installer back to fix what they did wrong?
    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
×
×
  • Create New...