Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 51
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yes camber is the key, I have camber on the rears but only due to the lowering, how quickly do you go through tyres, I was basically planning on getting smaller tyres.

I have not hit front or rears except for big mups since rolling the rears and taking the liners off the front and bending the tabs up.

How much were your adjustale camber arms ? for the rears

Nice car to mate, does anyone know if you need to cover the small wiring under the left hand front liners ?

Nice car to mate.

I am going to take the rims off this weekend and put the stockers back on, then leave them off until i get a good solution.

Just not sure what that is these are my options I think:

1-Camber with exisiting rear tyres but they will wear out quickly

2-Smaller tyres 235 or 245.

3-Both of the above

4-Buy a Nissan pulsar and have an easy automotove life lol

Edited by Mark0

not reading whole thread so dont know if this has been said or if u sorted it. Get castor rods and put more castor on. That will move your front tyres forward. Making for better handling and no scrubbing. And get coilovers if u dont have them, car might not aborb bumps so much and wont scrub casue will be stiffer

I have the white line camber kit on mine ( front & rear) didn't need to go adjustable camber arms. Depends on how much you drive. if you do about 15000k's a year then that should be ok, my car is only a weekend warrior so doesn't bother me. i wouldn't worry about it rubbing the guard liner so much, they are flexible and won't do any damage to the tyres.

Having castor on the front will help turn in, however your front tyres will rub under full lock. i just got a heat gun and moulded the liner (when its hot) to accommodate for the rubbing & worked a treat

Yer I have tein Super Street coil overs, Think I will go changing the tyres options, Camber arms fitted will cost me about 395 but I think I would need a lot of camber to get them under my gaurds, thus increasing tyre wear pretty badly

I am still undsecided what to do, is the law on the wheel under the rime that it needs to be under the top of the guard only ? My mate at Bearepairs said the law now is that the tyre needs to be under the guard not the rim, either way I might post a pic of the amount it sticks out and see if you guys think that camber is the way to go or if ity would require to much camber.

How quickly do you go through a set of rear tyres n1

  • 5 years later...

if its only the plastics cut them back, i did that for mine (r33 GTST)... better

flairing and pumping of guards are expensive, rolling of the guards just end up a mess, you will end up in tears

i've just lowered my coilovers (90mm ground to chassis) but the front tyres are scrubbing the guards, do the plastic linings of the guards do much or will it not matter if i take them off?

  • 2 weeks later...

I'm pretty much the same, I have 17x10 RPF1's +18 and 275/40/17's on the back and the inner guard lip does cut into the side wall of the tyre if i have passengers in the back or hard cornering at the track.

Recommendation Sydney Area :- "Sydney Guard Rolling"

Proprietor :- Nelson

Work Done :- Flaring/Pumping/Rolling

Convenience:- Mobile Service

Contact :- 0432109331

Referred to Me By:- Wholesale Suspension

My Story:- My 'new' EVO has had new 8.75" wide rims with new RE002 rubber put on > scrubbing at the rears with the guard lips cutting into the tyres' side walls whenever I have passengers.

Nelson got to my place by 3.50pm and worked on these guards by attaching a hub bracket and carefully applying a roller.

He was very very patient due to his concern over the likelihood of cracking paint (due to previous nicki applied).

Nelson worked on it till sundown > no cracked paint > cost was $150 > terry - happy

Recommendation Sydney Area :- "Sydney Guard Rolling"

Proprietor :- Nelson

Work Done :- Flaring/Pumping/Rolling

Convenience:- Mobile Service

Contact :- 0432109331

Referred to Me By:- Wholesale Suspension

My Story:- My 'new' EVO has had new 8.75" wide rims with new RE002 rubber put on > scrubbing at the rears with the guard lips cutting into the tyres' side walls whenever I have passengers.

Nelson got to my place by 3.50pm and worked on these guards by attaching a hub bracket and carefully applying a roller.

He was very very patient due to his concern over the likelihood of cracking paint (due to previous nicki applied).

Nelson worked on it till sundown > no cracked paint > cost was $150 > terry - happy

That's definitely some useful information there. This is someone who takes pride in his work and it shows. Thanks Terry for the info and hats off to Nelson :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...