Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey people, bought an manifold off ebay (yes i know cheap copies crack etc etc) however this one looks really quite good! It reminds me how a guy that i knew a few years ago used to build them himself.

The welds look good.. its a tuned lowmount manifold (guy states was pretty much designed for HKS turbos and also has a split dump he can supply for different flange with the GT3037.

$400 + $35 postage

$116 for manifold gasket from nissan.

seems ilke a cheap option he states 15-25KW Gain from this manifold.. (i can see how as factory manifold is not a tuned length and this one looks well ported and i cant see any difference between this one and a DRIFT one or equiv that sells at autobarn for $1000. (i also know custom ones sell for this price as well) but really? what do you guys think? even the bolts look easily accessable which is normally a problem. ive posted some pics!! Guy sells them from South Australia.. so fellow aussie. He did say he has to order them so i assume hes not manafacturing them.

post-46561-1202290372_thumb.jpg post-46561-1202290386_thumb.jpg post-46561-1202290397_thumb.jpg post-46561-1202290411_thumb.jpg post-46561-1202290558_thumb.jpg

Sellers item description:

Low mount stainless steel turbo manifold suits all Nissan Skylines R32, R33 & R34 with RB20DET & RB25DET Engines.

Tune Length Runners, with Excellent Custom Collector Design!

Bolts in stock position with no mods!

All mandrel bent tubing comprising of stainless steel all TIG Welded, very strong and will never rust.

Comes with highly polished finish.

Ported and Hi-flowed, and will increase turbo spool and we have seen power increase by 15-25rwkw depending on turbo/engine combination.

Increase performance, torque and looks all in one go!

Edited by SLYDA
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/204846-400-low-mount-manifold/
Share on other sites

this guy is also on the sau forum im not sure what user id, i asked a few questions and all i got from him where one word answers ,that was from ebay .i did not contact him on the forum cos maybe he did not wont people to know he was a business selling in the private sale area. tell us how you go and show a dyno be for and after if you can

they definately look good when they havent been installed, but its the actual quality of the s/s that lets them down. I havent had one that has lasted anymore than 12months, and allthough after the first week of it being installed it looks great with its golden glow, that tends to change shortly after to a dull brown. With the extra power you will being making with that turbo (and heat) i would be suprised if it lasted 12months.

Not saying its a bad thing, some people cant justify spending over a grand on a manifold, but when you replacing them annually it starts to get annoying imo. Hope this one lasts abit longer for you and good luck with the dyno :D

i just paid closer to 2k.... trust me (after 10 years in the trade) you get what you pay for and i was happy to fork it out..

The design on the one youve posted is actually very good (i posted the whole story in another thread) but as for material it is hard to tell without seeing it personally.

hmm.. ill have a look at the flanges when i get it - may be worthwhile doing,

asked the guy a few questions and he replied:

"Hi Champ, ill be sending your manifold off tomorrow, also included will be gaskets for the manifold to head and manifold to turbo as well as nuts and bolts to secure turbo to manifold,you might be able to reuse you orginial gasket as long as it doesnt break. Change all the studs to secure the manifold to your head with new ones they tend to brake, you can use rb30 vl ones they are the same on all the rb's, on two of the runners due to the tight bends you will need to use 10mm length studs ( So shorter ones)."

I actually changed the studs 2 years ago and got 3 drilled but i got them all out and will replace them again anyway.

This one has a better collector setup than most ebay jobs.

the collector setup was the only reason i bought it, looked really well designed and it was a tuned length, looked like it had been TIG welded quite well. the cheap ebay ones look slapped together, welds are shocking, its also a low mount not a high mount like the one in the displayed pic.

post-46561-1202458995_thumb.jpg

This is a cheap $200 ebay top mount manifold that is claimed to be Stainless SU304..

Edited by SLYDA
I was tempted to go for the same manifold as you SLYDA but opted to go high mount with the GT35R.

i would have gone top mount as well however i bought it as a HKS 3037 Pro S kit, so it already had the suction pipe made up, all the lines etc etc, didnt want to complicate things, or i guess draw it to the cops attention there was a huge big turbo sitting up there haha.. and GT35R was just a BITTT out of my price range! ill consider selling the 3037 after i have a built motor.

Edited by SLYDA

My turbo has no internal gate, it looked like it was going to be a pain in the ass to get a gate pipe onto the lowmount manifold and it also looked like the turbo would hit the strut tower. I would have preferred to keep the turbo low but for ease, it's going to be high mount ;)

Good luck! interested to see how it pans out :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...