Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are only 3 ways to achieve over 2.8 litres, so it's not hard to work through them. I eliminated the 86/84mm combo as it gives 29.3 not 29.5. If I had known it was that capacity then the combo is obvious, although I still don't like the rod stroke ratio.

A questions if I may;

Why did you go for 86mm? Since you have to use tall liners I would have thought 87mm would have been more user friendly, plus give some more (0.7L) capacity.

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3666604
Share on other sites

  • Replies 241
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

There are only 3 ways to achieve over 2.8 litres, so it's not hard to work through them. I eliminated the 86/84mm combo as it gives 29.3 not 29.5. If I had known it was that capacity then the combo is obvious, although I still don't like the rod stroke ratio.

A questions if I may;

Why did you go for 86mm? Since you have to use tall liners I would have thought 87mm would have been more user friendly, plus give some more (0.7L) capacity.

Cheers

Gary

I chose 86mm as it leaves a little more rigidity in the block, and allows me to go up .5 or 1mm later if need be.

Capacity is 2.93, but everyone rounds up don't they?? so 2.95 was closest.

cheers,

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3667362
Share on other sites

Well its Friday night and 7.02pm and still at work...trying to break into the safe so that i can have the R32 with the mostest ;)

Firstly, this is one of the better viral marketing campaigns I've seen, onya Benno!

Secondly, and this is close to my heart and for that matter my wallet, how does one get rid of the heat that this engine would generate on the track. My measly 350kw is sending my water temps into the oh shit zone after 3 laps on a 28 degreee day.... :banana:

How the hell did Gibson and the boys do it for 1,000 k's. :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3667616
Share on other sites

I chose 86mm as it leaves a little more rigidity in the block, and allows me to go up .5 or 1mm later if need be.

Capacity is 2.93, but everyone rounds up don't they?? so 2.95 was closest.

cheers,

Ben

shouldnt u just round down to 2.9? only time i've seen capacity mentioned to 2 decimal places is on the old 6.75 bentley motors...

anyway what turbos? are they custom pistons? what cams? spill motherfcuker!! :(:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3668219
Share on other sites

I chose 86mm as it leaves a little more rigidity in the block, and allows me to go up .5 or 1mm later if need be.

Capacity is 2.93, but everyone rounds up don't they?? so 2.95 was closest.

cheers,

Ben

U don't happen to have a 6.3 AMG do you?

LOL just kidding. Congrat for the great result.

My T517Z produced similar results on a stroked RB as well. I wish I didn't leave the dyno in the car in SA and can post it up for comparision.

Keen to know what turbo you used?

Edited by 9krpm
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3668672
Share on other sites

Very flash Ben, or rather impressivie as I know you are not a flashy guy. Awesome dyno graph also.

Starting to look like a 300zx dyno graph although mine was on race fuel so not same. lol Waiting..........

Extra bit of engine capacity and stoke gives a lot more down low.

zed456kw.gif

Below is my Z dyno graph on the rleft compared to two RB26 GTR's with the middle one with HKS GTRS turbo's and the one far right with lag for sale is T88.

COMPARER.gif

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3671908
Share on other sites

Very flash Ben, or rather impressivie as I know you are not a flashy guy. Awesome dyno graph also.

Starting to look like a 300zx dyno graph although mine was on race fuel so not same. lol Waiting..........

Extra bit of engine capacity and stoke gives a lot more down low.

zed456kw.gif

Below is my Z dyno graph on the rleft compared to two RB26 GTR's with the middle one with HKS GTRS turbo's and the one far right with lag for sale is T88.

COMPARER.gif

i would like to point out that its not exactly apples to apples...

the rb's are coming on a little later but reving a lot further.

useful rev range and average power in this band is what u want :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3672235
Share on other sites

Secondly, and this is close to my heart and for that matter my wallet, how does one get rid of the heat that this engine would generate on the track. My measly 350kw is sending my water temps into the oh shit zone after 3 laps on a 28 degreee day.... :D

How the hell did Gibson and the boys do it for 1,000 k's. :D

50 mm PWR radiator

Large Oil cooler, mounted in the side vents (NOT in front of the radiator)

Tube and fin intercooler (NOT bar and plate)

If you are consistenbtly using more than 8,000 rpm (on the track) then an N1 water pump is worthwhile

Make sure you bleed ALL of the the air out of the coolant system

Cheers

Gary

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3672243
Share on other sites

50 mm PWR radiator - I have a 40mm one with the shroud - sounds like I need a bigger one

Large Oil cooler, mounted in the side vents (NOT in front of the radiator) - Done - sort of - I have a side mounted HKS 16 row one - maybe need a bigger one.

Tube and fin intercooler (NOT bar and plate) - doh - have an AVO bar and plate

If you are consistenbtly using more than 8,000 rpm (on the track) then an N1 water pump is worthwhile - Got one

Make sure you bleed ALL of the the air out of the coolant system - New engine - I assume that is ok.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/206406-rb29-wow/page/6/#findComment-3672333
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Car has been running great, I've put about 300km's of break in time on it. First thing that stands out with properly sealing rings is no more noticeable crankcase smell coming out of my catch can. This may seem insignificant, but the constant smell while driving around was infuriating. It's also nice to see my oil level remain stable. Two new issues have developed that I only noticed this weekend though. There's a very noticeable driveline vibration past 100kmh. I only noticed it now as I've been babying it under 100kmh in the backroads. This comes as no surprise as I'm running a one-piece shaft, and I paid zero attention to my driveshaft angle when I put everything back in. I also have a fair bit of voltage drop on hot starts. The starter audibly is forcing. No issues on cold start though. I must not have removed all the paint under my main block ground during assembly. I'll try and take care of both those issues this week once the kids are asleep.  I also received all the parts I was missing for my direct port setup. I will hopefully have pictures of that up soon. I'm hoping to get back on the dyno the week of June 30th as I'll be on vacation. I'm confident I should be able to make north of 500rwkw on pump gas and WMI. I'll go back again later this summer with E98, but I want to confirm my ethanol content sensor is working properly first. I've never seen it read anything but 11%. This makes sense for our 10% ethanol content pump gas here, but I would expect the occasional movement between fill ups. 
    • 75% complete. Will now need to get a new axle with 5x114.3 hubs and then figure out how to customize some mudguards for it once the wheels are on.
    • Trailer prep is underway... Lined up the wheel to get a rough indication of how it would sit Then removed all the bits (as far as possible) and gave the frame a light sand and quick lick of paint   Then added some carpet
    • okay, so I figured this out, removed needles and reinstalled after swapping the gauge face on my triple gauge for my ER34, all work and look good. I tried to do the same for the main cluster, but the main cluster gauge faces are dished, the replacement gauge face are flat, so due to the dish in the org face ,mounting backing plate (clear) and depth of the needle, the flat gauge face will not work. I notice that R34 gtr gauges are flat, appears to be different clear backing plate that aren't dished. are these available, or what have others done to install flat gauge faces?
    • Cheers mate. Seems some people get lucky others don't. It looks like the motor was detonating (to be expected if it was overboosting I suppose) as the pistons had a lot of detonation damage, and the bearings were stuffed. The bores were very scoured too, not sure if that's from the pistons or bits of ceramic turbo. By the by now. Have been trying to avoid the rabbit hole too much on the rebuild, and there's been a few hurdles along the way, but with any luck I'll have the car back soon™. Might even pop up a thread then.  
×
×
  • Create New...