Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

lol...where did you hear that you Wally?...im sure that was only in your mind.

Im talking about non-obtrusive, quiet, unasuming, but very powerful stock looking and sounding cars. I hate driving my car...even the small distance from the shed to home (and you know how close that is). This car i could have easily driven around in all bloody day.

i didn't throw that RB30 bottom end in the tip to regret it...it was exactly that...rubbish. :)

lol, ok ok

Shouldnt you be calling the tip for me soon? :(

  • Replies 241
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Exactly....it makes 10+psi @ 2500, hence the big torque early.

Some more details:

Crank is a custom billet 12 counterbalance job. Don't try to rev those RB30 cranks too high!

Rods are SR20. Don't sweat the R/S ratio. 1.5-1.65 has proven to be ideal/desirable for a 4 valver in the 1-9000rpm range.

Modern materials and rod/piston designs mean longevity is not an issue, and shorter rod is a stronger,lighter rod.

Pistons are custom.

Camshafts are Nissan OEM.

Turbos are currently Garrett -5's, (about to make way for a very slightly bigger set).

We have now have it tuned at 24lb and it makes 468kw with plenty more through the mid-range.

I'll post a new dynograph when I get a chance.

Lots of sneaky tricks in this one. I probably shouldn't have sold it after all..... :)

cheers,

Garrett -5's and 468kw ??? this must have been on an engine dyno...right? :(

Was the crank originally an RD28?

i thought the limit of -5's was alot less? without being 100% familiar with 'dash fives', are they one specifc turbo, or are there different sizes? last GTR i saw running -5's was an R32, making ~425rwkw on 116 octane, and it appeared there was nothing more to give from the turbo side of things, unless there are bigger -5's?

yes i envy this motor...

its power is like electricity...you cannot see it...you cannot hear it...you cannot smell it...but boy you can feel it.

Dave, Ron Harrop can help you out with a crank...he is in Melbourne.

Edited by DiRTgarage

They wouldn't make that power on pump fuel without some enlargerment. The compressors simply do not flow enough air. Hence why I asked if it was engine dyno'd....since the best engineering shops will only tune this way. Torque can be measured to .1 ft lb which gives a very very good indication of cylinder pressures.

I wouldn't be suprised to see that type of response on a 2.9 from modified -5's, baby cams help aswell

  • 1 month later...
They wouldn't make that power on pump fuel without some enlargerment. The compressors simply do not flow enough air. Hence why I asked if it was engine dyno'd....since the best engineering shops will only tune this way. Torque can be measured to .1 ft lb which gives a very very good indication of cylinder pressures.

I wouldn't be suprised to see that type of response on a 2.9 from modified -5's, baby cams help aswell

Ben has tried more than 5 turbo combos on this engine alone, while logging temps and pressures.

You would be amazed at the power some of these little turbos can make.

As far as I know the turbos are off the shelf -5's.

.64 turbine housing.

I'm glad you assume the compressors wont make that much power.....apparently it is actually the turbine that is getting close to the flow limit.

Same turbos on a F355 Ferrari also make over 450kw @ wheels on only 16psi (different dyno).....

My own track car with 2.6 engine and -5's makes over 400kw @ wheels on pump.

This engine is the culmination of 8 years of Race Pace RB development.

It was built as a challenge for a stock appearing/mannered engine to have monster power and response.

In the last 12 months it has seen over 10,000km of road use and various track/tarmac rally events and is still going strong.

I want it!

Edited by JFKGTR

Seeing as the car with this engine is for sale, I might as well spill some of the 'Ben's secret specs'

Custom billet crankshaft 84mm stroke

Custom titanium rods

Custom forged pistons 86.5mm bore

Custom chamber/port shape

Variable cam timing

12 injectors

Thats the basics, Im sure there are lots more tricks in there.

Edited by JFKGTR

I cant confirm it - but have heard rumour that the was some deal done too.

Something about soul and sold to the devil. My personal theroy is that he is the devil - or at least the dark son of rajab of RB's

On the subject of secrets - I want to know how he keeps his shirt so clean?

:)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You're now in the unrestricted member group so upload away! 
    • TBH, it sounds like the threads on the bolt are fubar in a specific section. Most likely as you've been working it back and forth it has torn threads out, as you loosen the bolt, this section enters the nut, now you're spinning a round shaft inside the nut, there's no threads here.   Use something similar to a claw on a hammer that will fit either side of the bolt head and try to apply downward force while also undoing it. The idea is to attempt to catch a thread, or just rip the f**ker out. Caution on ripping out, as it could bend/maime/mangle what the captive nut attaches to. If the captive nut is actually okay, you could do the dirty part of cutting the head off the bolt, then cut a slit in the end of the thread that's now exposed and then screw it up and into the area the captive nut is until it falls out the other side. However, this does risk the remainder of the bolt rusting over time and damaging near the captive nut and also making it rust. However, so can cutting pieces of panel work out to access this area if you don't reseal it properly.
    • Well, every piece of information on that part when you track it back to Nitto says it's for a KIT of theirs. It is also designed thicker to be stronger. And they speak about a specific harmonic balancer bolt they supply for the whole setup.
    • Techniques for removing stuck bolts are: hitting the bolt head with a hammer, heating the bolt to red hot then letting it cool and working it back and forth like you are already doing. AFAIK the idea is to try to crush whatever material is stuck between the threads (and heat also melts locktite but that's almost certainly not relevant in this case).
    • Yuh, I think it works with the Nitto gear only. I presume that you're not also using the Nitto gear? Watch the video. Compare the interface between the Nitto gear and washer (on the gear side) vs the stocker and decide if you think the Nitto gear is different from stock there.
×
×
  • Create New...