Jump to content
SAU Community

Hks Gtrs Finally Tuned

PM-R33

By PM-R33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 62
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted (edited)
I really dont know how much to read into torque

This was my readout with standard everything really

it is an auto and in second gear i think that make abit of a difference with gear ratios etc ( not sure the exact ratio of 2nd compared to a manual in 3rd gear)

Hmm something dodge with that torque readout. Maybe some others more knowledge than I can explain how it could read that. Maybe the one above is also subject to discrepancy via how its measured... but stock doing 800Nm is a 'off' looking lol Also... you're power looks insanely high for a stock GTT/GTST type engine. Aren't dyno runs usually done in 4th or 3rd? Don't recall seeing one in 2nd before.

Maybe this is why my mechanic said he doesn't usually bother measuring torque cos it depends on the dyno setup too heavily? or how its used... or something

Ok yeah im sure that having the car in 2nd gear (not a 1:1 gear ratio) is going to affect the readout somewhat....

Time for a new dyno operator. Doing a dyno run in second is compeltely stupid. Auto's need to be locked into 3rd gear.

Your torque figure is all hot air, realistically, it will be a bit above 500nm.

I've got 720nm with 314rwkw in 4th gear, so if I did my car in second gear, I'd have about 1000nm...

And people wonder why I'm always questioning dyno readouts.. Especially those with a 30degree difference between their ambient and Intake temperatures...

oh, and this is a real curve, done in 4th gear..

1.jpg

Edited by The Mafia
WARLORD Veteran

WARLORD

Posted
Posted (edited)

Your torque figure is all hot air, realistically, it will be a bit above 500nm.

I've got 720nm with 314rwkw in 4th gear, so if I did my car in second gear, I'd have about 1000nm...

And people wonder why I'm always questioning dyno readouts.. Especially those with a 30degree difference between their ambient and Intake temperatures...

oh, and this is a real curve, done in 4th gear..

I think my torque level takes a nice big dump on yours..[/quo

having your hand on it again as i see..

don't be blind have a look again 693 is not 700 and 844 is 844 and your afr is all over the place great tune.

mainline dynos do not lie .

Edited by WARLORD
The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

hand isn't on anything, because how the hell could a smaller turbo make more torque than one significantly bigger?

It doesn't make sense at all.

Oh, and I compared my dyno to the other one done in second gear, not yours. BUt I still find it hard to believe that you are making 800nm from a GTRS - thats not correct. The turbo is simply too small to make that kind of torque.

There is something fishy about your dyno run -

* what gear was it in?

* I'm no expert at dyno settings, but ours are different, most likely why yours is higher.

* Do you have diff gears etc?

Something isn't right.

WARLORD Veteran

WARLORD

Posted
Posted (edited)
hand isn't on anything, because how the hell could a smaller turbo make more torque than one significantly bigger?

It doesn't make sense at all.

Oh, and I compared my dyno to the other one done in second gear, not yours. BUt I still find it hard to believe that you are making 800nm from a GTRS - thats not correct. The turbo is simply too small to make that kind of torque.

There is something fishy about your dyno run -

* what gear was it in?

* I'm no expert at dyno settings, but ours are different, most likely why yours is higher.

* Do you have diff gears etc?

Something isn't right.

sorry for the last comment.about your hand, i thought it was for me .

yes its right is your engine full rebuilt with cams and pistons and rods and plenum ect ,if you have any questions on it ill give you the number of the guy who built my engine and you can call him.

this is a older dyno look at the afr if yours was a little like mine same boost you would make more power

post-26570-1203665450_thumb.jpg

Edited by WARLORD
The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

well, this is how i see it - THe rods and pistons would make no difference at all to the figures, yours will just last longer.

The cams, well, you have cams, and I have water methanol injection.

So that would balance it out a fair bit.

Strange one this one.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What cams have you guys found to be the best for the GTRS setup? Tomei Poncams 256/256, HKS cams 256/256 or 256/264? Thinking about chucking the cams in a few months time. Just not sure on which ones to go, thinking about the Poncams.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Either that or MAJOR head mods required to fit; possibly also need to go solid lifters :thumbsup:

Hmmm i think i might stick to the poncams for the time being, don't think my wallet is going to like doing major headwork at the moment lol. I've done a bit of searching on whether the HKS 256/264 setup is better then say a Poncam 256/256 for my amount of mods, just everyone has so many different opinions on it. Obviously for a more extreme setup the larger cams would be good, just not sure for my setup what would give the best results.

WARLORD Veteran

WARLORD

Posted
Posted
well, this is how i see it - THe rods and pistons would make no difference at all to the figures, yours will just last longer.

The cams, well, you have cams, and I have water methanol injection.

So that would balance it out a fair bit.

Strange one this one.

i see your 1/4 mile time and you got a 114mile/hour, last time i went i got 118 mile/hour it with a bad start well a totally shit one really ,i happen to see 2rismo who thank god was trying to help me out and he was pretty sure that i should get a 11.8 but the rain came and that was the end of supernats .so back to what i said be for the car is what it is whether you want to believe it or not.also pistons are 20 thou over size reco head plenum ect don't know if it makes a difference on your scale of things!!!!!

at the end of the day this is all starting to be come a school quarrel over who has the better toy!!!

so if it makes you feel better you have the better toy !!

have a look if you want to .

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Mo...tml&hl=gtrs

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

Just trying to find some answers. THis torque reading is fairly high, and imo too high for a GTRS so I am wondering why for a number of reasons:

1. Maybe I could replicate it on my setup

2. Maybe My setup is low on torque

3. Is the dyno reading incorrectly

Just a note - 118mph is a high trap speed. My mate with an XR6T ran 118mph with 310rwkw and 900nm.

Are you sure you're running 260rwkw or could you be higher, but the dyno actually read less?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • GTSBoy
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • sunsetR33
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...