Jump to content
SAU Community

Spark Plugs


Recommended Posts

Guest kirby_armstrong

Just decied to change the plugs in my R33, and got a pretty big shock (no pun intended) when I got some prices on the Platinum plugs, It already had AUTOLITE AP 392-11 plugs in it. I cross refenced it with NGK and got the part number of pfr5g-11 ($20.99ea) for the platinum ones and BKR5EIX-11 ($21.99ea) for the iridium,

Question???

Whats the difference between them other than price.

And can anybody get them cheaper any where else????

I am also chasing a HKS or Trust Dump pipe for a R33 GTS-T I've rang JMS and Just Jap and they dont have any brands that I know.

Thanks for your help guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2070-spark-plugs/
Share on other sites

Guys from my understanding and talking to the fools at the local auto shops, I though that the platinum plugs were better than the iridium plugs, and that the iridiums were marketed for dunnydores that wanted better than copper, but couldn't afford a better car or plugs??

So I guess the question is, which is better, which is more expensive and which is better in a turbo skyline?

maybe we could have some suggestions from users of both, that might help the rest of us when paying for $20 plugs

(At least we don't have to get "performance leads" ahahahahaha)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2070-spark-plugs/#findComment-38350
Share on other sites

hitnrun,

I looked into it also, some boring nights at work i tell ya.

The iridiums are NGK's better plug, but they only come with a fat gap (1.1mm)... thats where I am having problems with it missing at the moment.

The iridiums rrp is ~$21 and the platinums are ~$18... but, i'll be going back to copper with a 0.6mm gap.

The iridiums were fantastic when new, the car idled better and was different when cold, but now they are just **** (well, i hope its the plugs causing the problem)...

Anyway, not very informative, but thats me! :P

Christian

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2070-spark-plugs/#findComment-38401
Share on other sites

NGK Iridium’s / Platinum’s / Copper’s

I've tried the odd plug in the near on 3yrs of GTS25t ownership & after being told by a few different local suppliers of NGK plugs that they didn't have a 7 heat range iridium to suit my application I decided to settle on VX's, which have been bloody excellent to date!.

Why 7's you ask? Well, as per the NGK US site, it’s recommended that for every 75 to 100hp (fly) above stock you go 1 heat range colder. So take the RB25DET from 250hp to 400+hp & it's a good idea to go to a colder plug, hence I now run 7's. Read this info - http://www.ngkspark.com.au/spark_plug_tech_tips.htm

So for those that wish to use iridium plugs but want a 7 or colder plug what do we do? Luckily NGK have a racing application plug labeled IRIWAY, i.e. IRIWAY7, IRIWAY8 & so on depending on the required heat range. These plugs aren’t likely to be stocked on the shelf so you’ll need to request them via special order. They cost ~$25ea.

There’s no problem with using copper, platinum or iridium plugs so long as you replace them as required. Naturally the better quality materials mean the plug will last longer (copper will wear quicker) but as long as the spark is strong enough to ignite the mixture, & most importantly the plug is the correct heat range for the application, then all is well. : )

I'll be giving the IRIWAY7’s a shot next time I do a plug change.

On a final note, I recall a test done in an old issue of FF&R’s where they tested a range of different plugs on the same car/dyno etc… The humble old coppers made the most power! Cheapest plug for the biggest power gain. Mind you power isn’t the only aim of a good plug.

My 2.2c

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/2070-spark-plugs/#findComment-39304
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
    • More so GReddy oil relocation kits, sandwich plates, etc. all use 10AN fittings. And same, I've only used 10AN and my car sees track work (circuit, doing laps, not 10 sec squirt business).
×
×
  • Create New...