Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtr Or R34 Gt-t

charlie22
 Share

Recommended Posts

Kinks Grand Master

Kinks

Posted
Posted

If you want fun and are prepared to spend a fair bit on ongoing maintenance, get the 32 GTR. If you want a new, smooth, reliable daily get the 34 GTT.

I was faced with the same choice and even though the 32 GTR has been a dream car for years, I went the 33. The last car I had was 15 years old and I was sick of replacing bits so the newness factor won out.

allthewaytotheskyline Mentor

allthewaytotheskyline

Posted
Posted
person in my office selling r32..but its in bankstown dnt know this guy personally but looks like bargain for r32 gtr

http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...0&trecs=364

mate that thing sold for 18k

sh@un Grand Master

sh@un

Posted
Posted
Buy a GTR for 20k, drive it for a few months, then put wheels on it and maybe exhaust, the motor then breaks and you've got to rebuild an RB26, then here comes a nice fat bill which will blow your 30k budget right out of the water

but you don't

you buy a fully rebuilt 32 for $30K that already has every mod you could ever want, and then live happily ever after

WazR32GTSt Grand Master

WazR32GTSt

Posted
Posted
...and then live happily ever after

surely if you have ever owned any car, you would know that this ideal never happens

you have to factor in the kind of repairs that an "average" example of the car you're buying would need, and then decide if you can afford it

N1GTR Grand Master

N1GTR

Posted
Posted
Totally agree mate. But we can't EXPECT his motor to die. It's safer to assume it needs a rebuild, especially seeing as a new owner will be excitedly thrashing about, but the turbos will be on their last legs for sure.

If you want comfy, cleaner and hassle free daily driving get the GTT (i would). But if you are serious on performance and don't mind refurbishing the GTR (which would make it nicer to own anyway), even rebuilding the motor just to be safe, then fork out $20k and set aside another $10k for renovation on the GTR.

Both choices have their merits. You decide.

With that budget a GTR just isnt going to heppen if the motor has problems, or if it say, starts breaking cv joints, or the gearbox dies, or if it needs a new clutch etc

hey comming from a 93 180sx with light mods which is a similar age to the 32 gtr it is a dream to drive a 34 smooth and no rattles. my 2c

Hahahahaha, i hope you were drunk when you posted that :laugh:

GTR-N1 Grand Master

GTR-N1

Posted
Posted
hey guys (and girls), im looking at buying a skyline but not sure if i want a r32gtr or r34 gtt(manual, turbo, coupe), i know the gtr will have more power but they are pretty old now and im thinking r34 would be more reliable and just newer, iv got bout 25 to 30 grand to spend, any suggestions.

Hi Charlie,

I'm 59 years old (nearly as old as Jim Richards), and I've owned both an R33 GTR and currently an R34 GTR. I've also organised GTR/GTST/GTT drive days and have plusses and minuses that you might like to play with. I've owned about 20 cars in my 40 years of driving incl. BMWs, Alfetta GTV, Datsuns (starting with a new 1600)

Lets assume that you're getting a manual with turbo coupe.

The plus side of an R34 GTT is that i) they're new with less Kms ii) they have an in your face styling iii) this is the model that won the NZ Targa in 2007 and 2006 beating Porsches/Stis/EVOs/V8s iv) turbo wear is likely to be less than an older GTR v) suspension/bushes/boots/gear box wear will probably be less vi) brakes are better than what's standard on an R32 GTR

The minus side of an R34 GTT is that i) depreciation will be more than a good GTR whether it's an R33 or R32 ii) it won't corner as well as a GTR

The plus side of an R32 GTR is that providing you have one in mind with a complete service history since its arrival in Aust, and it has low Kms as proven by a raft of what's shown on past pink slips over the years (since the odometer can be tampered with) (and don't trust my 58 year old honest face) i) it has as I said a really low depreciation in value) ii) its dynamics and behaviour on the road is superior (except for its braking ability) iii) it turns more heads iv) if its been looked after, it'll look after you better over time v) it's a classic car and classic cars will always be remembered the longest - they've even made a dvd on Bathurst 1991/1992

The minus side of an R32 GTR is i) the brakes are worth upgrading ii) check with a specialist Skyline workshop and pay him to look the car over for MVA damage, wear and tear, leaks, sticky sensors, turbo play unless you're willing to risk it. An Aussie landed R32 GTR will cost too much but...

Also consider if you want to carry 4 people in comfort the only GTR that can do this and still fit your budget is a low Km R33 GTR! A survey has been done on looks of the 3 GTRs so far made (not including the R35), and the R34 and R32 GTRs rated about 33 and 38%. But when the 29% poor brother R33 GTR was considered on the basis that one had to pretend that the GTST had never existed, the R33 GTR style jumped by up by 4% to 33%.

Anyway you pick between the 3 or 2 of them, you'll thoroughly enjoy the experience - welcome to the club!!!

jase-r34 Mentor

jase-r34

Posted
Posted
i know the gtr will have more power but they are pretty old now and im thinking r34 would be more reliable and just newer
That gotta be the best reason why he should choose the GTT over the GTR. Factory power is the same.

Was just correcting him....

Wayne_J Rising Star

Wayne_J

Posted
Posted

I originally wanted a 32 GTR, but went for a 34GTT for the reasons outlined here many times over.

I must say in general terms the GTT is a more comfortable car to be in for 'normal' driving at least.

I'm still thinking about buying a 32 GTR - but to take my time restoring it from the ground up, and in the way I want it to be. In the meantime, I have the GTT to enjoy... I think this is the best solution for me anyway :)

jase-r34 Mentor

jase-r34

Posted
Posted
i know the 'claimed' factory power is the same but surely the gtr would have more than the gt-t, didn't they have some sort of agreement in japan that limits the power(on paper) to 206kw, not sure its just what i've heard

I think the GTR has more torque???...... but as we all know torque and power aren't the same thing, and noone mentioned torque :nyaanyaa:

:D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Fark what are the changes of that snapping like that, clean. Nek minnit, custom radiator goes in, with built in oil cooler like those discontinued PWR ones from yesterdeacades ago
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
×
×
  • Create New...