Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok this is really hard to explain so bare with me , this is a head F**k and im getting really pisssed off with it atm , aside from the airbox lol

anyway here goes, ive had my car for about 4 mnths and when i got it home i put the fuse in and bled it and after that the 4wd has never worked 2 months ago i pulled down the transfer and found nothing (gearbox biulder of 4 yrs) wrong so i replaced a few bearings and reinstalled it . great lol still no 4wd . i have checked this infamous led you all talk about and mine has never flashed once , ive even checked if its blown LOL , i purchased a torque split controller just for shits and giggles and installed that . blah nothing , the pump pressurises on ingition on , ive bled it a million times, with that plug dissconntected and also bled the pump itself , Also used the multimeter to check the voltages of the plug according to the manual thing ,

Now heres the head f**k , ive had my car sitting in my shed for like 2 weeks and taken it out and the bloody thing is working perfectly , like it never had a problem , the tsc does everything its suppose to and all the garbage ,

what wanna know is what are the most common problems with these systems ? ie the G sensor or ?

can anyone offer some sort of explination coz im so sick of it lol im just worried itll cut out again !!

Are thier anyworkshops who know these systems in and out coz im at the point were i want somone else to tackle it , ,

any ideas boys and girl ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/207142-r32gtr-4wd-head-case-car/
Share on other sites

well if the 4wd light on the dash is not on, and the led on the attessa computer is not flashing, then attessa thinks it is working OK. this means all your sensors, actuators etc etc all have outputs in the expected ranges.

intermittent problem the main reason I could think of would be earthing issues they can be a bit tricky to sort out.

The system is usually pretty fool proof.

Does the light come on when you turn the key on before starting the engine??

Does the tourqe guage still work when accelerating etc.

The are a few things that can cause the problem, a blocked pressure line to the actuator.

A crook actuator,

Worn out transfer case which you have elliminated already

Air in the system,

crook pump. Seen them run and make noise but produce no pressure. When your bleeding the system do you get a strong flow of fluid or a dribble??

Most of the sensors will put the light on if they are not working.

You need to work through the system and diagnosis it. If its working occasionally it may be a stuck actuator though

need to know the lights activities and what the guage does though

Edited by Risking

i had similair experiences with my a-lsd system

it was terrible for ages - i drained it flat out, ran daigs etc, over and over. drained it heaps, had a diff place pull apart the housing etc

all didnt help and was still toast. i ended up overfilling the resivour in the boot by more than half. left it for like 2 weeks and it worked prefectly after that

go figure

ok what is this acuator your talking about ? and yes it pumps very strong sprayes everywhere when no hose connect to the nipple .. this acuator sounds interesting as some hoses have been screwed with in the engin bay ,

and when i accelerate the gauge moves and i cant spin the rears in motion in the wet , as before it was all over the road,and the guage didnt move ,

keep the input coming i need more ideas to check ,.

cheers pete.

You said you put a fuse in when you first got the car home. Why was the fuse out in the first place? And is it still out?

Did you bleed the system properly after rebuilding the gearbox?

Are you sure the globe for the warning light isn't blown?

Anyway, seeing as it appears to be working now, what's the problem?

Pete, this sounds like the system is working fine.

Yes i know it seems fine now but the question is why ?

as for the post above , the fuse was out so some moron could do burnouts and yes i bled it properly started with the pump (gravity fed ) turned it (undid the plug in the kick panel) reopend the pump let it bleed more. then moved tho the transfer . blah blah ive set more than one of these up before after in stalling gearboxes, Mine is something else its stupid .

im thinking its a plug or acutator rusted as my car was from the snow apperently , im going to get some contact cleaner and have a bash at it LOL

cheers pete .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...