Jump to content
SAU Community

So I Cut My Bonnet Release Cable On My R34....

SS8_Gohan
 Share

Recommended Posts

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
Posted

As per the title, long story short, i cut the cable that runs from the cabin to the bonnet latch.

Quick question, does this make the bonnet more susceptible to flying open at high speeds and smashing my windscreen??

adam-__- Grand Master

adam-__-

Posted
Posted
"oh sorry officer, the bonnet doesn't seem to be opening!.... i guess you can't inspect my engine bay :)"

*** slaps a defect sticker on window for not being able to open bonnet ***

skymugs Collaborator

skymugs

Posted
Posted
*** slaps a defect sticker on window for not being able to open bonnet ***

actually it worked for me.. i broke the plastic on the latch and it couldnd be opened unless u had pleirs( pain in the arse though)

it was a big defect staton set up at the airport.. i got off without them even checking my hight or exhaust noise, both illegal :(

my 2 mates got fines

adam-__- Grand Master

adam-__-

Posted
Posted
so has the original thread poster come back in here and tell us WHY he cut the cable?

He just felt bored. hahaha :O

I would assume that he cut it because he thought it was a cable tie or some speaker wiring. I've seen someone cut an important cable because they thought it was a cable tie. :(

SS8_Gohan Grand Master

SS8_Gohan

Posted
  • Author
Posted

jeebus, forgot about this thread!!

ok, story...

left keys in ignition... drains battery (not sure how, no lights were on) but not completely. Alarm remote still functions, car is arming and disarming (according to the icon on the remote) but not enough power to actually open the door locks.

Ring RACV. They come out, try initially to wedge the window open a bit where the it meets the soft rubber strip, so as to get a wire in to pull open door luck. Not much give in the window, RACV guy concerned window will shatter.

Puts wedge in between window and door rubber strip (horizontal bit) to try and get the door lock rod (horizontal). Manages to get the rod and door lock starts to come open. BUT even though there wasn't enough power to open the central locking, there was apparently enough power to KEEP the solenoid working and not allow the RACV guy to actually open the lock. Highly annoying.

Keeps trying for 30mins+, different wires etc... I then say, if we can get to the battery, perhaps if we jump it, it will solve our central locking problem. So i try pulling on the bonnet cable by reaching from underneath the front bumper. Get the latch to move about 1mm, but Nissan have thought of this, and the wire that does the opening is on the inside of a plastic covering so pulling on it does jack shit.

I then ask, can we cut the bonnet cable? Discussion ensued about relative pro's and con's and prices of getting locksmiths out. Decide to cut the bonnet wire.

EASIER F*CKING SAID THAN DONE!!! It is one tough mofo of a wire to cut, especially when i have a street sweeper spec front bumper, it was hard to get to and then it took both our efforts to cut the f*cker (the wire that actually does anything is encased in strands of steel cable!!) Eventually cut our way through and the latch pops open!! yipee!!

Pop bonnet, jump battery, alarm starts working again, opens the central locking and away i go.

$60 for bonnet cable from Nisswreck in SA, but has yet to be installed. Anyone know if it will be a shitter of a job?

/end story

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • Duncan
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By Duncan · Posted

      ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...