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just get a big front mount with the return piping design. blitz make them...

when u decide to get 250+ kws u wont need to change.

There is also a new Cooling-Pro Kit available which uses the factory return piping like the Blitz and Greddy kits.

thanks for info guys

well my plans are to run a safc after the intercooler install, and run around 12psi boost, and get it tuned. im after 200rwkw or there abouts.

im gonna look into it abit more, and ask some other people there thoughts about what to do....

like i said i would like to keep the stock pipes and run some sort of front mount for better cooling, but if this is gonna cause alot of stuffin around and stuff, i guess you realy cant go wrong with an off the shelf front mount kit.

i'l keep you guys posted on what i end up doing/etc

thanks

dont bother with the ford crap.

just get a return style cooler from anywhere, ARC are ur best bet probs.

http://www.nengun.com/arc/intercooler-front-mount

ur other option is just to buy a normal FMIC and make custom cooler piping for one side....dats it

why on eath ud go ford is beyond me.

the only thing id proberly look at on a xr6 is the actual turbo.

my 2c

this is the Just Jap type

this looks the goods, and only needs abit of extra pipe with silicon joiners to hook up the stock pipes.

Thats not actually the one im talking about, they have a brand new one that I saw the other week, its not on their website as yet but its identical to the Trust and Blitz kits so no chopping.

this is the Just Jap type

this looks the goods, and only needs abit of extra pipe with silicon joiners to hook up the stock pipes.

i thought about using one of these to retain stock piping. but after speaking to a few ppl that tried, i was told the top outlet/piping sits too high, and interferes with the blinker in stock or aftermarket front bars that retain the standard or close-to blinker location. same with the reo.

as for r34 smic. they are good with a stock turbo, but i noticed it gets really hot after a bit of moderate boosting. i had mine 100% ducted as the 34 ducting lined up perfectly with a duct in my front bar.

now i have a fmic and its always cool to touch no matter what. and the car pulls much harder up top. also, with a fmic you'll get consistent performance, rather than great one time and average the next (ambient temps considered).

Thats not actually the one im talking about, they have a brand new one that I saw the other week, its not on their website as yet but its identical to the Trust and Blitz kits so no chopping.

My eyes are open!

Hi guys, a few of you have already seen and heard about our new Cooling-Pro Stealth Intercooler Kits, and we are glad to inform you all that they are now in stock.

cpstealther34.jpg

Check out the thread below in our SAU Trader Section for special forum member pricing :banana:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...ml#entry3701301

Cheers,

Steve

hi

im in the market for an intercooler very soon, and after having a good look at our xr6 turbo front mount, i thought that it might be a good idea to get one and use it on my r33.

The main advantage that i see in using this is that you keep the stock intercooler pipes in the engine bay, you dont need to cut a hole in the chassis for the usual front mount kits, and it keeps your piping short = better response, plus you dont get cop attention when you pop the bonnet.

Now i know that the xr6 front mounts have the inlets/outlets on the oppoist side, but that can be fixed by just turning it the right way, and gettin sum custom pipes made up to attach to the stock ones....

just an idea i had, let me know what you guys think/has anyone done this before?

cheers

Don't listen to what they are all saying, i have put this setup on my 32, it cost me less than $300 and a Saturdays work. I ordered the exact amount of piping, silicone joiners and hose clamps and designed it myself. I will send you pics and a rough diagram if you want. As far as performance goes don't be fooled, this is a very efficient intercooler, it has lots of good points. The only permanent modification i hade to make was to drill two holes in my rio. If you don't have one still fitted then you will have to get a bit more creative with your mounting brackets, maybe go off the chassis rails. People who say your not supposed to drill holes in your rio i tell i would prefer to replace my rio if an impact is big enough to move my intercooler than try and straighten any other bit of metal in that area.

Advantages:

Tube and fin design, will draw more heat out of the inlet charge than equivalent size bar & plate. Only drawback is greater pressure drop through it compared to bar & plate. This may be negated by having shorter inlet tract.

Stealth, not only does the black paint work in your favour for heat soak, it can be easily overlooked and you wont have a long shiny f*ck-off pipe sitting in your engine bay. You won't have a massive intercooler blocking air-flow into your radiator as much.

I think i measured an extra 70cm of piping over standard SMIC, i don't know how this compares to the length of 'over the radiator' style FMIC piping.

On a day just recently when my thermometer on the HVAC was reading 40+deg. C the top pipe coming out of the intercooler was ambient. I tried measuring inlet temps once with a thermocouple when i installed it over a year ago but i think my method and equipment were wrong to get any comparative results. Either way detonation has been held off running 12psi boost through the standard turbo it pulled 162rwkW on the weekend, with factory (unchipped) computer. Other mods include split dump and catco cat, also pod filter sucking hot air from the engine bay and very quiet cat back exhaust. I might be shooting myself in the foot when i find out this intercooler is too small after the 2530 is fitted in the next fortnight running much higher boost, but i will still be keeping it and pursuing other methods to reduce inlet charge temps.

Someone please tell me if i am overlooking something in the following statements, because i know if i preach too much without doing my research somebody will put me in my place on these forums.

"it is a well known fact that an XR6 can be modified to put out around 300rwkW still using the factory intercooler, in fact it usually isn't necessary/recommended to upgrade it until 'stage 3 kit' that some performance workshops are selling. "

I do know that the specs/efficiency of the XR6 garrett turbo fitted to the XR6 may complicate it more than just saying "if it can flow enough air to make 250+rwkW, then why couldn't it do that on a skyline."

I can send you pics of the brackets I used off the shelf from work. If you plan to go down this path then let me know.

Enough crapping on by me, if i get a chance to pull off my bar on the weekend i will send you some picks and you can make up your own mind.

Cheers

Rob

fire away

  • 3 weeks later...

For those who have asked here is how it turned out.

here is a rough diagram of what it was originally supposed to turn out like. (yes i was bored)

I ended up using alot less piping then i thought i would need.

post-27754-1207201868_thumb.jpg

And this is what it looks like after being on the car for 16months

post-27754-1207201960_thumb.jpg

post-27754-1207202123_thumb.jpg

post-27754-1207202165_thumb.jpg

post-27754-1207202236_thumb.jpg

Here is how its mounted

post-27754-1207202273_thumb.jpg

I think the total parts list was:

6 x 3" Silicone joiners

2 x 2.5" Silicone joiners

4 x 90deg. 3" pipes

1 x 45deg. 3" pipe

Straight section was an offcut from one of the others.

16 x clamps.

1 x XR6 core

and some zinc coated brackets that could easily fabricated. The plate with the stud through it underneath the rio was needed so the fake GTR front bar doesn't foul on bolt heads sticking out when it was put back on because it was such a tight fit around the rio.

Its has never blown a pipe off even though i havn't flared the cut ends ends, i tried to leave the original bead on pipes that were more likely to pop off. I have only recently come across a 3" pipe flare tool and will probably have a crack at flaring the cut ends when the new turbo goes on.

I have made my own cooler kit for my R33 gtst,

I got my HKS GTR cooler off ebay for $90, and it is genuine, in the ebay picks it was coverd in grease and shit so I guess no one wanted it.

I then got my BLITZ piping kit off here for $150.

I welded 90 degree alloy bend on one side and had the nessesary hosses and clamps at home. It worked out way better than i thought it would.

I finished it off in a nice satin black and it looks like its from the factory.

All up i spent about $260 including the fuel to pick up the cooler. :P

I will post some picks on the w/e for any one who wants to see it.

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