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Best Way To Mod A Gtr

R34

By R34,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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R34 Mentor

R34

Posted
Posted

Looking for recommendations from the experts

Considering lightly modding my 32 GTR

What is the best route to take

Don't want to go crazy with expensive mods

Considering

N1 turbos

Boost control

Exhaust

Nistune daughterboard ECU

FMIC

Would these mods be worthwhile on a std engine?

Are the N1 turbos a good mod or would setting the std turbos rebuilt be better

Thanks

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hanyou Grand Master

hanyou

Posted
Posted

i would stick to stock because everything on a gtr is expensive LOL, plus the fact you'll always want more.

for a mild modded car (assuming suspension/brakes are not in the equation)

- hi flows / 34gtr /gt-ss turbos

- full exhaust

- air filter

- boost

you should already be pretty happy with that and your wallet should be kept pretty busy too.. i had a mines ecu in my old gtr it ran pretty good with the above mods (i had hiflows).

if you got some more cash left over, you could get some ridiculous power out of the car by adding these:

- cam gears

- power fc

- injectors & fuel pump

hope that helps

infamous_t Veteran

infamous_t

Posted
Posted

I'd go slightly different to above...

- 34N1s /gt-ss turbos

- full exhaust

- air filter

- boost controller

- turbo dumps

- NIStune, or Power FC.

- Cams if your the budget allows.

- New clutch wouldn't go astray if needed...

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted
the standard fmic is good for i think about 300kw

so should be fine

True that!

I suggest:

Twin air pods or panel filter upgrade.

Full exhaust system.

Remove the Boost restrictor (Thats if it hasn't been removed, but 99% it has) for safe factory boost increase.

Boost controller but don't boost it too high or you will need to upgrade internals.

Upgrade suspension (Lower car).

Upgrade brake pads

This should be good for lightly tune GTR.

R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted

I would do a full exhaust first. N1's are a great idea. Don't be stingy on dump pipes. Get a reliable boost controller. Yeh as everyone else said about ECU, power FC is a pretty good all-round choice.

If you don't plan on much modding, what you DO do do right.

Sorry for all the do-do's.

giant Mentor

giant

Posted
Posted

yep, good info

our first 10 second pass , was a standard n1 engine straight from just jap with a aftermarketset of cams, ecu, airfilters and pumps and injectors, dumps and exhaust (did have a ppg gearbox though, 11.1's prior to box going in) was running vp 109 fuel though.

still had standard intercooler, standard exhaust manifold and intake setup pipe work .

doing these mods (aftermarketset of cams, ecu, airfilters and pumps and injectors, dumps and exhaust ) can give your more than enough power to start breaking other things & start costing you even more to uprate!! :cheers: & so the cycle begins! hehe

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

You could get in to the 12 bracket with adding the following to your current mods.

Large hi flow cat - $300?

aftermarket dump pipes and front pipes - $??? really not sure what GTR parts are worth in this department.

remap ecu - $anywhere from $150 - $600

14psi - $free if you remove the restrictor or $40 for a manual turbotech boost controller or from $300 for a brand name EBC.

that should give you something around 250rwkw.

if the clutch is up to it, side step it from 6500rpm and get your shifts right and you'll come back past the timing station with a 12.xx time slip in your hand.

obviously, the above is the cheapest option.

there is always the option to get PFC, top of the line EBC, CES dump and front pipes with seperate wastegate pipe etc etc.

rev210 Grand Master

rev210

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I think the Pods being un-sheilded is a quick area to fix, I just used some foam matting and the intake temps on the PFC dropped 10 degrees or more. Or go get the standard airbox.

Once you have an ecu, a set of cams is a great move to beef up the mid range power and enable you to make more power (or the same if you want to keep the old original motor alive longer) with less boost, timing , rpm and less agressive fuel map.

On standard turbos my old car with cams made about 40rwhp more than people get out of adjusted cam gears as low as 3,000rpm. So it's a good mod for a mild worn motor setup.

GT-SS turbos look to be a good size but, smaller varients of the N1 or even stock turbos with steel wheels. I reckon 300rwkw is more than enough if you can fatten up the power band on a stock motor.

JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
Posted
Thanks guys

The car already has

Bilstein Suspension

Twin pod filters

Unknown jap cat back exhaust

Compliance cat

Ran a 13.8 400m last week and want into the 12 bracket :banana:

Just go upgraded clutch, boost controller, dump/front pipes and decent launches with good sixty footers and you'll be in the 12s

nfi Community Regular

nfi

Posted
Posted

If you go -5's I would be putting in cams to make best use of them. Otherwise the car is laggier than it has to be for the power you make.

For a stock motor I would go with -7's/gtss +pfc+pressure reg+full good jap exhaust and run 1.1-1.2 bar and be happy with the 280-300rwkw you make. Saves you having to replace afm's, fuel pump, injectors and cams to go the next step.

  • 2 years later...
Dagz Rookie

Dagz

Posted
Posted

Hey I just got a 98 gtr vspec with -5s n cat back, once I finish the exshust n do a full remap I hope I get some better power, but my main goal is 350awkw so the hunt for parts begins lol do you think I could break a 11 sec pass??

R32 Driver Mentor

R32 Driver

Posted
Posted (edited)
I'd go slightly different to above...

- 34N1s /gt-ss turbos

- full exhaust

- air filter

- boost controller

- turbo dumps

- NIStune, or Power FC.

- Cams if your the budget allows.

- New clutch wouldn't go astray if needed...

Id go very similar to infamous_t

400rwhp = Hi-flow stock turbos / 34 n1s/ -7s / GT-SS (all around the same HP, but a slight difference in response and price)

500hp range go -5s or 2530s (add injectors too)

Full exhaust

pods

boost controller

cam gears

nistune if your sticking with afm, haltech or vipec with MAP

New clutch is also recommended and your standard cooler will flow close to 500hp

A good launch and no mis-shifts should net a easy 12

PS. start saving for a rebuild too

Edited by R32 Driver

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