Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking for recommendations from the experts

Considering lightly modding my 32 GTR

What is the best route to take

Don't want to go crazy with expensive mods

Considering

N1 turbos

Boost control

Exhaust

Nistune daughterboard ECU

FMIC

Would these mods be worthwhile on a std engine?

Are the N1 turbos a good mod or would setting the std turbos rebuilt be better

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/208972-best-way-to-mod-a-gtr/
Share on other sites

i would stick to stock because everything on a gtr is expensive LOL, plus the fact you'll always want more.

for a mild modded car (assuming suspension/brakes are not in the equation)

- hi flows / 34gtr /gt-ss turbos

- full exhaust

- air filter

- boost

you should already be pretty happy with that and your wallet should be kept pretty busy too.. i had a mines ecu in my old gtr it ran pretty good with the above mods (i had hiflows).

if you got some more cash left over, you could get some ridiculous power out of the car by adding these:

- cam gears

- power fc

- injectors & fuel pump

hope that helps

I'd go slightly different to above...

- 34N1s /gt-ss turbos

- full exhaust

- air filter

- boost controller

- turbo dumps

- NIStune, or Power FC.

- Cams if your the budget allows.

- New clutch wouldn't go astray if needed...

the standard fmic is good for i think about 300kw

so should be fine

True that!

I suggest:

Twin air pods or panel filter upgrade.

Full exhaust system.

Remove the Boost restrictor (Thats if it hasn't been removed, but 99% it has) for safe factory boost increase.

Boost controller but don't boost it too high or you will need to upgrade internals.

Upgrade suspension (Lower car).

Upgrade brake pads

This should be good for lightly tune GTR.

I would do a full exhaust first. N1's are a great idea. Don't be stingy on dump pipes. Get a reliable boost controller. Yeh as everyone else said about ECU, power FC is a pretty good all-round choice.

If you don't plan on much modding, what you DO do do right.

Sorry for all the do-do's.

yep, good info

our first 10 second pass , was a standard n1 engine straight from just jap with a aftermarketset of cams, ecu, airfilters and pumps and injectors, dumps and exhaust (did have a ppg gearbox though, 11.1's prior to box going in) was running vp 109 fuel though.

still had standard intercooler, standard exhaust manifold and intake setup pipe work .

doing these mods (aftermarketset of cams, ecu, airfilters and pumps and injectors, dumps and exhaust ) can give your more than enough power to start breaking other things & start costing you even more to uprate!! :cheers: & so the cycle begins! hehe

You could get in to the 12 bracket with adding the following to your current mods.

Large hi flow cat - $300?

aftermarket dump pipes and front pipes - $??? really not sure what GTR parts are worth in this department.

remap ecu - $anywhere from $150 - $600

14psi - $free if you remove the restrictor or $40 for a manual turbotech boost controller or from $300 for a brand name EBC.

that should give you something around 250rwkw.

if the clutch is up to it, side step it from 6500rpm and get your shifts right and you'll come back past the timing station with a 12.xx time slip in your hand.

obviously, the above is the cheapest option.

there is always the option to get PFC, top of the line EBC, CES dump and front pipes with seperate wastegate pipe etc etc.

Hi,

I think the Pods being un-sheilded is a quick area to fix, I just used some foam matting and the intake temps on the PFC dropped 10 degrees or more. Or go get the standard airbox.

Once you have an ecu, a set of cams is a great move to beef up the mid range power and enable you to make more power (or the same if you want to keep the old original motor alive longer) with less boost, timing , rpm and less agressive fuel map.

On standard turbos my old car with cams made about 40rwhp more than people get out of adjusted cam gears as low as 3,000rpm. So it's a good mod for a mild worn motor setup.

GT-SS turbos look to be a good size but, smaller varients of the N1 or even stock turbos with steel wheels. I reckon 300rwkw is more than enough if you can fatten up the power band on a stock motor.

Thanks guys

The car already has

Bilstein Suspension

Twin pod filters

Unknown jap cat back exhaust

Compliance cat

Ran a 13.8 400m last week and want into the 12 bracket :banana:

Just go upgraded clutch, boost controller, dump/front pipes and decent launches with good sixty footers and you'll be in the 12s

If you go -5's I would be putting in cams to make best use of them. Otherwise the car is laggier than it has to be for the power you make.

For a stock motor I would go with -7's/gtss +pfc+pressure reg+full good jap exhaust and run 1.1-1.2 bar and be happy with the 280-300rwkw you make. Saves you having to replace afm's, fuel pump, injectors and cams to go the next step.

  • 2 years later...

Hey I just got a 98 gtr vspec with -5s n cat back, once I finish the exshust n do a full remap I hope I get some better power, but my main goal is 350awkw so the hunt for parts begins lol do you think I could break a 11 sec pass??

I'd go slightly different to above...

- 34N1s /gt-ss turbos

- full exhaust

- air filter

- boost controller

- turbo dumps

- NIStune, or Power FC.

- Cams if your the budget allows.

- New clutch wouldn't go astray if needed...

Id go very similar to infamous_t

400rwhp = Hi-flow stock turbos / 34 n1s/ -7s / GT-SS (all around the same HP, but a slight difference in response and price)

500hp range go -5s or 2530s (add injectors too)

Full exhaust

pods

boost controller

cam gears

nistune if your sticking with afm, haltech or vipec with MAP

New clutch is also recommended and your standard cooler will flow close to 500hp

A good launch and no mis-shifts should net a easy 12

PS. start saving for a rebuild too

Edited by R32 Driver

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...