Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Anyone can help here?

I'm trying to think which is the best to go for?

Obviously i'm chasing the best response and yet provide with the power i'm chasing.

a Garrett GT2871R with .63 rear housing or

Garrett GT2876 with .86 Rear housing or

Garrett GT30 all with ball bearings

I'm chasing power between 300-330kw at the rear wheels

It's to go on my R33 with RB25DET engine that has:

2mm Cometic head gasket

Tomei heavy duty Valve springs

264 in/ex cams

3.5" exhaust

Walbro 255L pump

WOLF 3D V4 ECU

HKS Boost Controller

38mm Tial External Wastegate

HKS Cast Iron Low Mount manifold

FMIC

Filter

Front Face Plenum with 80mm throttle body

SARD 550cc injectors

Splitfire Ignition

Iridium spark plugs.

GTR Radiator

Adjustable cam gears.

Think of changing my Walbro pump to a Bosch 044 pump with a surge tank instead but i don't know if it's necessary or not, What do you guys think?

Edited by Deceeve
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209372-need-help-on-turbo-selection-guys/
Share on other sites

My choice would be GT3037 .82 run at 22-24psi (as im doing) that way you will have good response and will achieve your power goal.Rather than buying a bigger turbo with more lag. But having that 2mm headgasket it will be a bit doughy down low.

Frankly if you are targeting 300kW as a minimum, you'd do well to head straight to a GT3582.

I noted that your shopping list / parts list includes an external gate, so any of the GT28 series stuff won't be suitable or cut it from a flow viewpoint anyway.

Suggest doing a search, using either GT30, GT35, or 300rwkW as key words for turbo specs. There are a few blokes who have exceeded 300kW but you have to make sure it lives a reasonably long life by giving it the right supporting systems.

I hope your fuel system and engine breathing system is well thought out. If you're actually going to use that power (ie at a track) then cooling (radiator and oil) should be factored in. Get rid of the Walbro, use a Nismo in tank pump.

Keep us posted with updates please, and good luck.

i dunno go the smaller frame turbo and stick the temp probe in a cup of coffee and bob's your uncle. :)

nah, i'm with dale. wringing the neck of GT3076 to get there might be more trouble than it's worth.

Edited by wolverine
My choice would be GT3037 .82 run at 22-24psi (as im doing) that way you will have good response and will achieve your power goal.Rather than buying a bigger turbo with more lag. But having that 2mm headgasket it will be a bit doughy down low.

Wouldn't the GT2871R white achieve around 300rwkw with very minimal lag especially with the 2mm head gasket?

if running the GT3037 .82 what RPM does the boost comes on and when do you actually hits full boost though?

Is the mods in your car much different to mind?

I'm just not sure how early i can get the turbo to come on boost early enough with the thicker head gasket you see and yet still achieve the goal.

With the 3037 id imagine (in my car) i would see full boost (22psi) by 3800rpm,but i will have a Greddy plenum,cams and an aftermarket exhaust manifold.So might be a little later in your application.

Frankly if you are targeting 300kW as a minimum, you'd do well to head straight to a GT3582.

I noted that your shopping list / parts list includes an external gate, so any of the GT28 series stuff won't be suitable or cut it from a flow viewpoint anyway.

Suggest doing a search, using either GT30, GT35, or 300rwkW as key words for turbo specs. There are a few blokes who have exceeded 300kW but you have to make sure it lives a reasonably long life by giving it the right supporting systems.

I hope your fuel system and engine breathing system is well thought out. If you're actually going to use that power (ie at a track) then cooling (radiator and oil) should be factored in. Get rid of the Walbro, use a Nismo in tank pump.

Keep us posted with updates please, and good luck.

I've already got that mods in my car and is now using the Hyper Gear TR44 and turbo seems to be surging. It comes on boost like so late of about 3500RPM with not even enough G-force and then just die so fast at about 6000RPM. Giving me no power to play with at all.

Not going to be using it on the track just weekend car for cruising or something. With the mods i have wouldn't the GT30 or GT35 makes it alittle too laggy especially with the 2mm thick gasket?

I was thinking of going for the new Turbonetics T62-1 Dual ceramic ball bearing and it is a patent developed by NASA :)

The walbro pump i have is also an in tank pump but what makes the Nismo one more better?

I forgot to add that my fuel system is a sard 550cc with using Splitfire Ignition and Iridium spark plugs.

Will keep everyone posted on the projects.

With the 3037 id imagine (in my car) i would see full boost (22psi) by 3800rpm,but i will have a Greddy plenum,cams and an aftermarket exhaust manifold.So might be a little later in your application.

So you're saying even with the aftermarket plenum with 264 cams and HKS low mount exhaust and the 2mm head gasket i would expect full boost to hit a little later than 3800RPM?

I'm only after anywhere between 300-330rwkw but is also considering the Turbonectics dual Ceramic Ball bearing turbo it's just that i haven't heard anyone in OZ used it before on a skyline especially since it's just new as well. It's rated at 600HP with .63 rear housing.

Mate the 2871 wont even come into the ballpark. Turbo homework you need :)

Max of around 250rwkw on a good day.

Simply put, 300rwkw you ain't going to see anything resembling "response" until after 4000rpm, 4200-4400 is more likely.

And on a stocker motor, GT35, your gonna be limited with RPM range upto 7500 at the most being I wouldn't go much further without uprated rod bolts in the bottom end more so than the coin you spent on the head as the bottom end is the more critical part of it IMO

Mate the 2871 wont even come into the ballpark. Turbo homework you need :laugh:

Max of around 250rwkw on a good day.

Simply put, 300rwkw you ain't going to see anything resembling "response" until after 4000rpm, 4200-4400 is more likely.

And on a stocker motor, GT35, your gonna be limited with RPM range upto 7500 at the most being I wouldn't go much further without uprated rod bolts in the bottom end more so than the coin you spent on the head as the bottom end is the more critical part of it IMO

So in your ipinion with the mods what do you think the best turbo to get that power?

That is crap.

It will not make that much power, and if it did, it would have the engine on the brink of destruction.

Either that, or you like using happy dynos.

Darrens S14 drift car is an example. As for Alberts S15 making 280rwkw on 15psi with another. I'm not talkin the T2 flanged butcher special either. Theres no reason why a T3 flanged GT3071R cannot make that sort of power, altho it will be stretching its legs. A quick read thru a thread just below this turns up;

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/30....html&st=20

290rwkw with a cropped version! Well then 300 should be no probs with an unmolested GT3071.

Edited by Busky2k

its true... mine cranked 290 rwkw the other day with a cropped 3071R, and 1.2 bar boost to do it. i was making 265 rwkw on 1.2 bar, then chucked some cams in it and now its making more power on same boost.

the 3071R is an awesome all round tuerbo for response and power... they will make 300 rwkw, but not anything massive over that.

I wouldn't mind seeing some of these dyno sheets so I can see just how much the dyno operator has fudged the final power readout.

I have a 3076 with water methanol injection - and it struggles to make 310rwkw on 18psi of boost.

How could a smaller turbo make it just as easy?

there are examples of some extreme results both high and low for any given turbo. given a choice i would shoot for lower peak power output and go a smaller framed turbo every time but this is dependent on use hence it is a personal choice.

simon-R32 has an amazing result out of the GCG cropped 3071 turbo. i am aware of a workshop has struggled to make power with another example of the same turbo. since GCG are highly reputable it is a real headscratcher why one is shooting the lights out and another hasn't gone close. i would have expected simons to top out closer to 270-280rwkw with cams and the great response with the extra care in the tuning and setup.

if 330rwkw is the target i still reckon GT3582

Edited by wolverine

why do you want 300 - 330rwkw's?

does that sound like a nice figure?

personally i would choose a .82 gt3582r but expect full boost around 4000 - 4200rpm

pull hard to 8k happily make 300-350kws depending on boost.

gt30 is at the end of its chain working that hard, and is the same price as the gt35 so why stretch it when you can do it easily.

my gt3582r-iw, with a high stall auto, is still managing 320rwkw on 23psi and no

knock, on shell v power.

my old gt3071 with the auto was out of puff around the 270kw mark

and remember to be prepared for a $10k rebuild either way at those figures.

why do you want 300 - 330rwkw's?

does that sound like a nice figure?

personally i would choose a .82 gt3582r but expect full boost around 4000 - 4200rpm

pull hard to 8k happily make 300-350kws depending on boost.

gt30 is at the end of its chain working that hard, and is the same price as the gt35 so why stretch it when you can do it easily.

my gt3582r-iw, with a high stall auto, is still managing 320rwkw on 23psi and no

knock, on shell v power.

my old gt3071 with the auto was out of puff around the 270kw mark

and remember to be prepared for a $10k rebuild either way at those figures.

The reason i'm aiming for that figures is that i'm still running on stock bottom end and i believe that's the safe figures i can push it to for the R33.

I think the GT3582R would offers that power but don't you think with my 2mm head gasket it would be pretty damn laggy?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...