Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking about getting one of the new stealth cooling pro intercooler from Just Jap - see link below

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...94#entry3707494

They use the factory cooler pipes on a r33. Does anyone know/think they would match up to the Stagea factory pipes? If so it looks like an easy install!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209747-stagea-intercooler/
Share on other sites

i installed an R33 ARC FMIC, slightly shorter than these, bolted up to factory pipes, might just have to modify the mounting points slightly and do a bit of hacking on the front inner metal bar. But with enough skill and patience anything can be made to fit.

I don't see why it wouldn't fit because the pipes suggest that it would fit up really easily.

I'd much rather try and get this kit to work rather than their other kit which involves drilling a hole in the chassis.

Exactly what ive been looking for, thanks for putting it up. Ive ordered one, will let you know if theres any problems but i doubt it, its all in the same place.

cheers.

Good work Momo. I think it will bolt straight up but now you will be able to tell us all.

Good work Momo. I think it will bolt straight up but now you will be able to tell us all.

Morgan you will have to do some mod`s to reo bar i hav just had dumie fit of blitz & had to mod reo so good luck dude.cheer`post-36964-1205209662_thumb.jpgs chuckie.post-36964-1205209578_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1205209732_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1205209804_thumb.jpgcooler size is 360x820x70.

they look good

look to be exact same size to my Apexi cooler, exact same shape etc except mine is HALF tube'n'fin and HALF bar'n'plate

Id be getting one of these intercoolers, if you want to use the same factory holes

you'll need a couple of stainless pipes tho to go from inside engine bay to the intercooler, I used a pipe kit off ebay

edit: I didnt hack anaything, bar the plastic Dayz front bar numberplate bracket (to open it up to let max air flow thru). if you install the 'cooler on a slight angle it fits without touching the reo bar

Tangles - i thought the pipes supplied would match up to the pipes used for the factory intercooler?

Do you have pics of the Dayz bar trim up - i want to do this too as the number plate bracket seems to fill half of the opening.I was concerned it might weaken the front bumper too much and i was uncertain how i would mount the plate afterwards.

Edited by MRO
Tangles - i thought the pipes supplied would match up to the pipes used for the factory intercooler?

Do you have pics of the Dayz bar trim up - i want to do this too as the number plate bracket seems to fill half of the opening.I was concerned it might weaken the front bumper too much and i was uncertain how i would mount the plate afterwards.

oh I thought they didnt come with pipes.

nice buy if they do, thats for sure.

um, photos, none here at work

there are intercooler threads on here where Ive posted pics

just cut the dayz number plate section off (poorly cut, mind you) and bolted the number plate to the side air dam where the side mount used to be.

definately does not weaken the front area

Id like to get a small sticker number plate eventually.

DCAM0010-1.jpg

DCAM0014.jpg

DCAM0010.jpg

Tangles - i thought the pipes supplied would match up to the pipes used for the factory intercooler?

Do you have pics of the Dayz bar trim up - i want to do this too as the number plate bracket seems to fill half of the opening.I was concerned it might weaken the front bumper too much and i was uncertain how i would mount the plate afterwards.

i mounted my plate on the bar itself just above the original holes

post-26949-1205220932_thumb.jpg

just cut the dayz number plate section off (poorly cut, mind you) and bolted the number plate to the side air dam where the side mount used to be.

definately does not weaken the front area

Tangles, where in Adelaide are you?

I'd like to have a look at your intercooler install if you don't mind.

I've got a front mount kit coming for my RS4.

:blink:

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (Rb25det intake manifold) I’m having a hell of a time trying to find the full part or part number of this coolant hardline so far I was given these (Below) but they aren’t what I’m looking for and was told it’s the IAR or aac valve but that doesn’t seem to be it either. If someone could point me in the right direction it’d be greatly appreciated. Or if anyone has it for sale that’d be great too. I have recently purchased a greddy manifold and I can’t seem to find my old one to pull it off.  (Front Heater Return / Water Pipe (under intake): Primary part: 14053‑21U10 (front return pipe assembly for R33/R34 RB25DET) Alternative listing: 14053‑21U00 (same pipe, sometimes interchangeably referenced)   Heater Feed Pipe: Listed as 14075‑04U00 or feed-related variant 14053‑AG500)    
    • This sounds cool. But, as per usual, anything really complicated like that, that I take on, constitutes a steep learning curve that I never actually "learn". I just get it working, install it and start using it. Then, when it breaks a few months later, I've got no memory of what I did, how I did it, or even the bloody IP address I gave it. I'm having more or less exactly that problem right now. My Proxmox machine was discovered to be non-responsive, and the VMs on it were ditto. Power cycle it to a stream of loud Dell beep codes - which was unpopular at midnight, I can tell you. Move it to the lounge room so I can HDMI it to the TV for a screen, see the boot messages complaining about the /PVE/data having all sorts of LVM problems, saying it needs to be fixed manually. And I'm like....great. How am I going to work out what I need to do? At least it wasn't the stupid Silicon Power SSD shat itself. Mental note for all readers - DO NOT BUY SP SSDS! They are shit. I have had one take out an entire VM setup already, and this one could have done the same. Maybe it actually has. Cheap Chinesium shitbaskets. I won't cheap out again, even on play projects with no budget. Because my time budget having to fix shit is worth far more than the cost of proper parts.
    • I do typically agree. These days even the screens most people use have more of a boot time than the main device. However, I've seen an interesting use of the RPi in vehicle, however it involves effectively building your own OS and MBR, as then it boots up exceptionally quickly, as you don't have everything needing to start up, and you can then also run it up as an RTOS, while still having more compute than an Android can give for things like display, and processing. A very huge task that would be though for Duncan, I'm not sure that's his skill set (or Arduino programming and wiring) ha ha. If end goal is definitely just water cooling, Arduino would be the simpler setup especially for a rookie. If he wants extra display stuff though, bashing some code in Python on an RPi may be the better result for both systems.   Unfortunately the new device I'm building at work which runs a display, is too slow of a display for dashboard style purposes. More extreme low power, update only a couple of times a day type system
    • I don't like "actual computers" for in car use. They take time to boot up, have OS annoyances, and so on. Arduinos etc are ready to go a few seconds after power on, don't mind being agressively powere cycled, because everything is non-volatile, don't mind being shaken and stirred.
    • As Fred would tell us, it's all about interpreting the rules. It's not a water sprayer, it's a water mister... But everything else you've said, 100%! Even a raspberry Pi would be great, use HDMI out for a display, and add a raspberry Pi CANBus hat to read values out from the ECU.
×
×
  • Create New...