Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am thinking about getting one of the new stealth cooling pro intercooler from Just Jap - see link below

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Co...94#entry3707494

They use the factory cooler pipes on a r33. Does anyone know/think they would match up to the Stagea factory pipes? If so it looks like an easy install!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209747-stagea-intercooler/
Share on other sites

i installed an R33 ARC FMIC, slightly shorter than these, bolted up to factory pipes, might just have to modify the mounting points slightly and do a bit of hacking on the front inner metal bar. But with enough skill and patience anything can be made to fit.

I don't see why it wouldn't fit because the pipes suggest that it would fit up really easily.

I'd much rather try and get this kit to work rather than their other kit which involves drilling a hole in the chassis.

Exactly what ive been looking for, thanks for putting it up. Ive ordered one, will let you know if theres any problems but i doubt it, its all in the same place.

cheers.

Good work Momo. I think it will bolt straight up but now you will be able to tell us all.

Good work Momo. I think it will bolt straight up but now you will be able to tell us all.

Morgan you will have to do some mod`s to reo bar i hav just had dumie fit of blitz & had to mod reo so good luck dude.cheer`post-36964-1205209662_thumb.jpgs chuckie.post-36964-1205209578_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1205209732_thumb.jpgpost-36964-1205209804_thumb.jpgcooler size is 360x820x70.

they look good

look to be exact same size to my Apexi cooler, exact same shape etc except mine is HALF tube'n'fin and HALF bar'n'plate

Id be getting one of these intercoolers, if you want to use the same factory holes

you'll need a couple of stainless pipes tho to go from inside engine bay to the intercooler, I used a pipe kit off ebay

edit: I didnt hack anaything, bar the plastic Dayz front bar numberplate bracket (to open it up to let max air flow thru). if you install the 'cooler on a slight angle it fits without touching the reo bar

Tangles - i thought the pipes supplied would match up to the pipes used for the factory intercooler?

Do you have pics of the Dayz bar trim up - i want to do this too as the number plate bracket seems to fill half of the opening.I was concerned it might weaken the front bumper too much and i was uncertain how i would mount the plate afterwards.

Edited by MRO
Tangles - i thought the pipes supplied would match up to the pipes used for the factory intercooler?

Do you have pics of the Dayz bar trim up - i want to do this too as the number plate bracket seems to fill half of the opening.I was concerned it might weaken the front bumper too much and i was uncertain how i would mount the plate afterwards.

oh I thought they didnt come with pipes.

nice buy if they do, thats for sure.

um, photos, none here at work

there are intercooler threads on here where Ive posted pics

just cut the dayz number plate section off (poorly cut, mind you) and bolted the number plate to the side air dam where the side mount used to be.

definately does not weaken the front area

Id like to get a small sticker number plate eventually.

DCAM0010-1.jpg

DCAM0014.jpg

DCAM0010.jpg

Tangles - i thought the pipes supplied would match up to the pipes used for the factory intercooler?

Do you have pics of the Dayz bar trim up - i want to do this too as the number plate bracket seems to fill half of the opening.I was concerned it might weaken the front bumper too much and i was uncertain how i would mount the plate afterwards.

i mounted my plate on the bar itself just above the original holes

post-26949-1205220932_thumb.jpg

just cut the dayz number plate section off (poorly cut, mind you) and bolted the number plate to the side air dam where the side mount used to be.

definately does not weaken the front area

Tangles, where in Adelaide are you?

I'd like to have a look at your intercooler install if you don't mind.

I've got a front mount kit coming for my RS4.

:blink:

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...