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Greedy want $120 for a change over switch for the profec b spec 2, So a little chasing around with my multimeter found the following, It uses a stereo 3.5mm plug of which has 2 voltages, a 12v which obviously powers up the Greddy remote switch and a 4.5-5V which is the changeover voltage. Momentary switching the 5v to ground changes over the Hi-low setting.

The following is a cheaper alternative. Total cost is no more than $10!

Tool List:

Soldering Iron

Drill for mounting switch

Multimeter

Drill bits and solder

Part List:

product_2116.jpg

1x 3.5mm Stereo METAL Plug WITH SPRING (CAT. NO. PP0135) = $1.35 (can use alternative but needs to be a stereo one)

product_4180.jpg

1x PUSHBUTTON PUSH-ON MOMENTARY SPST RED ACTUATOR (CAT. NO. SP0716) = $1.50

- or -

product_4173.jpg

Small Black SPST N/O Momentary Action (CAT. NO. SP0700) = $2.80

(can use alternative but needs to be momentary "ON" type)

1m or so of 3-4 core wire depend where switch is to the unit = $2-3

- or - quite possibly (should work) :D

product_10564.jpg

AUDIO LEAD 3.5MM - 3.5MM PLUG STEREO 5M (CAT. NO. WA7005) = $8.95

I made my own as i already have some cable but the premade one should work. If yu buy premade skip to step 2.

Step 1:

Strip your wire and solder 3 different wires on different pins of the 3.5mm plug.

Step 2:

Strip the wires on the opposite end of the wire to the plug(if using a premade one cut one plug side off). Check with your multimeter on resistance(ohms) between all 3 wires eg; between wire 1 & 2 , 1 & 3 and 2 & 3. You want to make sure that all readings have no resistance value as this means there is a short(dont hold the wires with your fingers as you are a conductor and will create a circuit)

If you get a reading make sure that no wires are joining at the plug.

Step 3:

If step 2 is all good, plug the jack into the back of the profec and turn your ignition on(make sure the side with no plugs wires arent touching). With your multimeter on Volts DC find the ground and 5V wire, touch these wires for a second and make sure it switches modes. If good turn off your ignition and with the last wire(12VDC) cut the stripped part off, i taped it to the insulation of the wire as later on i plan to get a switch with an LED and this will come in handy.

Step 4:

Solder up the 5VDC wire and ground across the switch, Plug in and test with car ignition on. If doesnt work check all your connections ,possibility of bad solder joint or short circuit.

Step 5:

Drill and mount the switch where ever you like. I put mine in the spare switch slot next to the steering wheel on my r33, then just run the wire with plug back to the Profec head unit and enjoy.

Make sure that the momentary switch is of the Normally Open type and test it with a meter before you purchase at jaycar, I plan to get a LED switch that will light up when in high boost mode, trying to source out a good one at the moment. I hope someone will find this useful. :D

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  • 2 weeks later...

This is awesome, very good job indeed.

I kept the same idea when I did mine but I changed it a little bit.

Instead of using the stationary button idea, I used a MOMO steering wheel that I have had lying around which has the two "NOS" buttons either side. The main problem was going to be getting the feed from the Boost controller to the steering wheel which is always moving.

So I used the 3.5mm audio jack and lead from JAYCAR which is the 'springy type' and i just soldered it to the buttons in the steering wheel and then plugged it into the Boost controller. Just had to cable tie it to the steering wheel and clamp it to the side of the steering column. If you use the leads from JAYCAR, the black is the ground, the white is the 5volt and the red is the 12volt.

Will chuck up a few photos when it is completely finished.

Top job DAZWAH

post-45738-1206840278_thumb.jpg

post-45738-1206840293_thumb.jpg

Edited by J-train
This is awesome, very good job indeed.

I kept the same idea when I did mine but I changed it a little bit.

Instead of using the stationary button idea, I used a MOMO steering wheel that I have had lying around which has the two "NOS" buttons either side. The main problem was going to be getting the feed from the Boost controller to the steering wheel which is always moving.

So I used the 3.5mm audio jack and lead from JAYCAR which is the 'springy type' and i just soldered it to the buttons in the steering wheel and then plugged it into the Boost controller. Just had to cable tie it to the steering wheel and clamp it to the side of the steering column. If you use the leads from JAYCAR, the black is the ground, the white is the 5volt and the red is the 12volt.

Will chuck up a few photos when it is completely finished.

Top job DAZWAH

If i had am aftermarket wheel with a NOS button i would do the same. Would love to see some photos. :pwned:

  • 4 weeks later...

Great stuff, just working on mine now :D

I plan to get a LED switch that will light up when in high boost mode, trying to source out a good one at the moment

If you do let us know, I also want to connect a light to show when I'm on high boost mode.

If you use the leads from JAYCAR, the black is the ground, the white is the 5volt and the red is the 12volt.

I'm just using a lead I ripped off an old set of headphones and is exactly the same.

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 months later...
Done!

Great tutorial, just wondering if this would actually work if I connected the switch to one of the FM control buttons on the dash cluster surround? I'm pretty sure its the right kind of switch, but does anyone know for sure? Would be nice and stealthy

-D

yeah the radio buttons on the dash are momentary on....so you can just tap into them

Sweet thanks.

Ive bought the cable and tapped it, going to solder it up tomorrow.... gonna also hook up an led on the dash that lights up when hi boost is selected.... EBC is hidden in the glovebox so it does help...

Cheers all

-D

Does anyone have the pinouts for the 2 radio buttons on the 32?

Thanks

Ben

Use a multimeter! put your meter on resistance mode. Switch open should read infinite(open circuit) switch pushed should read 0-0.5ohms (closed circuit). Find what ever 2 terminals match.

Use a multimeter! put your meter on resistance mode. Switch open should read infinite(open circuit) switch pushed should read 0-0.5ohms (closed circuit). Find what ever 2 terminals match.

Yeah lol, sorry. I'm really shite with multimeters but I eventually got there. Its all working nicely now :) All I gotta do now is bust open the casing to the transmitter for the automatic rollerdoor and hook it up to the other button ;D

Now for the hard part -

Does anyone know how I can make it so that I have a red led on my panel when hi boost is selected? I figure the most straight forward way would be to break open the profec's casing and solder a socket to the hi boost LED and then just run a second wire to an LED i can mount next to my boost gauge...

Or does anyone have any fancy tricks that I can use to get around breaking open the box?

Cheers

-D

Edited by Dohmar
Next on the list..

do it for Hks evc 4-5!

i know it involves a bit more and different plugs than what greddy use

What sort of plug does it use? Got any pinout schematics? Would be nice to see what HKS have made controllable by remote

-D

Just wired up my own Hi/Lo switch for my Profec B Spec II, and used the wiper de-icer switch above the ignition.

For those with a R33, R34, or Stagea, its the Blue and Green wires that you hook up to Ground and +5V behind the switch.

I think its the most stealthy way to switch between hi and low boost...using the factory dash switches :3some:

  • 5 months later...

Hi guys

I saw a video in youtube...I have Profec A boost controller and I have almost done my switch...just wondering in which bung in the bag to plug it...i see three bungs- Interaction, Data-out and Option...Which of these three is the right one :blush:

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