Jump to content
SAU Community

Hi-low Switch For Profec B Spec Ii

DazWah

By DazWah,
in Tutorials / DIY / FAQ

 Share

Recommended Posts

DazWah Collaborator

DazWah

Posted
Posted

Greedy want $120 for a change over switch for the profec b spec 2, So a little chasing around with my multimeter found the following, It uses a stereo 3.5mm plug of which has 2 voltages, a 12v which obviously powers up the Greddy remote switch and a 4.5-5V which is the changeover voltage. Momentary switching the 5v to ground changes over the Hi-low setting.

The following is a cheaper alternative. Total cost is no more than $10!

Tool List:

Soldering Iron

Drill for mounting switch

Multimeter

Drill bits and solder

Part List:

product_2116.jpg

1x 3.5mm Stereo METAL Plug WITH SPRING (CAT. NO. PP0135) = $1.35 (can use alternative but needs to be a stereo one)

product_4180.jpg

1x PUSHBUTTON PUSH-ON MOMENTARY SPST RED ACTUATOR (CAT. NO. SP0716) = $1.50

- or -

product_4173.jpg

Small Black SPST N/O Momentary Action (CAT. NO. SP0700) = $2.80

(can use alternative but needs to be momentary "ON" type)

1m or so of 3-4 core wire depend where switch is to the unit = $2-3

- or - quite possibly (should work) :D

product_10564.jpg

AUDIO LEAD 3.5MM - 3.5MM PLUG STEREO 5M (CAT. NO. WA7005) = $8.95

I made my own as i already have some cable but the premade one should work. If yu buy premade skip to step 2.

Step 1:

Strip your wire and solder 3 different wires on different pins of the 3.5mm plug.

Step 2:

Strip the wires on the opposite end of the wire to the plug(if using a premade one cut one plug side off). Check with your multimeter on resistance(ohms) between all 3 wires eg; between wire 1 & 2 , 1 & 3 and 2 & 3. You want to make sure that all readings have no resistance value as this means there is a short(dont hold the wires with your fingers as you are a conductor and will create a circuit)

If you get a reading make sure that no wires are joining at the plug.

Step 3:

If step 2 is all good, plug the jack into the back of the profec and turn your ignition on(make sure the side with no plugs wires arent touching). With your multimeter on Volts DC find the ground and 5V wire, touch these wires for a second and make sure it switches modes. If good turn off your ignition and with the last wire(12VDC) cut the stripped part off, i taped it to the insulation of the wire as later on i plan to get a switch with an LED and this will come in handy.

Step 4:

Solder up the 5VDC wire and ground across the switch, Plug in and test with car ignition on. If doesnt work check all your connections ,possibility of bad solder joint or short circuit.

Step 5:

Drill and mount the switch where ever you like. I put mine in the spare switch slot next to the steering wheel on my r33, then just run the wire with plug back to the Profec head unit and enjoy.

Make sure that the momentary switch is of the Normally Open type and test it with a meter before you purchase at jaycar, I plan to get a LED switch that will light up when in high boost mode, trying to source out a good one at the moment. I hope someone will find this useful. :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/209903-hi-low-switch-for-profec-b-spec-ii/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 43
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...
J-train Contributor

J-train

Posted
Posted (edited)

This is awesome, very good job indeed.

I kept the same idea when I did mine but I changed it a little bit.

Instead of using the stationary button idea, I used a MOMO steering wheel that I have had lying around which has the two "NOS" buttons either side. The main problem was going to be getting the feed from the Boost controller to the steering wheel which is always moving.

So I used the 3.5mm audio jack and lead from JAYCAR which is the 'springy type' and i just soldered it to the buttons in the steering wheel and then plugged it into the Boost controller. Just had to cable tie it to the steering wheel and clamp it to the side of the steering column. If you use the leads from JAYCAR, the black is the ground, the white is the 5volt and the red is the 12volt.

Will chuck up a few photos when it is completely finished.

Top job DAZWAH

post-45738-1206840278_thumb.jpg

post-45738-1206840293_thumb.jpg

Edited by J-train
DazWah Collaborator

DazWah

Posted
  • Author
Posted
This is awesome, very good job indeed.

I kept the same idea when I did mine but I changed it a little bit.

Instead of using the stationary button idea, I used a MOMO steering wheel that I have had lying around which has the two "NOS" buttons either side. The main problem was going to be getting the feed from the Boost controller to the steering wheel which is always moving.

So I used the 3.5mm audio jack and lead from JAYCAR which is the 'springy type' and i just soldered it to the buttons in the steering wheel and then plugged it into the Boost controller. Just had to cable tie it to the steering wheel and clamp it to the side of the steering column. If you use the leads from JAYCAR, the black is the ground, the white is the 5volt and the red is the 12volt.

Will chuck up a few photos when it is completely finished.

Top job DAZWAH

If i had am aftermarket wheel with a NOS button i would do the same. Would love to see some photos. :pwned:

  • 4 weeks later...
HR31_RB20DET Proficient

HR31_RB20DET

Posted
Posted

Great stuff, just working on mine now :D

I plan to get a LED switch that will light up when in high boost mode, trying to source out a good one at the moment

If you do let us know, I also want to connect a light to show when I'm on high boost mode.

If you use the leads from JAYCAR, the black is the ground, the white is the 5volt and the red is the 12volt.

I'm just using a lead I ripped off an old set of headphones and is exactly the same.

  • 5 months later...
  • 2 months later...
Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted
Done!

Great tutorial, just wondering if this would actually work if I connected the switch to one of the FM control buttons on the dash cluster surround? I'm pretty sure its the right kind of switch, but does anyone know for sure? Would be nice and stealthy

-D

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted
yeah the radio buttons on the dash are momentary on....so you can just tap into them

Sweet thanks.

Ive bought the cable and tapped it, going to solder it up tomorrow.... gonna also hook up an led on the dash that lights up when hi boost is selected.... EBC is hidden in the glovebox so it does help...

Cheers all

-D

DazWah Collaborator

DazWah

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Does anyone have the pinouts for the 2 radio buttons on the 32?

Thanks

Ben

Use a multimeter! put your meter on resistance mode. Switch open should read infinite(open circuit) switch pushed should read 0-0.5ohms (closed circuit). Find what ever 2 terminals match.

Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted (edited)
Use a multimeter! put your meter on resistance mode. Switch open should read infinite(open circuit) switch pushed should read 0-0.5ohms (closed circuit). Find what ever 2 terminals match.

Yeah lol, sorry. I'm really shite with multimeters but I eventually got there. Its all working nicely now :) All I gotta do now is bust open the casing to the transmitter for the automatic rollerdoor and hook it up to the other button ;D

Now for the hard part -

Does anyone know how I can make it so that I have a red led on my panel when hi boost is selected? I figure the most straight forward way would be to break open the profec's casing and solder a socket to the hi boost LED and then just run a second wire to an LED i can mount next to my boost gauge...

Or does anyone have any fancy tricks that I can use to get around breaking open the box?

Cheers

-D

Edited by Dohmar
Dohmar Grand Master

Dohmar

Posted
Posted
Next on the list..

do it for Hks evc 4-5!

i know it involves a bit more and different plugs than what greddy use

What sort of plug does it use? Got any pinout schematics? Would be nice to see what HKS have made controllable by remote

-D

BIT SUS Mentor

BIT SUS

Posted
Posted

Just wired up my own Hi/Lo switch for my Profec B Spec II, and used the wiper de-icer switch above the ignition.

For those with a R33, R34, or Stagea, its the Blue and Green wires that you hook up to Ground and +5V behind the switch.

I think its the most stealthy way to switch between hi and low boost...using the factory dash switches :3some:

  • 5 months later...
ShermanBG Newbie

ShermanBG

Posted
Posted

Hi guys

I saw a video in youtube...I have Profec A boost controller and I have almost done my switch...just wondering in which bung in the bag to plug it...i see three bungs- Interaction, Data-out and Option...Which of these three is the right one :blush:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Like I said, "black magic" LOL In the end,  it is what it is, and hopefully, what this here knuckle head has done is an improvement and not a hindrance Not that I actually notice any negatives now, or that I will get any seat of the pants benefits when all is said and done, but best practice says I shouldn't be pulling intake air from the hot engine bay  Famous last words: I cannot see it being any worse than what it is at the moment 🤔
    • GTSBoy
      NC MX5

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If the gases flowing in those two tracts had the same properties, you could maybe use such broscience. But the exhaust has a different composition, different normal density, different actual density (because of different normal density, and mostly because of the massively higher temperature), and different viscosity (again because of much higher temperature). Consequently, all of the fluid dynamics parameters that matter, that you calculate from these inputs, such as the Reynolds number, friction factors (for wall friction) and so on, are all incomparable.
    • GTSBoy
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      And we shall have to presume that Canada is the same?
    • joshuaho96
      Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      In the US almost everything is E10. It can't exceed 10% by much or fuel systems have trouble adapting. At the same time because MTBE, MMT, and TEL are all banned they need as much ethanol in it as possible to boost octane.
    • Kinkstaah
      NC MX5

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I was mostly jesting. In my experience (and probably only my experience) the R34 GTT physical airbox space is actually too small to flow the amount of power it wanted. By sealing the box, I made it so it could only be fed by the ducts themselves. So you can seal it up and get nice cold air which IS good, but at a certain crossover point: More Hot Air > Less Cold Air I don't think you're at this point. In my case merely ducting the hot air intake with a very focused set of ducts counteracts the fact it's in a V8 engine bay. More cold air obviously best. The solution looks great.
×
×
  • Create New...