Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive had all sorts of trouble with keeping the dump pipe nuts on, they always seem to come loose.

Recently i noticed an exhaust leak with my car, (turbo, manifold and dump pipe were all leaking), so i blamed it on the previous owner and went ahead and with installing new nissan gaskets and new dump pipe studs and these wurth exhaust nuts.

These are the Wurth nuts i have tried (top left):

05.0240.jpg

does anyone have any other suggestions, these wurth nuts have a top bit that is forced to hold the thread on tight but even they come loose

should i try a second nut on the studs? or some different types of studs?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210072-dump-pipe-nuts-keep-falling-off/
Share on other sites

wierd. we have never had loosing problems with properly torqued nuts.

what boost, turbos and dumps (or even better what temps do they get to). are the studs new (ie definately not stretched?) what gaskets

I hope you get your nuts back on dude.
yeah you dont want ya nuts to fall off

^^^what is this www.nissansilvia.com??? I tried SAU for a non 3 year old childs comment :teehee:

Edited by Hawker180
wierd. we have never had loosing problems with properly torqued nuts.

what boost, turbos and dumps (or even better what temps do they get to). are the studs new (ie definately not stretched?) what gaskets

Its a SR20DET, HKS GT-SS turbo, stock manifold, aftermarket dump, Genuine Nissan gaskets

Back in December i put in new Dump pipe studs and Nuts (all Wurth products from my local exhaust shop)

He said he hasnt had any issues with those nuts before and he said to try double nuts on them!

if double nuts (locked on to each other) don't do it nothing would. but it doesn't make sense - we run ours damn hot at times and we have never had trouble with them coming loose.

are both surfaces flat?

I checked mine and 5,000km's of daily driving later I have had 2 turbo -> manifold nuts come loose and have just lost 1 dump pipe bolt.

Its a biatch.. All torqued up correctly also.

Off to get some oem locking tabs and to sort out something for the dump pipe.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...