Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I recently put in my car for it's full service at my car dealership (who will remain anonymous for now) and along requested them to do an install of 2 gauges being oil temp & pressure since the service was going to do the oil change anyway.

Car service done, car gauges installed, car turns on, gauges go well everything is sweet, off I go down the road. About 4k's down the road in traffic (Going very slowly) I hear a "Pop" sound that sounded like I had driven over something but I felt no force from the steering wheel or movement in the car. I check my dash to see my Oil light on, I check my gauges to see oil pressure had dropped down to 0. I get the hell off the main road and onto a side street. Jump out the car and duck under the car to see oil EVERYWHERE, pop the hood and found my oil filter sitter there on the steering column and the sandwich plate dangling there by it's wires along with alot more oil everywhere.

I lift out the oil filter after it had cooled down and found the screw the connects the oil filter and plate to the engine had a good 1-2mm piece of metal still in the thread of the screw that it had ripped off from the engine bay.

I call up the dealership who calls up his engineers who will be taking another look at it tomorrow. But for now, any ideas on what caused this would be great? Faulty parts, faulty engineer install, worn out threads? Anything and everything would be great to know.

I was able to reattach the oil filter itself without the plate, the dealership guy was kind enough to bring me some oil, filled her up and is now waiting back at the dealership's shop to inspection tomorrow.

Before the "PoP!";

Car - Nissan Skyline R33 GTS-T 1996

Gauges - Autogauge Oil and Pressure + Sandwich Plate

Oil pressure - 20 PSI on idle, 60-80 PSI in rev range of around 2000-3000 (was in traffic)

Oil Temp - Still very low as the car was only on for about 10mins (was able to move the oil filter not to long after stopped without it being to hot)

Full car service was done before the gauges.

After the "PoP!";

post-30588-1205319802_thumb.jpg

Bolt with metal still inside

post-30588-1205319853_thumb.jpg

Plate Dangling after pop

post-30588-1205319869_thumb.jpg

Some of the wiring

post-30588-1205319888_thumb.jpg

Plate

post-30588-1205319906_thumb.jpg

More wiring

post-30588-1205319935_thumb.jpg

Oil Filter engine bay with part of the thread gone.

post-30588-1205319920_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/210119-blown-off-oil-filter/
Share on other sites

do nothing more and dont drive or start the car.

insist that the dealership have the car picked up via flat bed tow, and fix their bollocks up at THEIR cost!

thats some seriously dodgy shit, even if it was a part failure and not a workmanship issue, the workshop still has to stand by the issue and warrenty it.

you'll be lucky if there is no spun bearings....

This looks exactly the same as what happened to my mate. Looks like the same sandwich plate too.

The reason this has happened is that the bronze coloured adaptor has been overtightened. As it is tightened it tries to squash the sandwich plate but can't, obivously the next weakest point will go. Unfotunately this is the factory thread that the oil filter attaches to.

It is easily solved though as the oil filter thread and flange is actually bolted to the block and not part of it. You should be able to pick one up from a wreckers etc. It is a bit of a pain to swap it over I think but it shouldn't have caused any damage to the engine. My mates one came off at full boost in second gear. As soon as we heard it blast off and looked in the rear view mirror the engine was shut off.

I think he may have ended up getting another sandwich plate but I will try and confirm that.

Good Luck.

Edited by Fry_33

The issue is actually with the adapter, more so than the over tightening. You can see it only has about 2 turns on there which is no where near enough when you tighten it up as all the strain is on the last 4-5mm of the thread, rather than over 15-20mm.

You can see how much thread is left, more than enough to still get an oil filter on there from what you've said.

They should have picked that it wasn't right and not done it in the first place. I know of guys on other forums who immediately picked up this issue when installing other china oil products, and they aren't professionals.

Do not reinstall that sandwich plate, it's rubbish.

I had the exact same thing happen to me (funny thing is the sandwich plates looks identical to the one I tried).....luckily it happened as I was installing it.

I was able to screw the filter back on with out the sandwich plate. and just bought a relocation kit and oil cooler.

The kit has the threads for gauge senders where the Oil filter attaches too.

And with the price of oil cooler/relocation kits these days its well worth it.

ANdrew

i don't have no idea why people over tighten oil filters? :( ( :)

In this case it is not a case of overtightening the filter. You need the adaptor to be fairly tight otherwise every time you take the filter off the adaptor will come with it and make extra mess. I think the main problem with this kit is the bronze adaptor. I think the machining of them would probably be to the correct specs but they must coat the metal in the bronze material. Just to get my mates oil filter to screw on properly we needed to run the thread over a wire brush on a bench grinder. We should have stopped there but hindsight is a MF and you don't always think about these things when you are doing the job.

From memory there was enough thread on this adaptor but the overtightening of it literally tears the standard oil filter mounting thread apart as it must be a weaker metal.

I think my mate was able to screw a filter onto what was left of the standard thread, slam in some oil and drive it to a close workshop.

Unfortunately the sandwich plates appear to be one of those items which fall into the 'you get what you pay for category'.

Edited by Fry_33
  • 4 weeks later...

Thanks for everyone's input, I got myself a Greddy Filter and got it on.

One quick question though, what kind of PSI should be running through when you doing around 4000rpm.. and what is the MAX psi I should be seeing?

As people have said it's not the fault of the workshop because you provided the part that caused the failure. When i installed mine i found the same problem with one kit so i order another kit that was also a cheapy and that one had a longer adapter fitting. I'm in the process of removing the sandwich plate and installing a removal block that completely removes the oil filter assembly and then remote mounting the filter. The SR boys have been doing it this way for quite a while because of the problem that you encountered with the snapping of the cast oil filter fitting.

Here's a picture of the SR one, my brother (GROWLY Custom Machining) and i designed the one for my CA18 and made it on his CNC machine centre because no one in the world made them and it'll be finished this Sunday (just have to cut the o-ring grove).

SR BRACKET

SR20_ADAPTOR_1.jpg

SR20_ADAPTOR_2.jpg

CA BRACKET

Image553.jpg

Image557.jpg

Image582.jpg

Edited by D_stirls
  • 3 months later...

Shit i just bought an autogauge oil pressure gauge including the sandwich plate too from Just Jap. Is there anyone else that has this combo installed without a problem? Whats a good brand sandwich plate to get? Greddy, the only one?

The sandwich plate is probably fine you just need the thread on the bronze adapter to be longer/deeper. A fittings shop like enzed might be able to match something up that will work for you but I wouldnt bet on it.

But to be safe I would just get a trust/grex kit. Just installed one the other day on my 25 and cannot fault it.

Edited by rinmak
But to be safe I would just get a trust/grex kit. Just installed one the other day on my 25 and cannot fault it.

Any idea who sells them and how much? Also how much do filter relocation kits cost?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...